Saw Shed Plans

[campy]

Please may I have critical input on the attached saw shed drawings.
They are in TWO .pdf formatted files so a reader will be required to view.
Once in the reader there is a rotate function here: (view > rotate view).

The roof faces south because solar panels will be added at a future date.

I plan to use Eastern Red Cedar for the vertical posts. 
These I can sink in to the ground about 30".
How do I keep this thing from blowing away in a high wind?

I need help knowing how to build the glu-lam beam in front.
I plan on screwing the boards rather than clamping but do not know what type of glue is recommended.
The standard beam size is to be 6x6 for the main beams.
Joist hangers will be used on the 10' roof spans to hold the 1.5"x6"x10' boards on 2 foot centers.

We have no snow here in TN, USA.

What would I expect to pay for roofing tin on a 1200 square foot roof?

Thanks in advance.

[WH_Conley]

On the shed design, you might want to take into consideration the prevailing winds more than sun exposure. That fine sawdust is murder on the eyes. You can always build another shed down the road oriented for the sun, gonna need storage under roof anyhow. Also. think about going with trusses, either boughten or homemade. That extra row of posts will be a pain in the hinny.

[Jim_Rogers]

campy:
Joints of rafters should not be over posts......

[WH_Conley]

Might want to check out this site.

http://www.public.iastate.edu/~mwps_dis/mwps_web/tr_plans.html

[paul case]

campy,
here in ne ok we do get some snow from time to time and on barns a person can spread trusses out to make a lighter weight roof. some we have on our farm are on 10' centers and have 2x4 purlins on edge nailed between the trusses. these work well the purlins are on 2' centers also. spans over doors are particularly important to be stout. how long is this span going to be? if at all possible i think taller than 6'' would be better. i cut a 5x10 beam for my garage door header and it didnt give a bit at 18' long. most carpenters here use 2 - 2x10 s with a 1/2'' osb or plywood in the middle for long span headers.  overkill is better than cleaning up the mess.   never glued any just nails or screws. pc

[paul case]

 set the posts in concrete with anchor nails drove into the sides of the posts.    dont put any sides on it so the wind is not a problem or close all the sides so that it doesnt catch the wind . i know thats 1 big door. .   roof metel here in ne ok costs  less than $45 / square for galvalume.  pc

[T Red]

campy:
Joints of rafters should not be over posts......

I may be showing my ignorance but do not understand that.  It looks to me like you would want the rafter joint over a post or beam preferably.

[beenthere]

Has something to do with bending moments of beams on posts, and highest strength of beams supported by posts. But I believe it is true, that the joint should not at the post for the best load carrying capacity.   
Structural engineers will have that information. (or someone might find it with google).

Campy
You could build a beam with plywood webbing and more depth to it, that will use less material and resist bending better than your beam with little depth. Screwed and glued is good. A water proof glue would be good, such as a resorcinal glue.

Posts can be held in the ground with a cross brace at the bottom of the hole. If exposed to moisture, I'd suggest tamping them in with gravel, and not putting concrete around them. Better for decay resistance.

[Jim_Rogers]

campy:
Joints of rafters should not be over posts......

I may be showing my ignorance but do not understand that.  It looks to me like you would want the rafter joint over a post or beam preferably.

As mentioned it has to due with the stresses pressing down on the joint from the roof load.
Over the post there will be the most stress, and you're cutting away half of the pieces. How can a piece hold up the most stress when you've cut away half of it?

Please read this thread to understand the reasons why "joints should not be over posts"

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,17350.0.html

Jim Rogers

[T Red]

Ok, I can see the issue with that.  If the bearing point was wide enough to be under the full un-notched thickness of the rafter it would be ok.  But the ship lap makes that almost impossible.