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038 Magnum II

Started by 421Altered, November 10, 2019, 09:47:19 PM

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421Altered

I recently got a bunch of older Stihl saws when I helped a friend clean out a building that belonged to a Stihl dealership that had closed down.  All of the saws that I got were in storage for use as parts saws.  Some had more parts missing that others.  But one is a Stihl 038 magnum II saw, power head only.  It has serial number 114641319. It looks like it has had a rough former life.  However, the piston, rings, and cylinder look good, and it has a blue spark.  I've not tried to start it as it's missing the muffler.  Also, the tank/handle shows signs of being run over by a vehicle or something really pushed it bad.  Nothing is broken on it, but, the front handle is out of line with the bottom of the saw by about 3/4 of an inch.  Also, the brake handle goes all the way forward before it trips, so, something not right there either.  There is a small black wire that goes from a small black box mounted above the coil to the start switch, I think this may be the kill switch wire, it's almost frayed in two.  But, what is the small black box mounted above the coil?  It also has a Bing carb on it.  My question to you guys, is this saw worth spending the money on to get it running?

Pine Ridge

I owned an 038 in the early 1990s, i used it as a backup to my 064 and to buck logs at the log pile. It always started and run good. Mine wasn't a magnum, i think it was a super. If the topend is good on it you could find parts to fix the rest of it, all depends on how bad you want an 038. If you do decide to fix it you should have a good reliable saw that will cut pretty good for many years.
Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

Al_Smith

That saw is one of Stihls best ever made in my opinion .You can find the kits to rebuild the Bing carb which at one time the only place was a Srihl dealer .Parts are available both OEM and after market plus good used .
The 038 mag was taken off the market because it could not satisfy EPA emissions and was replaced with the 044 which also now is out of the line up .
So rather than babble on for half a page in my opinion it's well worth restoring .BTW I have 2 Mags .One stock that spent over 20 years of a hard life in service for a tree company .Another made in Brazil which is souped up and does extremely well .Plus an 038 AV 60 cc that has been worked over too .

Firewoodjoe

That's one saw I don't own is a Stihl. Not to say I wouldn't if the price was right.

Al_Smith

Normally the popularity  of brands are just what is locally available .Word has it another popular brand that also sells orange saws tried a power play years ago and the local dealers never forgave them .Places like Lowes and TSC do however but not the "pro" models .The closest dealer for that brand is 40 miles away and doesn't carry that much in parts stock .I get my parts  from a dealer in North Carolina .

Pine Ridge

I used to run stihls, had some very good saws, 064, 044, 038, 024. Stihl products here are priced higher than husqvarna. 462 stihl is close to $200 dollars higher than a 372xp here. If stihl still made the 064 i wouldn't have had a reason to become a husqvarna owner, i loved them 064 stihls. Both brands make good saws and if i didn't have one brand i'd have the other. 044 stihl was an excellent saw too, i owned a couple of them.
Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

Al_Smith

I've heard though others that in high impact logging like the PNW Stihl is very competitive with the prices .In this area there is no competition but the prices could vary slightly between dealers .Doesn't affect me,tight wad you know,no new saws for Al . :D

lxskllr

I haven't checked full product lines, but around here Husqvarna and Stihl are close enough in price to not matter. One exception is brushcutters. My 545fr was $200-$400 less than a comparable Stihl.


edit:
I love my Stihls, and feel I got what I paid for, but my fondest feelings are towards my echos. I feel like they gave me more than I paid for. I think they're the best bargain in a quality saw going.

421Altered

Ok guys.  I got my 038 mag II running the other day, but, it only runs about 30 seconds and stops.  So, I'm replacing the fuel line and filter, and the rubber air intake tube between the carb and the cylinder, and the pulse line.  But, my local Stihl dealer says it doesn't have a regular pulse line like other Stihls.  He says the pulse line is inside the rubber air intake tube from the cylinder to the carb.  But, when I look I can see a tiny tube from the cylinder to the top of the rubber air intake tube where it goes into the rear of the carb.  Will someone please tell me what I have and how to fix it, I mean the pulse tube line.

Mad Professor

Quote from: 421Altered on November 18, 2019, 10:28:08 PM
Ok guys.  I got my 038 mag II running the other day, but, it only runs about 30 seconds and stops.  So, I'm replacing the fuel line and filter, and the rubber air intake tube between the carb and the cylinder, and the pulse line.  But, my local Stihl dealer says it doesn't have a regular pulse line like other Stihls.  He says the pulse line is inside the rubber air intake tube from the cylinder to the carb.  But, when I look I can see a tiny tube from the cylinder to the top of the rubber air intake tube where it goes into the rear of the carb.  Will someone please tell me what I have and how to fix it, I mean the pulse tube line.
It uses a piece of Hose 3.1x5.7x102mm.
You need the correct type of tubing that wont collapse under vac or get rotted by mix.
Stihl part # is 0000 930 2803 for a 1M length.  Other tubing will probably work , keeping in mind the above remarks

Al_Smith

Another little tiny bit of info .The weak link in an otherwise bullet proof saw is the annular buffer (anti vibration mount ) .left hand side upper .What happens is the rubber degrades and allows the engine to rock up on it's mounts which tears the intake boot and/or the impulse line .
You can't tell either one is torn because the point of failure will be on the bottom side .About the only way is to remove and inspect .
I've seen this happen twice .The first one took me a long time to figure out .The second not so long .

421Altered

Thanks so much Mad  Professor for that info on the line, size and Stihl part number!  Thanks so much also to Al Smith for the info on the rear upper AV mount!  This is the kind of info that I need to get the old saws that I got from the dealer close out back to running condition.  I also got an 084 at the same place that had been run over, since it is a little bigger, I could see the av mount that Al is talking about, it took a real beating when it was run over.  Thanks again to your both!!

Mad Professor

Quote from: Al_Smith on November 19, 2019, 07:47:41 AM
Another little tiny bit of info .The weak link in an otherwise bullet proof saw is the annular buffer (anti vibration mount ) .left hand side upper .What happens is the rubber degrades and allows the engine to rock up on it's mounts which tears the intake boot and/or the impulse line .
You can't tell either one is torn because the point of failure will be on the bottom side .About the only way is to remove and inspect .
I've seen this happen twice .The first one took me a long time to figure out .The second not so long .
Al I've seen that too.
Another thing that happens when the AV mounts wear out is it will pinch off the coil wire.  Left long enough it will wear off insulation and make a short.  The short can be frustrating to diagnose as it first starts happening when in a cut.  Saw will start and run, rev up fine, but misses in a cut.

Al_Smith

Well some times  these little darlins get an attitude .You just have to walk away until clearer heads prevail .

421Altered

 After replacing the carb boot,  pulse line and fuel line and filter, it starts and ran for a couple of minutes, then wouldn't take the throtte.  So, I checked and found tank vent inside the tank clogged with debris.  Fixed that, and now it runs good.  But, I have discovered that it has a 1125 series clutch cover.  Will that work on my 1119 series, 038 magnum II?

Al_Smith

I can't rattle off part numbers unless I have parts list in front of me .Having said that one restoration I needed a cover .I used an 024 instead of the one listed for the 038 for the simple reason E-bay wanted 3 times the money and the cover works fine .
As I recall the only difference was one cover had Stihl in raised letters die cast into the part and one had nothing .

421Altered

Thanks Al, that's what I needed to know!!

421Altered

Ok guys.  I've been reading all I can on this site about bar length's.  I've got my 038 Mag II running and now I want two bar's and chains to fit each of them.  For my longer bar, I will only be cutting pine, and the shorter bar, only oak or other hardwoods. Now my question is what length of bar's do I need for each?  

lxskllr

When my 362 was my big saw, I had a 25" bar for it. Not ideal, but it worked fine. I now have a 20" light bar on it, and I think that's close to ideal. Somewhere in that range maybe. A 28" with a skip chain might be doable also if you need that extra length.

Al_Smith

Regarding bar lengths although I don't need it much I have a 32" .One of my 038 Mags has been modified it does very well running full comp or skip chain .I've never had the need to use my stock Mag on anything longer than 24" and usually just stay with a 20" .Quite frankly the stock version doesn't see much action .I rebuilt it  after it had spent 20 hard years in service for tree company ,they wounded it but they couldn't kill it. :D

Pine Ridge

A 20" bar is what i had on mine cutting hardwood, i never ran a longer bar on it so i can't advise on that but it worked great with the 20 incher.
Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

421Altered

Thanks to all that have replied on the bar length's.  That's the kind of info that I need.  I think I need to rebuild the Bing 48 A 101 A carb that is on it.  I haven't checked but, I think the Stihl kit is high $.  But, I've thought about a new carb, and all the one's I've seen look different than mine.  The ones that I have seen online, look like they a metal tube out the top plate of the carb.  Mine does not have that.  What is that tube for?  Any advice, help here would be appreciated.

Mad Professor

Quote from: 421Altered on November 26, 2019, 09:28:06 PM
Thanks to all that have replied on the bar length's.  That's the kind of info that I need.  I think I need to rebuild the Bing 48 A 101 A carb that is on it.  I haven't checked but, I think the Stihl kit is high $.  But, I've thought about a new carb, and all the one's I've seen look different than mine.  The ones that I have seen online, look like they a metal tube out the top plate of the carb.  Mine does not have that.  What is that tube for?  Any advice, help here would be appreciated.
Probably carbs that fit a MS380.  I think they have compensator carbs. 
If it's similar to 026 036 carbs you just change out the plate cover.
I think there are sources of bing kits that are not $$$

Al_Smith

Oregon makes a Bing kit .---Google or go to flea bay .

421Altered

Actually I think I need a new carb as my carb throttle shaft is worn pretty badly.  I've seen the pics of the Bing 48 online, but, all of those have a cast in metal tube on the bottom plate.  What connects here?  Mine doen't have that, just a solid plate.  Could I plug that hole and just bypass that?

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