Could be a stupid question... But I am going to ask anyway.

[OcoeeG]

I am going to be building a small timber frame starting towards the end of the summer.  I have yet to get any books to start reading cause I am presently not living in the US and timber frame books in English are impossible to get in Colombia.  I might have to bite the bullet and pay the premium to have Amazon send me a few down here. But for now I am just going to rely on the WEALTH of knowledge that is this forum and its members. 

Here is my question... 
I want my timber frame to look like a timber frame from the inside and the outside.  Does anyone stick frame WITHIN the large timbers exposing them to both the inside and the outside?  The cabin will be in extreme southeast TN so I will not have to insulate for blistering cold winters, I suppose the blistering hot summers are more of a concern.  But with proper placement of the timber frame under some nice shady deciduous trees it might not be that bad.  I figured I could frame inside the timbers with 2x4's and still be able to get 2" rigid foam and maybe 1 or 2 layers of that foil backed thinner stuff as well.  Not sure what the R rating on that would be I guess I could research that as well to determine if that is enough. 

Does this sound sane?  I would love some input of why this could or could not work.  Is it bad to expose the timbers to the elements if they are properly protected? 

My plan is to use oak timbers, mill them this late summer, cut them in the fall and raise the frame by the end of the year, roof it and let them dry in place.  Maybe start drying it in after the first of the year.  Might consider not heating the space that winter if it would help them dry more evenly. 

I guess that is now my biggest concern is the building green/drying process.  There seems to be so much mixed info. on what is the best way to deal with the drying process.  I am not worried about checking as I consider it character in the wood I just don't want it to get too bad.  So any info on that would be appreciated too. I have read every post about building green and drying wood I can find and I still do not know what the answer is to that one. 

Thanks for all for all of the knowledge you guys have accumulated here for us newbies.  I am honored to be a part of the forum.  You will see me in the Sawmill forum as well as I am in the market for a mill as soon as I get stateside in June.  If I can't find a good used one I am thinking about the Ez jr. 

THanks in advance!
Chris G

[Jim_Rogers]

Chris:
Welcome to the forum.
What you're asking about is called "infill" that is the wall materials are put in line with the wall or gable end bent.
The problem with doing this is that the timbers are going to shrink as they dry out. And this shrinkage is going to cause gaps. Where the gap is and how you handle it, and by handle it I mean prepare for it, is the question.

There have been frames cut and erected here in the USA that look like the frames from England where you see the frame inside and out.

The Holder brothers of Monroe Georgia did one a few years ago.
The cut grooves in the posts and beams for the wall panel to slide into. That way the panel would "float" when the timbers shrink.
Here is a link to their gallery of pictures.
http://www.holderbros.com/project/details/15-Sixteenth-Century-English-Cottage
I believe this house was constructed in WV.
But I'm not totally sure.

Keep reading and keep asking questions.
And around here, there are no stupid questions, just questions that need answers.

Jim Rogers

[LeeB]

Not a stupid question at all and answers the same question for me as well. How much shrinkage could one expect in say, an 8" beam? I know it will vary with species.

[Raider Bill]

Welcome Chris!

[jueston]

i have no practical experience, but i remember reading somewhere that in an 8 inch timber you should expect a half inch of shrinkage, but maybe someone who has built an oak frame will know from experience every wood is different and drys differently.

and welcome to the forum

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

First off Welcome to The Forum Chris  ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) and there is never a stupid question around here  ;) :D ;D ;D

Hardwoods will shrink more and be more reactive in general but also stronger than softwoods but softwood has its uses also I have built post and beam out off both in the past and would be happy to work with either Mate ;)

Regards Chris

[Jim_Rogers]

i have no practical experience, but i remember reading somewhere that in an 8 inch timber you should expect a half inch of shrinkage, but maybe someone who has built an oak frame will know from experience every wood is different and drys differently.

and welcome to the forum

I thought that this amount (1/2") was way too much. So, I called a local timber framer who specializes in cutting oak frames. He said that this amount is true.

Also, if you do a google search for Wood Handbook, and get to the site there is a chart of percents in chapter 4 on page 4-6 that gives the percent of shrinkage by radial, tangential, and volumetric. That means in order to get actual shrinkage amount in fractions of an inch you'll have to do some math to figure it out.

Hope that helps.

Jim Rogers

PS. that is shrinkage from green to oven dry weight.

[beenthere]

Planning for 1/2" shrinkage is good, whether it actually ends up 1/2" would remain to be seen.