Clearing Saws

[livemusic]

Two years ago, I bought a Husky 345FR. I seem to recall that Swampdonkey member helped me with lots of good info. This Husky was promoted as 17 inch. What is 17 inch? I don't know what that means. It is a 45cc saw. Probably a dumb question lol. This machine was not cheap but the Stihl was WAY more expensive and I went Husky. It was enough at $780, and I shopped!

I haven't used mine in a good while. I note that when I use it, the blade and guard tend to ever so slowly move/spin on the shaft and then I have to adjust it. There are four allen-screw bolts holding it. This movement can't be 'normal.' Am I just not tightening these screws enough or could one be defective or what? I think I have almost stripped out some of them (the allen head part) trying to tighten enough. A machine this expensive... this doesn't seem right lol.

Lastly, I have two of the following blades, NIB... Husqvarna Wood Cutting Blade w 1" Arbor Maxi S 200-26.

Do you guys think these are the best for cutting small hardwood saplings? (But, I also note that the blade I have on it is a Renegade blade.) Which one? I forget but I am thinking the Renegade worked best for me? I just can't remember. Then again, I seem to recall that I'd get mad if I hit a little rock and it would dull the blade. We don't have many rocks around here! But it hurts to mess up a perfectly good blade that is cutting good!

[lxskllr]

I'll have to look at mine later to see how the guard goes on. I haven't had movement on it yet. Of the blades I've tried(scratcher, tripoint, maxi), the maxi is easily the best for woody shrubs/trees. If you're doing a mix of everything, the tripoint might be better as long as the wood isn't too thick. Otherwise, it would probably be best to make a couple passes with different blades(or buy another machine, and hire a caddy to carry it for you  :^P  )

[SwampDonkey]

Two years ago, I bought a Husky 345FR. I seem to recall that Swampdonkey member helped me with lots of good info. This Husky was promoted as 17 inch. What is 17 inch?

Never heard of that one before. How far apart are the two poles on the handle bar, from grip to throttle?

[John Mc]

My guess is that 17" refers to the swath cut when using the string trimmer head.

[livemusic]

My guess is that 17" refers to the swath cut when using the string trimmer head.

You are right. I found a page that said it has "17 inches maximum cutting diameter." (I have never used it as a trimmer, bought it as a brush cutter. Saw it promoted as commercial grade. The Husky page is here and doesn't mention the 17 inches part: 345FR brush cutter

SwampDonkey, the width of the handlebars... I measured as 20" inside handle to inside handle.

lsskllr, what is a "scratcher" blade?

[lxskllr]

A scratcher blade looks like it could go on a circular saw. It has numerous "dorsal fin" teeth around the circumference. Tedious to sharpen, and not really ideal for anything. For pure wood, the maxi will take bigger stems, and for brushy, weedy stuff, something like a tripoint will tear it up quicker.

[SwampDonkey]

I hate cutting red osier dogwood and hazels. :D

thinner: Do I have to cut all them stems?
boss : just 2 m around the crop trees
thinner: That's what we're spacing the trees at.

:D :D

[John Mc]

Maxi Blade: sold under several different brand names, but all of them seem to be made in Sweden. In my opinion, this is the best blade for cutting down saplings. Also easy to sharpen with a 7/32" round file (I tend to use the Oregon chainsaw filing guide which clips on to the round file to keep the file at the right depth. I'm not aware of other guides that work for these. Freehand filing is also possible - and to me, easier than free-hand filing a chainsaw.)


 


Husqvarna "Scarlet" blade - Stihl sells a similar blade called a "Circular Saw Blade - Chisel Tooth":  At first glance, it looks similar to the Maxi Blade, but there are subtle differences in the shape of the tooth/gullet, and the steel seems to be cheaper than the Maxi blade. Sharpens similarly to the Maxi Blade. IMO, this is "second best" for cutting saplings.


Scratcher Blade: I had one. I could not find anything that I liked cutting with this blade. It's also a pain in the neck to sharpen. I threw it out. Didn't even want to give it away and curse someone else with that blade.


Someone also sells blades that have chainsaw teeth around the circumference. I didn't like it much, but maybe someone with a more powerful clearing saw would think differently?

I've never tried the Renegade blades, so I have no idea how they would cut. They look as though they would be a pain in the neck to sharpen.

[SwampDonkey]

Stihl has a universal file guide with all the angles shown on it. I use one of them. I don't think you can get the old 'Universal' file guide with the set tool that they sold for years. I think you can in Finland and Sweden though. And maybe Mcculloch? Are they part of Husqvarna now?

FLO008 - File / Setting Tool - Chainsaw Accessories

old guide

[lxskllr]

I have the Husqvarna set tool/file guide. Looks like your pic. Ordered it from amazon.

[John Mc]

My saw came with a separate tooth setting tool, so I never bothered ordering the all-in-one model. It certainly would be handy. I probably don't check the tooth set often enough as a result.

[SwampDonkey]

Most of the time I don't use it, the rocks have the blade all beat up by the time you'd check it. :D

[Allar]

Stihl has a universal file guide with all the angles shown on it. I use one of them. I don't think you can get the old 'Universal' file guide with the set tool that they sold for years. I think you can in Finland and Sweden though. And maybe Mcculloch? Are they part of Husqvarna now?

FLO008 - File / Setting Tool - Chainsaw Accessories

old guide

You can get that tool around here. Either under Husqvarna's name or under 'Universal by mcculloch's name. And yes mcculloch is owned by Husqvarna.

Imo the Mcculloch/Universal is basically what Partner used to be in Europe.

[lxskllr]

I looked at my machine, and couldn't make much of the head with the crud on it, and I didn't want to disassemble it. Looking at the manual, it appears to be a friction fit by tightening down the allen bolts. I haven't had issues with it turning, but I wonder if your bolts are shaking loose during use? Do they feel a bit looser when you tighten them? If so, perhaps you could try some loctite when you put them on. I'd probably go with the heavy hold formula. On my echo, the shield bolts kept coming loose, and I tried medium hold first, and they still kept coming loose. The heavy hold kept them in place.

[Orange]

Hi. First post for me as I just signed up here and glad I have finally done so.

I'm a few months in with an Echo 410U and have a few questions. Most pressing is sharpening the blade. My local shop doesn't have Maxi blades in 1" arbor so I picked up a Husky Scarlet 225 mm. Package says to use a 7/32" round file but it looks much to large. I did try to sharpen a couple teeth with it but it takes a lot of material off the bottom and the point of the cutting tooth before ever reaching in to the back of the gullet. I compared with a few other file sizes and it looks like 5/32" is a pretty close match. Has anyone else experienced anything like this? I'm no wizard with a round file but I've managed to keep saw chains cutting long enough to think I should have a passable understanding of what I'm doing. I'd post some pictures but I assume I won't be able to just yet.

[John Mc]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Orange. When you get a chance, fill out your profile so we know where you are from.

I use a 7/32 round file on my Scarlet blades when I had them, and now use it on my Maxi blades. I don't recall having the problem you noted with fit, but it's been a while since I started with a new blade. I would not be surprised if the first sharpen did need to reshape the tooth a bit. They were probably sharpened with a grinding wheel that had a profile slightly different from a round file.

Using the file guide as shown in the photo posted by SwampDonkey will help assure you have the file at the right height. If you can't find one of those (with the built-in tooth setter), a similar guide for sharpening 3/8" pitch chainsaw chain which uses a 7/32" file works fine as well. They are sold in most chainsaw shops, as well as many hardware stores or "big box" stores which also sell chainsaws.

[Orange]

Update on the Husky 545fr vs echo srm410u... The Husky feels like it has a bit more power, and the antivibe is a bit better than the echo. The short shaft works better in rugged terrain, and is easier to swing. The other side of that, is I could catch a foot with the blade. I don't like that. It was physically impossible to cut myself with the echo. The Husky can't be balanced. The adjustment ranges from nose heavy, to nose really heavy. I prefer the shaft to not touch the ground with hands off; floating just over the ground.

All around, the Husky's a more polished machine. Everything is just a bit nicer than the echo. While everything works well on the echo, it seems like older technology. It does everything the Husky does, but may require more tools and/or fiddling to get it done.

Recommendation? Sticker price on both is very close without sales. The Husky is $200 more, but it comes with three good blades(tripoint, maxi, string), and the stock harness is waaaay better than what comes with the echo. Throw in an echo sales event, and the decision gets more interesting. I think the echo wins for general groundskeeping. If what you're doing is a 'walk in the park', the echo is the machine to have. If you're climbing over logs, dealing with hidden ravines, and going up and down 2:1 slopes, the Husky might be the better choice, but watch your toes!

Do you know how much shorter the Husky shaft is vs the Echo? I'm only 6' and when I run the Echo with a trimmer head to clean up around the yard I have to stoop down with knees bent. The handlebar tower isn't very tall so if I lower the saw on the harness, the handlebars are too low. Usually I'm cutting brush or mowing overgrown field so not concerned then with a nice manicured look, so it's not a big deal. I agree the Echo seems to be striking a balance as a professional trimmer that is brush capable. It's vicious with a string on it. For heavy and larger diameter brush though, which is main reason I got it, I don't have much confidence the drive train will hold up for long. Your experience has not helped.

[Orange]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Orange. When you get a chance, fill out your profile so we know where you are from.

I use a 7/32 round file on my Scarlet blades when I had them, and now use it on my Maxi blades. I don't recall having the problem you noted with fit, but it's been a while since I started with a new blade. I would not be surprised if the first sharpen did need to reshape the tooth a bit. They were probably sharpened with a grinding wheel that had a profile slightly different from a round file.

Thanks for the welcome! And I'll do that.
Turns out I can post images, so the following two are attempts to show how the specified 7/32" round file fits the tooth. I suspected it may have something to do with the shape of the factory grind as it's not perfectly circular. But still this file strikes me as much too large.


 

 

[Orange]

This is with a 5/32" grinding stone just for comparison...



 

Think I should proceed with the 7/32 as spec'd?

[lxskllr]

I couldn't say exactly, and looking up raw number specs don't tell the whole story due to variables like the motor mount length, but I'd say the Husky is at least a good 6" shorter.

I'm surprised you can't get a comfortable height/length on it. Perhaps try rotating the handlebars so they're more vertical on the shaft.

I wouldn't worry too much about the longevity of the echo. I was using it really hard. If you end up blowing a tube like I did, look into getting Stihl bushings to put in your tube. I didn't get a chance to try it, but I think it would work, and it's cheap enough to give it a try.

[John Mc]

Think I should proceed with the 7/32 as spec'd?

I would use the 7/32". They spec'd it for a reason. Either will probably work, if held at the correct height in relation to the tooth, the gullet will be smaller with the 5/32". Anything is probably better than a dull blade.
It looks as though the 7/32" file may be riding a bit high in the photos you included, so it's possible you will need to sharpen down as well as back. Using one of the guides picture makes sharpening a no-brainer: it's easier and faster than chainsaw chain.

[Orange]

Wow...6" is a lot. I had the same trouble looking at specs. Echo says 60.2". I thought I've seen Husky shaft lengths reported somewhere but can't find them now. For other markets it looks like Husky also has the "RX" designation (vs FX or FR) which have longer shafts (but I don't know how much) and different angle gear head for trimming but not in the US.

Thanks for the tip on rotating the bars back more. I think I tried that but I'll play around with it some more and see if it helps.

[Orange]

I would use the 7/32". They spec'd it for a reason. Either will probably work, if held at the correct height in relation to the tooth, the gullet will be smaller with the 5/32". Anything is probably better than a dull blade.
It looks as though the 7/32" file may be riding a bit high in the photos you included, so it's possible you will need to sharpen down as well as back. Using one of the guides picture makes sharpening a no-brainer: it's easier and faster than chainsaw chain.

Thanks I'll give it a shot. I assume I should file "down" first until the file is low enough in relation to the top of the tooth, before filing back into the gullet? And are the guides pictured any different then the chain filing guides (which I have) besides having the tooth setting notch?

[John Mc]

I would use the 7/32". They spec'd it for a reason. Either will probably work, if held at the correct height in relation to the tooth, the gullet will be smaller with the 5/32". Anything is probably better than a dull blade.
It looks as though the 7/32" file may be riding a bit high in the photos you included, so it's possible you will need to sharpen down as well as back. Using one of the guides picture makes sharpening a no-brainer: it's easier and faster than chainsaw chain.

Thanks I'll give it a shot. I assume I should file "down" first until the file is low enough in relation to the top of the tooth, before filing back into the gullet? And are the guides pictured any different then the chain filing guides (which I have) besides having the tooth setting notch?

The file portion of those guides are identical to those used for a chainsaw - at least as far as I can tell. The tooth setting tool that came with my Jonsered is separate from the guide. I've used my chainsaw guide on both with good results.
Your fist sharpening will likely take a little bit more effort due to the reshaping needed, but after that it should go very quickly.

[Orange]

Thanks for all the help, folks! I'm really busy next few weeks but as soon as I get the chance I'll have a go at this blade with 7/32" stone and file and see if I can make it cut like new. I'll try to remember to report back if anything noteworthy comes up.