Chain sharpening

[Bosco]

I've always used a file, but have sent my chains out to be sharpened too, thinking I need to get my own sharpener? looking for advice on models out there. All my saws are different so how hard is it to change size,angle etc...?

[barbender]

.404 and 3/8 use the same grinding wheel, .325 you have to switch to a different wheel. It would be kind if a pain to switch back and forth constantly. Otherwise, all the angles are easily adjustable on most grinders.

[Tom King]

I bought a cheap one decades ago, and pretty soon after using it wished it was back where it came from.  It does fine at setting different angles, and cuts consistent tooth lengths, but it doesn't have nearly enough power.  It slows down as soon as you engage the grinding wheel.  You can go really slowly, and it works, but that just heats the tooth up more.  I forget the brand name, but it's not a chinese one. 

I don't use it any more because a file is faster.

[beenthere]

Like Tom, I switched to a couple different sharpeners. But setup time and getting good sharp chain that I was happy with, went back to hand filing and found it less total time and more satisfying. Disappointing to get done with a chain off the sharpener to then find it doesn't cut well. 

Not saying those with a sharpener shouldn't be happy with their sharpeners. 

[JD Guy]

I use the Oregon  520-120 (if I remember correctly). Bought it primarily to bring cutters back after finding metal or the occasional dumb act of finding a rock! It works very well if you take small tap, tap on the cutter and don't bear down and burn the tooth. Set up is easy and straightforward, just follow the instructions. Changing the grinding wheel is also easy. I wait until I have a few of the different size chain and do them at the same time. I also freehand file but find that after awhile my top plate angles get off by a little and the grinder brings them easily back to specs. Good luck 

[barbender]

Yes you have to take a very light touch with a chain grinder. I don't remember what model I have, it is a Tecomec with the hydraulic clamp. I put a CBN wheel on it, but even with that you have to take a very light grind. It's not a problem with the grinder, but the nature of sawchain IMO. If you grind hard at all, the teeth want to curl and form a bur, which does nut cut well. 

 I think the reason a lot of people have a low opinion of chain grinders is that they are grinding too hard and not getting good results. My ground chains cut right with my hand filed ones. 

 I don't mean to suggest that everyone is being heavy handed with their grinders, either. On the contrary, you almost have to be ridiculously light handed. I set mine so it is just BARELY touching the teeth, and as I start advancing sometimes I'm not even touching some due to the initial adjustment. So I'll adjust it slightly heavier to grind those teeth and make a complete revolution. As someone else mentioned, tap, tap, tap.

  I've also noticed, at least on my firewood processor, the the ground chains have a far more durable edge. I think that is due to the shape of the edge it leaves. All I know is, once the ground edge dulls, I'll file it a couple of times and then get sick of how quickly they go dull and swap out for a fresh ground chain.

 

[ladylake]

  I think the reason a lot of people have a low opinion of chain grinders is that they are grinding too hard and not getting good results. My ground chains cut right with my hand filed ones.


  Well said, I use a grinder and my chains cuts as good or better than new, plus its FAST.  Steve

[HuckFin]

I like the Stihl 2 in 1 file better than any of the grinders I've tried.
.

[bluthum]

Another vote for the 2in1 file guide. I was amazed the first time I used the newly filed chain, sharp as new and pretty fast to file though a tiny bit slower than straight free hand filing. Much faster than grinding though as you don't have to dismount the chain. 

I'm sorta suspecting the drag lowering each time may be more important than I'd always thought. Previously I only lowered the rakers a few times during the life of a chain.

What ever the reason it works I'm in love with the new 2in1 system. Still to be determined how long the square file will last and cost of replacement there.

[barbender]

 I have a 2 in 1 Stihl/Pferd hand file too, it's a good unit. 

 I probably never would've bought a grinder if I didn't get the firewood processor. It is difficult to hand file the chain on it, it's in a tight spot. But now that I have it, I like to touch up my chainsaw chains too. I'm pretty good at hand filing but I'll never be as consistent as the grinder🤷

[lxskllr]

From what I've read, and a bit of what I've seen in person, it looks like using a grinder is a distinct art form, and requires practice to get good repeatable results. Not a a plug it in and magic happens kind of thing. I like hand filing, and my work load supports that. I'm not doing machines, and I'm not doing several saws every day.

[WLzM1A]

  I hand file and use the Stihl 2 N 1, but for a grinder, do yourself a favor and get a good one if you do.  I have the Tecomec Super Jolly.  It is very easy to go from chain to chain, regardless of size.  I put a brighter bulb in it as the eyes are aging and put a Foley Belsaw diamond wheel on it (#3570686). When I have multiple chains to get done, that's my go to.

[Bosco]

From what I read, see on youtube ,etc. I'm gonna try the Stihl 2 n 1.

[Stephen1]

I have the still 2 in 1 and am quite impressed. The only thing I would do different when I bought it would to buy more round files, I get about 6 hand files and then a new file works so much better. 
 I used to send my chains out until the guy sent them back saying I need to file the raker....Hellooooo..... that's why I sent them to you to sharpen. 

[jhellwig]

I bought one of the Stihl 2 in 1 things since the dealer didn't have any of the regular filing kits when I needed one for 3/8lp.  It kinda works ok but I think I am too dumb to figure it out.  Took me several times flipping it to find the right direction to use it then managed to pull it apart mid stroke.  I cant tell if I got it back together right or not.  The instructions are no help.

I can do a decent job with the guide that clamps on the file.  

[beenthere]

Sharpening tool for me is the Husqvarna Combi gauge guide





 

 

[Old Greenhorn]

Beenthere and I are on the same page here. I find those roller guides to be quickest and easiest. I have them for 3/8 and .325. I also have one for 3/8 X-cut, but found ut quickly I don't need it. I use the guide just to get the drop angle right. With the x-cut, the drop angle is '0' so I don't need the guide, just hold the file level. Yes, new files are nice. I was working on a chain early this week and felt like it was taking forever to get the teeth right. I grabbed another file and realized I was using a worn out file, which quickly went into the scrap bucket on my bench to come a punch or some other thing in it's future life. :D

[Wlmedley]

After trying several methods I also prefer the Husqvarna roller guide just wish they would make one for chain on my small saw.I like the way it keeps chain from raising while sharpening which is a problem when using clamp on bar sharpening tool.Husqvarna also makes a sharpening tool similar to Stihl which you can get for 5/32"size chain.I'm probably going to order one and try it.

[DHansen]

 

 

 I have been using the Husqvarna version.  It did help me learn better sharpening habits.  Like everything, the more time I spend on sharpening the better I am getting.  I also tend to sharpen, touch-up, every tank or every other tank.

[DHansen]

I was thinking about the original question about a grinder.  I think back 40 years ago and I always brought my chains in to be sharpened.  I lived with it for 5 years.  Brother in law gave me a grinder, and I did not fully understand the art of a good chain sharpening.  I used two different shops to do my chains.  Started to notice a drift to my cuts in the larger diameter cuts and longer bars.  Not a big issue with under 12-15" diameter stuff.  Questioned it with the shops doing the sharpening and received all types of possible cause, but really no help in correcting my issue.  I started sharpening by hand and slowly over the next 5 years got slightly better at sharpening by hand myself.  Then in the last three years with guidance here on this forum, my chains are better than ever.  Wish I would have learned early.  The roller guides shown are also nice.  Just have to keep them organized for the correct chain profile.

[barbender]

I suspect that sharpening, whether by hand or with a grinder, is difficult to get the hang of without someone actually showing you how. I had someone teach me how to freehand file a chain when I was about 18. One quick course from someone who knows how to do it right saves so much trial and error. I realize not everyone has that luxury, but anyone that struggles- watch for someone who has a saw that cuts straight and fast, and watch them sharpen.

[DHansen]

The internet has help put us in contact with folks that can help.  Pros and Cons to all this internet stuff.  But some common sense and there is good advise out there and folks that take the time to help others.  This is a good place for guidance.

[thecfarm]

My father could sharpen a chain!! Even in his 70's he could do it!!
Put the bar in a vise, get it at the right height for you or whatever works for you.
Might take more than a few times to get it just right.
I had a very hard time getting it. Much to my father despair. :(  I watched him sharpen a chain many, many times. I mean years!!
Finally, I took a log, me, chainsaw and a file. And I started on the log. Was not much left of the log or the chain when I got done, but I got it.
I can even sharpen a chain on the ground out in the woods, after hitting a rock and get it back to almost cutting like a new chain.
As I say, I must be doing something right, I can hold the saw by the rear handle, and it will draw itself into the wood.
Does not matter what you need to use or do to keep that chain sharp!!!!
A sharp chain is easier on you and the saw.
Just keep the same angle when it was new.
I call them witness marks on the teeth.

[SwampDonkey]

File my own with the 2 in 1 file guide. I don't set the world on fire with volume cut, but it's nice to work with sharp tools. ;)

[buzzegray]

I have to admit that I use  a HF grinder. Granted I don't cut a lot, but it works fine for me with a better wheel put on it. I adjust the thing so it almost hits the tooth, and then take advantage of the cheap quality of the unit and flex the grinder head so it kisses the tooth.