Building my version of a log arch

[kkcomp]

While waiting for my mill to arrive I have started making preps. While gathering learning logs it quickly became obvious that an arch would be a big help. Looking here and at You Tube I got lots of great ideas and inspirations and added a few ideas of my own. I can't say where each idea came from but thanks to those that posted their work to use as inspiration. 

 
After dragging these through the dirt the need for an arch became obvious.


 
The first question was how to move the arch so I added a hitch receiver to my box blade.



 
I am by no means a professional so I have to brag a bit about this weld 



 
Then of course it had to color match my Kubota.

Now on to the arch itself. After looking at prices for trailer kits and wheels I was ready to change my mind and just buy one. Then I found a trailer on Craigslist for $125 less than the parts would cost so I grabbed it.



 
This is the starting point for the arch. The trailer also came with a variety of items that proved useful later. 



 
After stripping the trailer to the frame the first arches and the beam is in place. For the risers I used 2x2x1/4 tubing. the main beam is 2x3x1/4 tubing. One thing that bugged me while researching was a lack of measurements so here is the approximate measurements I used. The risers are 16 inch the truss (angles) are 26 ish. The trailer bed is 10x 5 and the arch height from the bed to the gussets is 42 inches. Also note the basket in the front made from some of the "extra" materials that came with the trailer. More on that later.



 
The center arch is in place.



 
This is the basket I made from some of the extras. I split the basket and one side will hold the battery for the winch and the other will hold chains, ratchet straps, snatch blocks, the grapple and other stuff. I also made the front removable for ease in loading.



 
I got tow chains from HF and used the hooks as my holding points, there is a set front and rear about 6  or 8 inches from the arch. Also note I added a strong back to the main beam. This was done for added strength and to provide more clearance for the pully for the winch cable.



 
Hard to see but I then added some angle irons to the front beam. They are dual purpose, first a block to stop the winch from sliding. Second they were sized for a solar panel that will be a roof for the basket and a charger for the battery. Even harder to see is the pully brackets that were also extras with the trailer. At this point I had also added two coats of rust convertor. 



 
All premiered and ready for paint. I quickly figured out that it was easier to paint with the wheels off.



 
First coat of paint in progress. That color should be easy to spot in the woods. I applied 3 coats of Rustoleum brand enamel. 



  
After painting the frame I decided the wheels just didn't look right so I roughed the paint and added my own color.



 
That's better.



 
During assembly I also hinged the cross beams of the trailer for ease of loading. However, I wanted to keep them so that if I was moving smaller logs I still had the bed. They are held in place with galvanized pipe and 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts from TSC.



 
All finished and I will be able to try it out next weekend. Not sure how this picture got turned upside down, I hope it is not an omen. Anyhow thanks for putting up with the long post and again thanks to others who have posed their work.

[taylorsmissbeehaven]

Nice build. I could use one of those myself. Keep those pictures coming as things progress. Look forward to seeing the mill. What kind did you order? Brian

[kkcomp]

Thanks. I ordered the Norwood HD38 with the trailer, full hydraulics and power options.

[Jeff]

Note: pictures can be rotated easily in your gallery. I went ahead and did that.

[kkcomp]

Note: pictures can be rotated easily in your gallery. I went ahead and did that.

Thank you! please explain how.

[Jeff]

By clicking the little link under the photo that says rotate.

[Jeff]

Actually they say +90°  or  -90°

[kkcomp]

By clicking the little link under the photo that says rotate.

Thanks. I went digging after your post and saw that  :P

[Ljohnsaw]

What is the weight rating of you axle?  Is it the rear cross bar that can be removed?  I'm curious how you are going to rig this.  The winch will be on the front and a couple of pulleys at each end of the strong back?  With the back bar out, will you back over the log up to the axle and then lift/chain it up?  Will you be using log tongs or chokers?  Log tongs are pretty handy!

You probably saw mine - it works pretty good with the hand crank but I might go back to a winch since I have a tractor to pull it around on my property now.  I also made mine to be easily disassembled.  The diagonals have two 3/8" bolts holding them in sleaves welded to the other parts.  The top S bar has two 3/8" bolts holding it to the arch and two more at the joint right behind the back curve just in front of the yellow ratchet strap.  The winch is a worm gear so it self-locks.  I need to weld on a couple chain anchors on the S bar where the ratchet strap is and probably a couple where the angle bars attach.



 

[kkcomp]

What is the weight rating of you axle?  Is it the rear cross bar that can be removed?  I'm curious how you are going to rig this.  The winch will be on the front and a couple of pulleys at each end of the strong back?  With the back bar out, will you back over the log up to the axle and then lift/chain it up?  Will you be using log tongs or chokers?  Log tongs are pretty handy!

You probably saw mine - it works pretty good with the hand crank but I might go back to a winch since I have a tractor to pull it around on my property now.  I also made mine to be easily disassembled.  The diagonals have two 3/8" bolts holding them in sleaves welded to the other parts.  The top S bar has two 3/8" bolts holding it to the arch and two more at the joint right behind the back curve just in front of the yellow ratchet strap.  The winch is a worm gear so it self-locks.  I need to weld on a couple chain anchors on the S bar where the ratchet strap is and probably a couple where the angle bars attach.

The axel has a 3500 lb rating. Correct on the winch on the front and pulleys on the top bar. Not shown is a movable lift point. I intend to swing the bars in (both cross bars swing) and back over the log to the axel, rig the grapple/ tongs and some snatch blocks to lift up and forward. If I am stacking instead of suspending the logs I can move the point to get the log high enough to go over the bars. I think I may have seen yours or some similar because a disassembly idea prompted me to do the hinges. Just after I finished this one (of course) a neighbor gave me a dual axel boat trailer for free so I am thinking up ways to make another one. Maybe something with a lifting arch.

[Ljohnsaw]

Not shown is a movable lift point.

Maybe make it like the poor mans sky lift.  As you tighten the winch cable and it lifts the log, the lifting snatch block is allowed to slide forward getting your log to balance over the axle.  That would be pretty cool.

[Ljohnsaw]

a neighbor gave me a dual axel boat trailer for free

Maybe make a "running gear" trailer with steerable front wheels?

[fluidpowerpro]

Nice looking build.

[kkcomp]

Not shown is a movable lift point.

Maybe make it like the poor mans sky lift.  As you tighten the winch cable and it lifts the log, the lifting snatch block is allowed to slide forward getting your log to balance over the axle.  That would be pretty cool.

I have actually been trying to think up a way to do something like that  :D

[Sixacresand]

I jokingly tell  folks that my crude home made log arch has saved me $32,000+sales tax,  That used to be the cost of a new FEL tractor when I inquired.   Most of the time, If I can fit a 36" or smaller log inside the throat of my arch, then I can usually move it the mill with a big riding lawnmower.  Same goes for stacks of lumber and slabs.  Not a fast method for moving logs, but it certainly works.  

[WV Sawmiller]

KK,

 Nice looking rig but since the favorite FF pastime is spending other people's money, one suggestion I would make is to install a roller on that back bar. That should greatly reduce the friction and make it much easier to load a really big log.

   BTW - the roller can be level or even slightly below the level of the bed as it will mostly be needed while the log is still angled downward during loading and unloading.

  Be sure to post photos of it once in operation.

[mike_belben]

Nice job KKomp.  

Couple points.. I hope you take these as helpful tips and not criticisms.

Your welder is too small for the job.. Its not your fault, we all start somewhere, its what ya got.  Your hand was pretty steady but the low temp put a popcorn bead ontop the metal and not a fusion weld inside it.  with a 220v machine it woulda layed right in hot. Its not you, its the welder voltage.

If youve got more voltage turn it up.  If not, you can help your little machine think its a bigger machine by preheating the joint you tacked with a bottle torch, especially in winter.  I still do this with a 230amp mig just to have a stabile metal temp to work with so i dont need any adjustments after startup.  Another thing is to sidestitch more so that you arent advancing ahead to cold metal as quickly.  This stitching gives a brief dwell time which creates more preheating of the next increment to push the puddle onto.  Spattering is the sound of hot puddle on cold steel.

A torch preheat will sweat the moisture out and burn off any trash which also helps smooth the arc and melt it in. Heating to a silverish color change will be like doubling the machine voltage and youll notice the difference in puddle quality. Itll sizzle in like a candle going into a red hot stove instead of push back and pop and spatter.  Feeling resistance in your gun hand is a sign that you need more amps or a preheat. You dont want any pushback from your wire.


Your chain basket is handy, but its gonna jiggle chains between the wires just right to get stuck and drive you nuts. A little wood or tin in the bottom or even a cardboard beverage tray will help keep chain from falling thru. I like wire baskets from pallet rack mesh but chain always gets stuck on me


the removable rear crossmember was a pretty good idea. When you put a 10 ft log on youll probably find the tongue wants to lift off your machine or if the coupler is adjusted right, lift your machine off the ground.  Life goes on, just move the axle back.

Again you did a nice job and theres nothing wrong with having to make adjustments to get something dialed in perfect.  I cant tell you how many things ive made and then cut all back apart after 1 use saying why did i do it that way? Its how ya learn.  

[mike_belben]

The fastest way you can unload is to put a couple stout fenceposts in your staging area so that you back up, drop a looped chain or rope around the post down to ground level, noose the log or pound a hammer cleat into it and pull forward. Then logrite them over to the pile headed to the mill, back up and do it again for the next one.

The noose may be hard to get off unless youre dropping onto some dunnage which is never a bad idea. 

[kkcomp]

Well my first trial was a complete and utter failure. First mistake was putting the winch and pulley dead center. The pulleys and brackets were too flimsy and destroyed themselves. Also the weight concentrating on the very tail lifted the front of the trailer and dove the tail. 

Made some changes to off set the pulleys by welding grade 8 bolts to the side of the rail and got much stouter pulleys. Now I have 5 different points I can move the rear pulley to and lift up and forward at the same time. I also put some jacks on the back end to make a solid platform. Hopefully I can try it out this weekend and see how it goes.