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Adding height to pole building

Started by Polish Hammer1, September 06, 2022, 11:56:31 AM

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Polish Hammer1

So I started a post frame building setting 16' 6x6 4 feet in the ground set the bottom grade boards ran girts up to the last row and have plumbing and electric coming this week once that's done I will pour concrete then set trusses off the concrete.. my problem is I already bought 10' high doors was shooting for 12' ceilings well looking closer 3 of my posts got way deeper then 4' so now my lowest posts are 11'2"  I need 11'4" for my 15" radius track I looked for 12" radius and couldn't find them for my doors so will 2" breaks me when I put doors in or how would I raise it to be safe. I personally don't care how tall the ceiling is I just want a 10' high door and recommendations

rusticretreater

Simplest solution is to trim the bottom of the doors to fit, if that's doable.
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Wlmedley

I would think you could splice short 6x6's on to your short posts with out any ill effects if they were notched and fastened properly to get your height back to 12 feet.
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WV Sawmiller

   If the concrete is not in yet how hard would it be to excavate a little more?
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Son_of_Liberty

Two questions, are these solid post not lams? Are they gable end post or on sidewalls that they will bear a truss load?

Depending on your bury method I would pull the short post, auger the hole and pour crete into them to bring them back to height. Or simply compacted gravel if others are not set on footing pads.
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Ljohnsaw

You mention track and radius.  I take it these are rollup doors that go overhead?  The 2" drop in the track I think you can move the top roller on the top panel down that 2" to get the top panel to meet up with the header when closed.  Make sense?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Wlmedley

Don't know what size headers you are using on top of posts but maybe increase size of headers.I had to do this once when I got a post a couple inches low .Was planning on 2x10" headers and went with 2x12".This was two side by side with 1/2 plywood in between to set on top 4"x4" posts.
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beenthere

Pics of what you have will help with answers too. Seems doable to just add to the tops with careful carpentry work. 
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Polish Hammer1

Thanks guys for the reply's will try to answer all.. 
to excavate more would put me to low for the pitch going to
My house and the driveway 
My initial thought was to add a block on top sister a board then get my height to whatever my minimum would need to be these are solid 6x6 treated posts

Polish Hammer1

I didn't know trimming garage doers was a possible thing?
My header as of now is a 8x8 white ash solid beam these doors are on the eave  side

Putting the top roller on a different track I know nothing of? One door will be cold storage and one heated but the "cold" side is as going to pour a 12" wide curb under the door so it had a nice seal
All posts are 8 ft on center and trusses will be bolted screwed lagged to the posts minus the 2 Over the garage door headers

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Polish Hammer1 on September 06, 2022, 09:04:30 PMPutting the top roller on a different track I know nothing of?
I think I made a wrong assumption?  Are the doors roll-up or sliders?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Polish Hammer1

The doors are 12' wide 10' rollip there ideal commercial doors from Menards I bout them when prices started to go crazy that's why I'm stuck with them they are now 700$ more a door but glad I bought them

Ljohnsaw

OK, so the 1 or 2" slat type, not the residential garage door style.  On the garage doors, the top panel has a roller that is off set more than the rest to cause the top panel to "go vertical" even though the track is curved at the very top.

Sounds like you will have to install per the design.  Then, maybe, install a filler strip at the top gap between the header and the door where the track radius causes it to be away.  Maybe just your top trim board under the header to extend back into the building a bit?  If I'm picturing this right, you won't need to trim the door, just not unroll as much.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Polish Hammer1

Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 06, 2022, 09:55:05 PM
OK, so the 1 or 2" slat type, not the residential garage door style.  On the garage doors, the top panel has a roller that is off set more than the rest to cause the top panel to "go vertical" even though the track is curved at the very top.

Sounds like you will have to install per the design.  Then, maybe, install a filler strip at the top gap between the header and the door where the track radius causes it to be away.  Maybe just your top trim board under the header to extend back into the building a bit?  If I'm picturing this right, you won't need to trim the door, just not unroll as much.
I get what your saying so I won't have a 10' high opening it'll be a little under but will I have to add any height yet? Or can I just run with the 11'2" and I'll be able to get everything to clear

Tom K

If it is only 3 post and they are not at critical locations I may take a swing at extending. I would run a 2x6 on each side full height with a 6x6 block fit in on top to the right height. Everything glues and nailed. It would worry me less if they were on the gable end and not truss bearing, and if it is a smaller span. Details would matter in this case.

Polish Hammer1

The posts would be load bearing on the eave side the span is 40'

21incher

If it is only 3, I would dig them out and reset them after pouring a couple inches of concrete on the footers. Doesn't  pay to take chances and save 3 hours only to possibly find  out the building  inspector won't pass the building  with a patch like  that. When mine was built they even verified the correct number of nails was used in the truss connections during the framing  inspection.  
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Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Polish Hammer1 on September 08, 2022, 06:03:02 AMI get what your saying so I won't have a 10' high opening it'll be a little under but will I have to add any height yet? Or can I just run with the 11'2" and I'll be able to get everything to clear

I Googled the doors.  Did you get a 10' high 200M or 400M style?  In addition to the door opening, you need some space for the roll above the header.  Their drawings show what you need to make it work.  The 200M needs 17" and the 400M needs 21" above the opening. 

Will your "opening" of 10' have an additional header/trim at 10', just below the 11'2" post height with the 8x8 sitting on top?  That would give you 22" above your 10' opening and room for the roll. 

Then, it's just a matter of how much you unroll.  the taller the opening, the bigger the roll of door material and the more headroom you need for that.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Tom K

Well, in that circumstance I don't think I would be comfortable with a small patch on the top. I do like 21's thought on pulling the post and adding concrete on the bottom. I'm assuming you used a concrete "cookie" on the bottom, adding another one of those should bring you up to height.

If you decide that wont work and you have to splice to add length I would cut the current post half way up and splice on a 6' piece, once again with a 2x6 each side full height glued and nailed. There are approved nailing patterns for nailing multiple studs together to make a column. By increasing the length of the piece you are increasing the number of nails in each and the surface area of glue, essentially making the 4 pieces into one column. I would doubt you have inspections, but if you did your inspector "should" be ok if everything was done correctly. 

Polish Hammer1

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on September 06, 2022, 04:43:18 PM
  If the concrete is not in yet how hard would it be to excavate a little more?
So setting up a transit and really looking close I was able to drop the concrete height the 2" I need and still be ok with pitch away from everything so will see how it works out hopefully concrete end of this week if I'm able to get it
Thanks all for the reply's !

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