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Do not understand how to buy a chainsaw

Started by opticsguy, May 10, 2016, 09:40:36 AM

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opticsguy

OK, So have owned and used my Stihl 026 for 20+ years and has a 24 inch bar. A 24" bar in this saw is certainly it's limit but a good saw for 95% of my cutting.  However, on occasion it would be nice to have a stronger saw with a longer bar.  I am thinking of a saw to handle about a 36" bar.  Went shopping for a bigger saw, they all seem to come with 20" bars and a longer bar with chain (28", 30", etc) adds an additional $140 to the price.  Rental saws all seem to have 20" bars only.  Craigslist ads show used saws at what looks like almost new prices.  So, how does one purchase a saw just powerful enough to run a longer bar and not break the bank?  No, I do not have a specific budget, just thinking about options. 
Oh, almost forgot, this saw would be used for the occasional cutting of larger diameter trees.  Yes, that 44" diameter tree is calling me..........................
Thanks for your guidance and wisdom.
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

mad murdock

the occasional 44" tree can essily be cut with a 24" bar, if you are consistently in bigger wood say 30" + then i would say it could be worth the effort to go bigger on a saw, but to get a saw that will handle a 30"+ bar you will have to go 70cc and preferably 80cc+ which in any kind of decent condition will probaly cost you 500 or more used with B&C. With proper technique you can cut a tree 2 1/2 times bar length in dia. No sense in getting big cc saw unless the wood you are in averages large enough size to warrant it, IMO.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

opticsguy

Thank you for your reply.  My 026 with the 24" bar is certainly not strong enough to cut a standing 44" tree, at least not strong enough to last very long and thus the search for a stronger saw.
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

Straightgrain

X2 on Mad Murdock's points.

I would add "a word" on preventing buyer's remorse..... avoid buying used saws unless they are

being sold by a reputable dealer or somebody you trust.
"We fight for and against not men and things as they are, but for and against the caricatures we make of them". Joseph Schumpeter

starmac

Unless you run across someone that has a big saw with a 36 in bar, that is trying to get rid of it, there is just no cheap way to get a new one. My dealer sells powerheads and will usually swap a 20 inch bar for a 28 for a nominal fee, but a 36 in bar is expensive, not too mention a powerhead that will realistically pull a 36 in bar is also expensive.
I tend to think most saws that would pull a 36 incher, would be coming with a 24 minimum,maybe even a 28, so the upgrade should not be terrible.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Ianab

The problem isn't cutting  44" trees with a 24" bar, that's pretty straight forward.

The problem is running a 24" bar on a 50cc saw, and expecting it to cut well with the bar buried in a log. It's going to struggle, bog down, and be very frustrating to use. (And wear your saw out)

Get a good 70(ish) cc saw, put a regular 24" bar on that, it will be a pleasure to use, and handle 44" trees with ease.

But if you put a 36" bar on that same saw, and you are back to being underpowered. And you still have to go around and cut from the other side anyway.

So I'm just suggesting you only really need a slightly bigger power head, and you don't need to waste $$ on an oversize bar and chain(s).
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

sandsawmill14

i can only speak for the stihl dealers around here but all commercial grade saws 50-60 cc on up are priced with a 20" bar and it seems like the price increase is about 20 bucks per size you go up  :) i dont know about the other brands or dealers :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

motohed

You can run a full skip chain and get away with a 60 cc saw , if it's only on ocasion . other than that , I would be looking for an 80cc saw or above to do full time cutting of the size , you are asking about . If you do a dozen trees a year go 60cc , a little more than a dozen go 70cc , more than that go a minimum of 80cc , I prefer more , but the saw weight is exponential .

PineHill4488

My MS660 came with a 24" bar, I use it for felling and bucking, the 36" bar stays in the Alaskan mill.
Fall 2013 purchased Stihl MS 660 and an Alaskan 36" mill, am happy with the setup, hobbyist not a volume producer, have milled oak, hickory, yellow pine, and power poles.

sandsawmill14

i would get a 441 or 460 and a 28" bar unless you have some really big timber (60"+) a 70 cc saw will run a 28" good that is all the bar you need for the size timber you mentioned and you can put a 20 or 24 bar on it and you will LOVE it in the smaller wood around 20"-30" ;D   the guys production felling would want a 90cc i would imagine for speed but if thats not your what your doing a 70cc is a little lighter on the back and on the wallet :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

opticsguy

OP here.  Really, thanks for the very excellent replies, sure clarifies what I really need.  So, a larger saw (70cc)and a 24-28" bar should do what I need.  You guys are the best!!!
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

sandsawmill14

hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

4x4American

Check out "the chainsaw guy" on youtube..you might live nearby to him and he's always got nice used saws in.  I'm sure you're gonna pay for em but he goes right through em I do believe.  And with that I'm sure he guarantees em, at least til you walk out the door lol.  Btw, I think the dealers put on small bars to make them seem cheaper.  You could always buy the saw with a say 24" bar and then get a cheaper aftermarket bar for the bigger jobs.  Eh?
Boy, back in my day..

DelawhereJoe

If your looking for a new larger saw and have a more limited budget the echo cs 800p could be the saw for you. If you have an echo dealer around, I dont think you want to order it from the home depot, but you could. It will run a 24"-36" b&c and with my budget it would be the one I could more easily afford. I would much rather have a Stihl tho.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

mad murdock

Quote from: 4x4American on May 11, 2016, 07:05:01 AM
Check out "the chainsaw guy" on youtube..you might live nearby to him and he's always got nice used saws in.  I'm sure you're gonna pay for em but he goes right through em I do believe.  And with that I'm sure he guarantees em, at least til you walk out the door lol. 
Rich Dugan is the guy on those "shop talk" videos.  He runs the saw shop in Myrtle Creek OR south of Roseburg.  He is a good guy and runs probably one of the best "old school" bonafide saw shops in this part of the country anyway.  He deals Stihl and Husky, but he has a wicked stable of "hotsaws" of different flavors.  He keeps them around the shop there.  The one I really like is an Alcohol burning McC 101 Hotsaw, that is one mean saw.  His saws that he lists on ebay are gone through right, and he stands behind them, or he wont sell it.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

opticsguy

OP here again.  Lots of reading and thinking and finally a trip to a different Stihl Dealer. The advice I got from this dealer was outstanding!! After listening to my ideas and wants and needs I am seriously looking at the Stihl MS391.  64cc and 13+ pounds.  Comes with a 24" bar and he will move me up to a 28" bar for $10.  Comes with a card for 20 re-sharpening's.  Wont be using this saw too much but looks like a good saw for my limited "big tree" cutting and who knows, maybe a lot more use than I think.
Also, he recommended I replace the 24" bar on my old 026 with a 20" bar which would make it a much easier to use saw.
Thanks again for all the good advice!!
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

DelawhereJoe

Put out the extra $100 and get the 362 c-m....you will be much happier with a more powerful pro grade saw.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

motohed

I would also go for the 362 , it's probly lighter and more powerful . Thats the best I can say , without going to the spec sheets . I would do an 18 inch bar on the 026 260 version , you will get better chain speed and faster cuts .

motohed

I checked the ms362cm is slightly more HP and it's a 60cc saw , and it's 1 LBS lighter . The 391 is a 64cc saw with less HP , and weighs a pound more , if I was going for strictly Stihl at that point, it would be the MS 461 over 391 . The pro saw will out last the farm saw by a long shot , and there will be more used parts available in the future because more will be sold . The new parts will also be available longer for the pro saws . JMHO

opticsguy

OP here.  Thanks again for all the recommendations.  I purchased the 391, already over my budget.  I do not need a pro saw.  So far, have made 8 cuts which comes out about $75 per cut....... The bigger pro saws were simply more than I needed.  The 391 performs excellently with the 28" bar.  My band mill will take up to a 29" log, so this comes out to be a good combo for me.
The recommendation of an 18" bar for my 026, sounds like a good idea.
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

Ianab

Fair call.  The 391 is a decent enough saw, designed for part time use by farmers and firewood cutters etc. It should give years of faithful part time service.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

opticsguy

I felled that 44" tree yesterday, my goal was the top half of the tree which was twisting and turning and looked like some awesome slabs could come out of the tree (curved benches).  Well after landing on the ground with the Earth shaking, I found the upper "smaller" part of the tree is anywhere from 34" up to 48" depending on orientation.  so much for cutting on my limited 29" mill.  So, I have ordered up a ripping chain and try my hand at yet another new hobby.   This whole thing is getting out of hand.............. and lots of hard work and fun!!
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

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