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How to dry and saw a 8" x 5"x9'4" poplar cant or beam

Started by bikedude73, February 22, 2012, 08:00:04 PM

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bikedude73

I have a job to cut dry and install a shelf or mantel and they do not want any cracks or bowing or checking.  I am trying to ask the best way to cut and dry this log to come out with the desired outcome.  Any and all help is wonderful Thanks

beenthere

Saw it 4/4, then dry, then plane and then glue it back together to the desired thickness and width. Pick the best figured wood for the top and/or edges.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

WDH

I agree with BT.  There is no way that you will dry a cant that size without splits or checks unless you have specialized kiln equipment. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

True North

If I remember right, I think Jeff showed how to use relief cuts to solve some of the splitting problems. I passed his advice on to someone who bought a cedar mantel, and they were very happy with the outcome.

Okrafarmer

Veneer might be the way to go-- make sure you get the corners right, and it will look great

And of course the end grain-- you might have to do that photographically or something, not sure   :-\
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

Spalted Dog

If the customer wants it asap I am afraid that they will not be happy.  Most, if not all wood will crack and check, bow, especially the thicker the piece.  I have used anchorseal all sides and try to slow the drying as much as possible.  I have had mixed results, I have also covered with blankets, but do not let the cloth touch the wood.  Keep airflow to minimum and heat low.  No sunlight.  I have never tried poplar though.  I mainly work with walnut, cherry, and maple crotches and have had good results, however it takes YEARS to get it where I want it.  I don't think you could stop a piece that size from warping some though.  Cut it oversize and after its dry size it up.  I think that it will still split after install as I don't think that you could get the core to the same dryness as the outside layers.

If they are not open to time, Then offer them an alternative method like lamination, veneers, etc.

From my own woodworking business and dealing with people, tell them that the chances to get cracks are about 99% likely and it will take a long time to dry to that point.  Many people have unrealistic expectations and if they walk away you might be better off.  Most customers will appreciate you being up front with them even if its not what they want to hear.  They may move on and let someone else try, then when they fail they come back to you and you have a customer for life because you told them how it works.  This has happened a few times.

I will ask this question- Has anyone tried anchorsealing the ends and kiln drying an entire log, bark and all then saw your cant?  I have sawn some logs that were dead standing and had mixed results but could this work here?
The older I get the less I used to know.

Okrafarmer

Just had a hair-brained, spur of the moment idea-- two, actually--

A swing-mill could be used to mill out an L-shaped piece of wood that would have the appearance of being a beam or mantel, if it is only seen from two sides.

Or, if the beam had to be seen from three sides, has anyone ever considered drilling out the fourth side with numerous deep holes, or hollowing out the fourth side completely like a dug-out canoe? That might be possible with a swing-mill, too.

Just thinking off the top of my head here.  :-\
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

bikedude73

Thanks so much for the advise from everyone.......  Thanks again!!!!

jueston

Quote from: Okrafarmer on February 24, 2012, 09:04:56 AM
Just had a hair-brained, spur of the moment idea-- two, actually--

A swing-mill could be used to mill out an L-shaped piece of wood that would have the appearance of being a beam or mantel, if it is only seen from two sides.

Or, if the beam had to be seen from three sides, has anyone ever considered drilling out the fourth side with numerous deep holes, or hollowing out the fourth side completely like a dug-out canoe? That might be possible with a swing-mill, too.

Just thinking off the top of my head here.  :-\

i was wondering the same thing, but even if you carved it out like a canoe i think drying it without checks or twisting might be hard.... might be something someone has to try to find out....

Okrafarmer

You may be right, after all, I am usually good for these hair-brained ideas. Or is it hare-brained? Never mind. No need to derail the topic talking about wabbits.  :-X
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

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