Cat 525b

skidunk · January 17, 2020, 03:06:07 PM

:( My 525b broke at the "hinge" point last week. Has anyone ever encountered this issue and can this thing be fixed? I have my own ideas but I thought I would ask here and see what the rest of the community has to say or has done in this regard, where to find ears, etc. would be a great help, how to repair another! Thanks loads, Rich

Bandmill Bandit · January 17, 2020, 04:06:29 PM

Ive seen it once but NOT on a Cat. Was an 87 timberjack if I remember right. The owner (my land lord at the time) took it to local bridge builder that built logging road bridges and other logging equipment to get it fixed. Was down for 2 days for welding/rebuild repair and few more waiting for bushings, seals and hydraulic parts. Was back in the bush in 2 weeks. Tmberjack covered the total cost of the repair. The unit was just over a year old when it happened. Attributed to some sub par welding.

tacks Y · January 18, 2020, 08:20:37 AM

A GOOD fab weld shop can make it right. Out in the field? Chain it together so it does not break more or turn and drag it out.

chevytaHOE5674 · January 18, 2020, 09:05:23 AM

Fixable for the right guy. Either using those ears or having new made. To get it out of the woods I would jack/come-along/hammer/chain it back somewhat into place and weld it back together. Then limb it out.

Gary_C · January 18, 2020, 10:06:54 AM

There is a repair shop in Tigerton, WI called Berg Service and Repair that has a bunch of U Tube videos of similar repairs. So it can be fixed but it may not be cheap. Depending on age of machine and cause of the failure (bad weld, abuse, etc) you may first want to talk to Cat. Those pictures do not paint a good picture of those Cat machines.

kiko · January 18, 2020, 12:19:14 PM

This would be the most proper way to repair..

BargeMonkey · January 18, 2020, 05:17:02 PM

This man is right.... ☝️☝️☝️ yeah it could be fixed but it's never right and if you go to sell it and someone sees it's been broken they will run. That's the cleanest, fastest way, swap it over and go back to work.

chevytaHOE5674 · January 18, 2020, 10:14:01 PM

If you can find a frame section like Kiko posted that maybe the easiest.

As for welding it "never being right" I disagree. A good welder will make it look good and it will be as good or better than stock. Done right new ears welded to the frame, plated and gusseted up it will be good as new. Not something most backyard mechanics should tackle though.

Buddy just had the same parts torched off, reproduced, and welded onto his forwarder. And if he didn't tell you 99% of people would never know it was repaired.

BargeMonkey · January 18, 2020, 11:16:38 PM

Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on January 18, 2020, 10:14:01 PM
If you can find a frame section like Kiko posted that maybe the easiest.

As for welding it "never being right" I disagree. Not something most backyard mechanics should tackle though.

That's not just "welding", you want someone good. Not Jim-bobs repair service in the garage with a 30pk of PBR, I've seen those repairs 🤣 and they haunt the machine forever. Price it both ways, if the weld is 2/3 a frame I would go with the frame.

donbj · January 18, 2020, 11:20:35 PM

This type of repair if welded back together has to have the parts line bored to make sure pins and pin bosses are in line and parallel to each other. If not it will wear in short order. I worked in an open pit mine for many years and all these types of repairs and rebuilds were line bored for accuracy.

skidunk · January 19, 2020, 10:14:09 AM

My guys have largely got it back together enough to get it out of the woods. Thanks for the tips, it really helps! Will keep you all apprised! As to line boring, if we weld new ears on I am working on the theory that I can align it if i use a single pin to align the top and bottom at the same time! A big concern is whether the steering cylinder ends were welded on or threaded, hard to tell. I'm actually not there, on vacation but isn't that when stuff happens! We shall see, thanks again!

kiko · January 19, 2020, 11:56:04 AM

Don't forget that fuel tank is plastic. With that much aheatin and abeatin the control valve and tank might have to be removed. At least there is no winch in this equation. Just in case you end up in this situation, the trick to getting the tank out without damage is patience and a long tip air blower. All the debris that has packed in around the tank must be cleaned out before trying to lift the tank. If still there , there is a fuel drain hose wrapped up and secured just behind the center joint, also there is a cross over hose that must be removed under the rear most belly because the tank saddles over the drive line. As far as those cylinders go, the rod end and rod were originally one piece, they might actually be welded with a good bevel on the rod end. But because the bevel will require removing some of the chrome ,make sure the weld area does not try to go into the gland when cylinder is collapsed. And cover the rest of the rod when welding to keep weld splatter from damaging and more of the chrome.

chevytaHOE5674 · January 19, 2020, 12:33:17 PM

In my experience even using a long dowel to align the two bore you will want to have them line bored. With as much heat as will be placed on those areas during welding some movement will happen.

thecfarm · January 19, 2020, 12:36:34 PM

Please show on some finished pictures.

Bandmill Bandit · January 19, 2020, 12:56:32 PM

Quote from: BargeMonkey on January 18, 2020, 11:16:38 PM
Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on January 18, 2020, 10:14:01 PM
If you can find a frame section like Kiko posted that maybe the easiest.

As for welding it "never being right" I disagree. Not something most backyard mechanics should tackle though.
That's not just "welding", you want someone good. Not Jim-bobs repair service in the garage with a 30pk of PBR, I've seen those repairs 🤣 and they haunt the machine forever. Price it both ways, if the weld is 2/3 a frame I would go with the frame.

For sure not just welding! Must be a complete rebuild from new material OR get new components from Cat it they are still available or a wrecker for good used. A proper build will not be cheaper than new parts but some times a custom new build is the only way to fix older iron for that kind of a failure.
Here's a link to a 05 525B that being disasembled at Farley Tractor.
https://fraleytractor.com/dismantled/cat-525b-3kz

skidunk · January 27, 2020, 08:09:30 PM

My buddy is a welder at a nuclear plant, that doesn't make a fix any easier! Kiko, where did you find those section pictures, I can't seem to find too many, if any, for sale! Found a burned up machine but that's not a real biggie unless someone has a concern? Either way this is going to be a project!

barbender · January 28, 2020, 01:07:24 AM

Burned iron is bad, imo.

802logger2 · July 11, 2020, 03:36:34 PM

Quote from: skidunk on January 27, 2020, 08:09:30 PM
My buddy is a welder at a nuclear plant, that doesn't make a fix any easier! Kiko, where did you find those section pictures, I can't seem to find too many, if any, for sale! Found a burned up machine but that's not a real biggie unless someone has a concern? Either way this is going to be a project!

Ever find the rear section or get it fixed yet? No insurance?