I figured this day was coming. Had a contractor come in this morning and wants saw marks for some wall he is putting in at a fancy hotel. He wanted circular marks; told him we couldn't do that, but could still put in some saw marks by knocking a few teeth on the band blade out of kilter. I shot him a fancy price. We need to cut a couple of sample boards so he can show the hotel owners. We normally set at 30. I figure two teeth set at 45 ought to do the job. I do remember years ago an article in a Woodmizer magazine about someone doing it.
And all this time when we had tooth marks from hitting a nail or a rock. We were sitting on a pot of gold, just couldn't cash it in.
I've seen concrete retaining walls where the form boards were sandblasted. The earlywood/latewood grain was accentuated. I thought it looked great.
We once supplied some heavy walnut to a timber framer. We later got to tour the house. They had used the walnut in a number of placed. They had made all the knee bracing out of the walnut. They had taken a router and made simulated circle saw marks. They has also cut the planks into curves to simulate a knee brace made from a limb or curved log. I told them I could supply the curved planks with live edge if they'd just asked.
Periodically we saw 2x8 for planking for mountain bike bridges. They want it rough. We take 3 or 4 teeth in a row two different places on the band and overset them. Nasty looking boards, but they love them. We keep that blade hanging on the wall for the next time.
Dang, im gonna have to start doing a less acceptable job setting my blades. Go figure ;D
When I ran a resaw for a cut-up mill we would run wp-11 or wp-4 (siding) through the planer as 2x's and then I would split them into 1x's on the resaw. It made it fun when I had to leave it marked because the marking teeth would tear into the "V" on the edge. That was one time that I made darn sure that I was the only one to tail the saw. I never minded fascia though, free money!
Allan
I actually came up with a finish for rough sawn beams and trim work in my cabinet shop. We did some beams in the showroom and now I've sold 4 jobs with them since, the latest being wrapped beams arched. Took some creativity. You end up with a smooth beautiful but old and rough look.
beings I run a Circle mill I dont have to alter anything 8) 8) 8)
Thankfully people are warming up to the idea of bandsaw, as all the beams we've done were bandsawn. 8) I always liked circular saw marks better growing up though, now that I own a bandmill I might be biased. :D
I have a blade like that. :( Or did I should say.
Instead of putting more set in the teeth, take some out of five or six teeth on a band, as when you hit a nail the set is taken out, this creates a ridge in the board. ;) Then depending on spend of sawing the spacing of the ridge will deffer.
Our logger buys and sales stuff. He came across a Bellsaw set up on a mobile home frame and pto driven. The blade was about 40" and looked to be complete and ready to run. He got the extra tools and factory manual. I entertained the notion of asking him what he wanted for it. But resisted long enough (6 months) until it was gone.
My idea was to use it to put circle saw marks on beams. Saw the beam on the Wood-Mizer and the put on Bellsaw and rake turning blade across face.
I'm around a circular saw and I don't recall seeing marks on the lumber or timbers. Does something have to be wrong with the blade or does the sawyer have to do something to cause the marks?
I agree with isawlogs. IF you overset the whole band you wind up with wavy and fuzzy cuts, not just the odd saw mark. You need to just mess a few teeth up to get the ''marked'' boards or beams you are after. I overset one band real good(bad) when I first got the setter. It must have taken out 3/16'' to 1/4'' kerf. It didnt go strait or even. Just a few teeth out of whack will give you the look they probably want. Or just put on a band that has hit steel or was a little messed up. PC
Uncle's old sawmill made deep marks coming and going. That is it raked in another set of marks, arcing the other direction, on the gag back. I may be able to find some examples.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10034/wsroughsawn20130220.jpg)
Here is the oak siding on the folk's old corn crib. The lumber was sawn by my uncle Chick in the 60s. The red paint has faded nicely.
;D bibby, I have to grin, I had the same Idea, some folks want the ole circle mill marks, circle milled beams will sell many times ahead of a bandsawed beam, just one of many lil niches I suppose. david
a few years ago we had alot of requests for circle sawn flooring. so i built a machine. after the floor was made we would run it through this machine and put saw marks on the flooring. we could have it hit and miss or put deeper marks in the face.
there is something neat about circle marks, bandmill marks looks like something is wrong :)
I have been asked several times to re-produce some siding made with a band sawmill that had a defective tooth. This caused a "hump" in the pattern.
I did it for one builder twice. And another builder working on another house in the same street development.
I guess the original builder had a deal with one sawmill where he bought a huge amount of siding. Nearly every house on the street had this siding on it. And when anyone did any remodeling they needed to re-produce the siding to repair the walls. Or to make the new walls look like the old walls.
In order to do it I bent several teeth straight until I got the size of the hump right. Then I had to set the forward motion of the mill at the right speed to get the hump spacing right.
I did manage to get it done and the builder and his customer were happy.
After the job, I just reset the teeth back to the correct setting and used up the blade the regular way.
In order to get the job, I had to produce a sample. They took it and painted it the color of the house. Then they took it to the customer to show here and get her approval.
Then they wanted "dry" siding. Which I didn't have.
So they bought 2x lumber and had it shipped here to me. I ran the blade over one side of the 2x and then cut it down the middle. This would give them two pieces of 7/8" siding that they could use.
The problem with this process is that the band dulled quickly. And I had to keep resharpening it. So, I finally did this to several blades to get through the job and not have to stop every hour or so and resharpen one blade.
Jim Rogers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqLY6eAZ2gI
This ol'boy knows how to leave saw marks!
Bibby
Interesting vid on the circular saw.
His reaching in on the blade wearing loose fitting gloves did tingle my spine a bit. A stick would seem to be a better practice to remove slabs.
I've been around a number of these old circle mills and helped out at a few. You have to have some kind of nerve!
Humps just for looks is fine. Humps on bridge boards will soon wear down and defeat the purpose of having a rough gripping surface. Grooves will last a lot longer. Why tires have grooves instead of ridges.
I milled some Pecan the other day and notice some of the boards had saw marks. I checked the blade and found one tooth had a piece of metal bent over it. I took my knife and pried if off. I'm guessing it was in the log and got caught in the tooth. It looked pretty neat.
Island camp we had when I was a kid had joists and beams that had been sawn on a pit saw. Built 1820/30ish, a band mill with a buggered tooth or two would duplicate the look. The look on those old timbers looked like it was figured with the rows of tooth marks and the dark brown patina. Mostly EWP, not a half dozen knots in the whole building.
Quote from: Sixacresand on February 21, 2013, 08:25:55 PM
I milled some Pecan the other day and notice some of the boards had saw marks. I checked the blade and found one tooth had a piece of metal bent over it. I took my knife and pried if off. I'm guessing it was in the log and got caught in the tooth. It looked pretty neat.
I hope you took time to find where you had hit the that peice of metal and put the boards aside before your planer finds it and then it costs a set of knives....
Buy some of the course open sandpaper that they use on the first pass, to refinish a hardwood floor. Take a heavy duty 7" bench grinder and cut a thin metal disc to back up the biggest circle you can cut out of the paper. Think mine was 10". Secure the board on top of a couple saw horses and make one pass with the grinder and you will have your rough swan look.
I like your method John.
I made some marks yesterday. I saw sparks fly when the Debarker hit and "almost" dislodged the rock embedded in the bark. The customer said that the marks were OK and I kept on sawing.