Woodmaster B, C, and chipsweep blades

efiles123 · March 18, 2013, 07:12:17 PM

After using up all my goldline blades for my norwood bandsaw, I decided to try other brands in order to seek out more reliable and cost effective blades. My order of woodmaster blades just arrived (listed in title) and I can't wait to see how they perform. With only vague info from the site I purchased the blades from I'm still unsure about a few things. Can anyone let me know if the Woodmaster B blades can handle cutting nails or other metals found in the base of trees? How about the C blade and Chipsweep (I don't plan on it but figured I'd ask)?

Any thoughts or opinions about these blades please let me know.

Thanks

drobertson · March 18, 2013, 09:03:43 PM

I am currently running the Lennox C sharps, still on the trial offer blades, 10 degree, 1-1/4 they work great in the ERC, I'm not sure about any blade that cuts nails or junk, they may work, I just can't see how the surface finish would not be affected to some degree after hitting these items.

efiles123 · March 19, 2013, 12:16:27 AM

I just noticed the C-sharps are available from the retailer that I got mine from, wish I would've purchased one. The cobalt blade from norwood works ok for sawing through nails, although it does put some stress on them. I will have to see if the same holds for the woodmaster B cobalt blade.

ND rancher · March 19, 2013, 08:00:13 AM

I currently have a 10° C-sharp on and it has cut a lot of cottonwood logs compared to Ultra's I used. I also tried their 7° on ash and was also impressed until I hit a arrow head,it did only take set of a few. I'm finding that every mill and sawyer has there own sweet blade combo that works best for them, so experiment until you find yours. Keith

Dan Sawyer · March 19, 2013, 08:44:22 AM

Efiles123,
Woodmaster B is a bi-metal blade. As with any other blade, if it hits a nail that is of good size, it will suffer the same problems associated when this happens. Honestly, it does not matter what blade you use, if you hit a big enough nail, you will have problems. If you are sawing abrasive wood, Woodmaster B will be able to handle the heat better than a carbon blade. Woodmaster B will also provide additional life compared to a carbon blade.

Woodmaster C is a blade that has been on the market for quite some time. It was originally developed for re-saws, but some sawyers like it for their portable mills as well.

Chipsweeep was developed and has found a home for sawyers who want to cut frozen wood and/or want to limit the amount of sawdust left between their boards after making a cut. This blade has its disadvantages as well as it is difficult to re-sharpen due to its tooth form.

C-Sharp is a blade we released last year and it was developed for portable sawmills. There are a decent amount of information on other posts about this product and several video testimonials are available (Lenox Woodmaster Facebook page as well as Youtube). If you send me a private message, I will send you 3 C-Sharp blades for you to try on your mill.

Regards,
Dan

efiles123 · March 19, 2013, 12:04:46 PM

Quote from: Dan Sawyer on March 19, 2013, 08:44:22 AM
Efiles123,
Woodmaster B is a bi-metal blade. As with any other blade, if it hits a nail that is of good size, it will suffer the same problems associated when this happens. Honestly, it does not matter what blade you use, if you hit a big enough nail, you will have problems. If you are sawing abrasive wood, Woodmaster B will be able to handle the heat better than a carbon blade. Woodmaster B will also provide additional life compared to a carbon blade.

Woodmaster C is a blade that has been on the market for quite some time. It was originally developed for re-saws, but some sawyers like it for their portable mills as well.

Chipsweeep was developed and has found a home for sawyers who want to cut frozen wood and/or want to limit the amount of sawdust left between their boards after making a cut. This blade has its disadvantages as well as it is difficult to re-sharpen due to its tooth form.

C-Sharp is a blade we released last year and it was developed for portable sawmills. There are a decent amount of information on other posts about this product and several video testimonials are available (Lenox Woodmaster Facebook page as well as Youtube). If you send me a private message, I will send you 3 C-Sharp blades for you to try on your mill.

Regards,
Dan

Thanks for the very informative post Dan. I will definitely send you a PM regarding the blade trial.

efiles123 · March 19, 2013, 12:05:38 PM

Quote from: ND rancher on March 19, 2013, 08:00:13 AM
I currently have a 10° C-sharp on and it has cut a lot of cottonwood logs compared to Ultra's I used. I also tried their 7° on ash and was also impressed until I hit a arrow head,it did only take set of a few. I'm finding that every mill and sawyer has there own sweet blade combo that works best for them, so experiment until you find yours. Keith

Well said. I'm on my journey to finding the ultimate blade and we'll see how far this goes.

efiles123 · March 28, 2013, 01:48:47 AM

Still using the chipsweep blade and it is finally ready to change after 3 small mill sessions ( about 6-8 hours total). Not bad at all for an $18 blade considering my logs are not debarked and muddy from dragging them in the dirt with the truck. Even with the blade dull it still seemed to cut the fence boards straight, just at a slow pace. Can't wait to try the woodmaster c and b blades along with some c-sharps on the way.

stumpy · March 28, 2013, 08:03:47 AM

I use Woodmaster blades exclusively. Mainly cause I have a good supplier that treats me well and is reasonably priced.(Menomonee Saw). My main blade is a "C", but I keep a couple "B"'s around as well. The "B"'s are a bit more forgiving on nails, but I don't push it cause they cast about 4X the "C"'s. The main reason I got the "B"'s is for cutting very dry wood like WRC utility poles. They hold their sharpness much longer than the "C"'s

mikeb1079 · March 28, 2013, 10:55:02 PM

stumpy who sharpens your bands?

stumpy · March 29, 2013, 07:49:14 AM

A&N Saw and tool
Readstown, wi
608-629-5228

mikeb1079 · March 29, 2013, 09:20:34 PM

thanks for that stumpy, i'll give them a call.

efiles123 · April 01, 2013, 12:24:29 PM

Quote from: stumpy on March 28, 2013, 08:03:47 AM
I use Woodmaster blades exclusively. Mainly cause I have a good supplier that treats me well and is reasonably priced.(Menomonee Saw). My main blade is a "C", but I keep a couple "B"'s around as well. The "B"'s are a bit more forgiving on nails, but I don't push it cause they cast about 4X the "C"'s. The main reason I got the "B"'s is for cutting very dry wood like WRC utility poles. They hold their sharpness much longer than the "C"'s

Glad to hear the B's can handle nails somewhat. And yes they are expensive but I'm glad to hear they don't get destroyed from a little contact with metal, especially since they cost $68.

The norwood goldline blades turn to garbage if they even touch metal. I tried to have one resharpened after hitting a nail and it still wouldn't work.

redbeard · April 01, 2013, 03:11:16 PM

Thanks Dan Sawyer I received my C Sharpe's and tried one out on some big Doug fir logs I got 300 bf then it started getting dull I pushed it till the fuzzy were getting to be to much on the edge of boards. It was still cutting straight. Thanks for sending blades and I will report how they do on Madrone. I give them two thumbs up on cutting 1x12 Doug fir.

efiles123 · April 01, 2013, 11:47:52 PM

I got my C-sharp blades too, thanks Dan Sawyer! I can't believe how sharp they are. My brother tried one out and he said it cut like butter. I'm still waiting for some logs and then I will begin the actual trial, hopefully tomorrow or Wednesday.

Skoalbandit78 · April 02, 2013, 07:59:23 AM

I used one of the C-sharp 7° blades on a seasoned locust that was harder then a rock, and the blade didn't miss a beat. I was very impressed with it and plan to buy more once I use all my free ones from Dan. I wish Cooks would make a C-sharp cam for the cat claw sharpener

Cguignard · April 02, 2013, 08:37:32 AM

I have been cutting lots of White Pine on a old Norwood mark 3 and the woodmaster c sharp worked real well for me. I had been using woodmaster c before and the c sharp seamed to last a little longer. The chip sweep worked real well this winter when the green logs were frozen SOLID. When it started to warm up the cuts got a little wavy. I cut a dry pine log the other day with a chip sweep and I had good results, and the blade even cut 3 nails :'( and ran ok after. I like the lenox blades and i have been getting them for a good price from http://www.spectrumsupply.com.

efiles123 · April 02, 2013, 12:13:40 PM

Quote from: Cguignard on April 02, 2013, 08:37:32 AM
I have been cutting lots of White Pine on a old Norwood mark 3 and the woodmaster c sharp worked real well for me. I had been using woodmaster c before and the c sharp seamed to last a little longer. The chip sweep worked real well this winter when the green logs were frozen SOLID. When it started to warm up the cuts got a little wavy. I cut a dry pine log the other day with a chip sweep and I had good results, and the blade even cut 3 nails :'( and ran ok after. I like the lenox blades and i have been getting them for a good price from http://www.spectrumsupply.com.

WOW I'm impressed that the chipseep made it through 3 nails and still ran after. Not bad at all for an $18 blade. I don't think I'll ever go back to using the factory Norwood blades.

Cguignard · April 02, 2013, 02:20:14 PM

The sawing wasn't too bad after, the saw marks were a little different, after the nail hit. After that log the band was changed. Worst part is I hit the nails after I changed the blade out because my wife said it was pushing too hard for her.

efiles123 · April 03, 2013, 11:43:50 AM

Has anyone hit a nail with a C-sharp blade? I'm curious because I've got a fresh one on the mill and my next longs are 16 ft, base of trees.

qbilder · April 04, 2013, 10:42:30 AM

Quote from: efiles123 on April 03, 2013, 11:43:50 AM
Has anyone hit a nail with a C-sharp blade? I'm curious because I've got a fresh one on the mill and my next longs are 16 ft, base of trees.

Not yet but give me a few days :DI have some on order for a big walnut job coming up. Going to mill a load of logs the city removed to replant with pecan :-\ I expect those logs to be full of metal. I gave them a quick look over & they're all gnarly. Only one log is a nice saw log, about 24" diameter by 8' long & straight. Everything else is "character" logs ..... which means difficult & good possibility full of metal. These are the trees that lined the streets so at minimum there will be staples & small nails. I usually use woodmaster-c from Spectrum but for this job I ordered the c-sharps to see if there's any difference. No better way to test a blade than by fire.