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resawing antique beams

Started by rconkie, February 07, 2016, 01:19:51 AM

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rconkie

I recently come across a 12×12 antique beam that was supposedly milled in the late 1800's and was part of a building that once was located in downtown Fort Smith Arkansas. I've never sawn into anything like this until now. And as I was nearly through my second board my blade took a hard drive down. This was the result of the pitch build up on my bandmill blade. So I need some input from you all on how I can keep this from happening and do any of you know a good value to place on lumber like this? The beam is southern yellow pine 12 wide, the grains are bold and beautiful and have darkened to a deep reddish yellow color. I put this cut on standby to gather advice and information. I really want to get this beam resawn, anyone, everyone lets hear from you

xlogger

I found out cutting some that it takes diesel on blade to keep it clean and look at the blade after each cut to make sure it's clean. I've had to stay back from the blade and with my axe and scrape some build up off blade while it running also, be careful doing that.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

homesteader1972

Get a spray bottle and fill with diesel You can give it a squirt or two while in the cut. If your careful, you can spray the bottom of the band too if its getting pitchy. Are you using new bands? I would use a new band on such a nice project.
Woodmizer LT40HD20G

kelLOGg

I have cut old beams, too and had buildup problems. Here's an old link to my solution which is still in use. https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,58022.msg843717.html#msg843717

I can still get buildup on the tip of the teeth in wide oak but never on the body for any species.
Bob




Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

xlogger

I think that the beams Bob (KelLOGg) was talking about are the ones we both cut for the same guy. Don't know about Bob but I hope I never have to deal with them again. They where the hardest cutting I've ever done. If you ever cut any for anyone be sure to charge by the hour and for damage blades.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

kelLOGg

Ricky (xlogger), I had my new blade oiler system in place for those beams but it was no help with the nails ;D >:(.
The customer supposedly pulled all the nails before I sawed. Let's just saw that half of my pay after 8 hours was blade charge for hitting those nails ;)
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

slider

If you are going to saw reclaimed beams you must factor in the metal strikes regardless of what the customer said.There will be the rogue nail in some of them that seems to appear just after you have changed to a new band.
al glenn

terrifictimbersllc

I saw a lot of these for a commercial customer.  I use 4 degree WM .045/1-1/4 bands and 5 oz cascade gel in 5 gal water.  Usually I'll have the lube on a fast pulse and it's barely needed.  However, and sometimes I can see it at the end of the beam (helps to fresh trim a bit off), it will be like a candlestick.  And not necessarily all along the beam.  It is costly to have a blade dive or climb.

I'll watch for any change in tension, and through sound and feel be aware of any change in vibration during the cut, or buildup on the blade which I can sometimes hear or feel beginning. And also, sight along the kerf to see that cutting is straight.  In any waxy questionable area, turn the lube on full.   My mixture usually keeps buildup from occurring.  OR if some has occurred, run the band with lube full on to get it clean before proceeding either out of or in the cut.

When it's really bad, I can scrape it off the band with a utility knife having a new blade.  Not too hard.

I haven't used diesel and do realize it is a good option, perhaps I'll pack a spray bottle there next time.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

rconkie

I'll try out those suggestion. Anyone know what kind of value to place on lumber like this?  Trying to decide if sawing it will be worth the expense???

beenthere

No value if there is no buyer.

So need to find a buyer interested in "antique" lumber from antique beams.

Might be worth seeking that buyer through some advertising before cutting into lumber, then you will have a better idea what to saw out of them.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Solomon

If you have rubber, neoprene, silicone or other similar type band wheel tires,  diesel fuel is not the greatest idea, you can likely get by with it for one beam but if you make a habbit of it, you tires will start to disolve.   That was a reall selling point for me buying my mill , it is steel blade on steel band wheels , allowing me to use diesel all the time.  Subsequently, I have never had an issue with sap or pitch on my blades.
  You have a really nice piece of lumber there, should definatly be a money maker for you.  👍  👁
Time and Money,  If you have the one, you rarely have the other.

The Path to Salvation is narrow, and the path to damnnation is wide.

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