Useful sawmill mods

[pnyberg]

What's the need for the flat blade guides pictured in the last post.  The roller guides seem to do the job OK by themselves for me.

Thanks,
    Peter

[pnyberg]

Way back in the archives somewhere there was a discussion about improving the usability of the WM manual dragback arm. Someone suggested that a rope with a knot in it would probably allow you to quickly lower the arm when needed.  My mod was inspired by that comment, but I added some additional hardware.





The thing holding the rope is a bit of nautical gear called a cam cleat for pretty obvious reasons.  That and the two stainless steel U bolts came from West Marine.  A simple screw-eye above the cleat serves as a keeper for the rope when it's released from the cleat.

My prototype version of this didn't have the U bolts, and wasn't attached as securely.  It loosened up over time, and was able to slide right and left.  When it slid far enough to the left (rail side), it prevented the auto-clutch from completely disengaging, which resulted in the blade continuing to spin when it should have been stopped.  I won't tell you how many hours I spent fiddling with various adjustments to the auto-clutch and brake strap before I figured out the cause of the problem.   :-[ 

[Papa1stuff]

What's the need for the flat blade guides pictured in the last post.  The roller guides seem to do the job OK by themselves for me.

Thanks,
   Peter

They stablize the blade allowing to cut faster and smoother!
Maybe someone who has more experience with these could explain better!

[vadimo]

My little electronics mods on Oscar 228:
Calculator and Cyclocomputer attached to one wheel.


Cyclocomputer and Calculator:


Only Calculator before installing Cyclocomputer:


And one big feature, whitch i do and programming is application for java phones for calculating blade position. The my unfinished website is here: http://bsc.gejdos.sk. I this programming in free time cca 8 months :-)

[Magicman]

They stablize the blade allowing to cut faster and smoother! 

Looks like to me that they would reduce the size of the log that you could handle.  If that is the case, they would not work for me.

[Chuck White]

Band saw computer is interesting, but I don't know about the cell phone connectivity though.

[Magicman]

My old operator's seat had gotten badly worn and with holes in the cover, soaked up water when it rained.  I had it re-covered once, but the cost was high and the workmanship poor.  Anyway Command Control has really put WM out of the seat business.  I did internet searches and found the exact seat from the same builder that WM used, for half price.  UPS delivered my new seat Thursday.



New seat next to the old worn one.



Same manufacturer and model #V900

Now comes the workshop part.  I had welded the umbrella bracket on the old seat.  I didn't want to do this with the new seat.  I had found a "Nut Rivet" kit at HF a couple of years ago, and now was finally the time to see if it worked.  Sheet metal screws simply would not work for this application.




When drilling the holes in the metal seat back, I used 3 sockets on the drill bit as bit stops.  I didn't want a fresh hole in my fresh seat.




Next, I installed the nut rivets with the supplied tool.


This gave me a threaded nut inside of the seat.  I used liquid thread locker on the bolts.



Old bracket now bolted instead of welded to my new seat.

[paul case]

kewl, or cooler im sure  pc

[Magicman]

That new operator's seat and umbrella bracket worked like a charm.


And the Sun was shinning today.

[Bibbyman]

 But..! But...! Where's the cup holder? ;D

I don't remember,  does the seat rotate out 90° to aid in getting in/on?

I think I climbed in one at a show or something and it was a bit of a struggle for me. 

[Magicman]

That cup would only have sawdust in it.  Especially ERC sawdust.

The seat does not swivel.  I just keep bringing sawdust to that end and build it up high enough so that I can easily sit on the seat. The left leg generally swings.  On really big logs, I usually sit up on the seat back so that I can watch things.

Of course, with 20 footers, the seat has to come off, and the WM walk begins.  The majority of that last SYP job was 20's.

The only real drawback that I have is when the wind is in my face and I'm sawing dry logs.  Especially ERC !!!  I have had to just quit sawing.

I love my seat, and would not want to saw without one.  Of course, I've never used a Command Control. ;)

[Bibbyman]

The only real drawback that I have is when the wind is in my face and I'm sawing dry logs.  Especially ERC !!!  I have had to just quit sawing.

That's a simple fix.  Get a 12v fan and mount on the umbrella stand right behind your head. 

I have a $10 box fan mounted above and behind me to keep some of the dust out of my face and cool the back of my neck.

[Magicman]

That's a simple fix.  Get a 12v fan and mount on the umbrella stand right behind your head. 

What !!!   And then the Vortex of the Ambidexter Thermostropter will jump out of alignment with the Ampitilirator, and will really screw things up !!!     

[PineNut]

Not if you power it with UHF AC. That will force realignment of the Vortex of the Ambidexter Thermostropter and it should work properly.

[Magicman]

Aahhh, and I was always a VHF varister thermocouple guy.  That always took care of the counter-electromotive backdraft.  Oh well, back to the drawing board.    ;)

[ljmathias]

Are you guys speaking English or yooper or what? Oh, and the main thing missing from that chair setup is a touch-screen computer/game boy interface so you can multitask while cutting- play some online games, send some email while cutting, keep up with the forum contributions.  Just think how much more fun, complicated and rewarding life would be!

I love multitasking- gives you a great excuse for screwing things up   ;D

Lj

[paul case]

me2 :D :D :D

[Magicman]

NOTE: This post moved by Magicman to Handy things around the mill.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,258.200.html

[Bibbyman]

Good idea..  Even the right color.

I started the topic "Handy things around the mill" quite some time back that has a collection of tips like this.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,258.0.html

It's not been added to in a while.  Maybe some of the new members may find something of use in it or something to add.

[Magicman]

I've read that thread, but had forgotten about it.  I'm going to try to move the above post over to it, which will "bump" it up.  Maybe that's legal?

[Bandmill Bandit]

HI every body
I have been reading trough a few of the treads and will contribute some of my mods as soon as i have the picture up load figured out. On "mod" doesnt need pictures though.

The leveling jacks o nthe LT40 i am sure were designed in LA and I am sure the winning entry came from "Mickey Mouse Engineering Inc."

Mine are going to get a re work in short order but it will have to wait till winter.

For now I use the back and forth head technic and a jack that i am sure most every one has chucked in the corner and swore they would never use a again. It has different names all across the NA continent but it got a not so good name where I grew up when I was about 6 years old.

My step Grandmas first husband got killed using one them to change a tire on a loaded hay rack the summer of 61 and ever since then it has been known localy and the suicide jack.

Any one that hears it called that seems to give it a lot more respect then they ever did before they heard the story and I tell it here to make sure any one that uses my method has the same respect that I have for it. With a healthy respect for the risks it presents it is still a very useful tool.

A 36 Inch JackAll/FarmJack  is what I use to speed the process of leveling for now. The 36 inch version does help to keep you out of trouble with the jack but still needs the same respect that longer versions require.

works like a charm with the head positioning technic.

   

[Magicman]

BB,  Do some more reading on posting pictures.  They have to be loaded into your "Gallery".  From there, they can be added to your posts.  And, welcome to The Forestry Forum.

[carykong]

Has anyone fabricated removable extentions for their log stops (WM)?  I have an LT 25 and think it would be useful for turning cants over 20" or so.  My manual log turner tends to push the cants over the log stops on the last turn rather than turning them the last 90 degrees.   I remedy the problem with my cant hooks or nudge the cant with my FEL but not really happy with the pause to correct. Like to keep sawing. Thoughts?

[kderby]

The first mill I rented came with a couple of pipes that slid over the log stops.  I did use them when milling large pine logs.  I have now owned a mill for five years and have not made a set for my self.  I have hydraulics and use the log clamping post in partnership with the nasty claw. 

I agree with your point about the time it takes to fix a log when it goes sideways.  With my degree of experience I seem to have out grown that type of problem......I hope : :

[Bibbyman]

Has anyone fabricated removable extentions for their log stops (WM)?  I have an LT 25 and think it would be useful for turning cants over 20" or so.  My manual log turner tends to push the cants over the log stops on the last turn rather than turning them the last 90 degrees.   I remedy the problem with my cant hooks or nudge the cant with my FEL but not really happy with the pause to correct. Like to keep sawing. Thoughts?

Many years ago..



I started a topic "Handy things around the mill" with that same idea.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,258.0.html

It's still being added to.