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Little helpful suggestion if I may Don, and you may already be doing it. A stripping/sorting operation like that works out better in the long run if some boxing/labeling is done with it. At least by model. So many times years ago I'd pick up a part and be thinking, "I knew what this was when I set it here."
Growing up in the Midwest, on a farm that raised a fare amount of corn, I find your statement totally ignorant and uncalled for.
The other thing Don, is if you have the room is to store the carcasses without stripping them. Sounds good in theory, but once the start building up, ya gotta thin them out.Depends on the saw too. On some chassis, like 372's and Jonny 670's, I can pick up every single screw and know exactly where it goes. Something like an L65, I have to label everything.
Depends on the saw too. On some chassis, like 372's and Jonny 670's, I can pick up every single screw and know exactly where it goes. Something like an L65, I have to label everything.
Quote from: Spike60 on January 24, 2023, 08:43:45 PM Depends on the saw too. On some chassis, like 372's and Jonny 670's, I can pick up every single screw and know exactly where it goes. Something like an L65, I have to label everything. It's whatever a person is used to .I know next to nothing about J-reds but on a 10 series McCulloch or a 200T Stihl I can almost do it blind folded .On the later it's hard to say how many I've worked on mostly seal and bearing changes which is what killed most of them .That's an age old thing of an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure because given enough run time that's where a failure will happen .
I came up with a perfect solution for storing old saws. Didnt I @chet !
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