iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

peg location

Started by Momatt, October 09, 2017, 11:57:11 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Momatt

Is the ideal location for a peg centered on the tennon?  I was pegging some  6x6 together and  decided to cheat to the bottom of the tennon to maximize the relish.  I also noted that a 3 inch tennon looks kind of short when you are using a one inch peg. 

Don P

Generally down low, near the bearing. Think about shrinkage, you would usually prefer not to hang things off of pegs so normally you would put the peg relatively close to the bearing face. Edge and end distances would be the same as if you were using a steel dowel at the same load.

LeeB

Don,
I assume this would apply to just about any tenon no matter the orientation? The peg would pretty much always be best placed near the base of the tenon?
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Don P

Actually applies to any connector, if you look at the glulam guidelines they say the same thing about bolts and brackets.

canopy

For 6x6 timbers, 1" pegs are not standard. The standard is intended to balance the strength of all parts of the joint so that there are no weak spots. For a 6x6, the standard is 3/4" pegs in a tenon that is 3" tall, 1.5" thick, and peg placed 1.5" off the bearing surface.  For longer pockets (7-10") 2 pegs are used. For longer than 10" 3 pegs, still 3/4" each. There are exceptions. For a tension joint an engineer may specify 1" pegs matched with extra long tenons. But the important thing is you don't just beef up one thing because even though you strengthen that one thing, you can often end up taking away strength from the other parts making the joint weaker rather than stronger.

Thank You Sponsors!