iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Cummins 4B Flywheel Torque Setting

Started by Mountain_d, March 30, 2024, 08:32:20 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Mountain_d

I am putting a new clutch into my 1978 Timberjack 230 with a Cummins 3.9L 4B engine. I was wondering if some members can help me with the torque settings for flywheel to crank torque and clutch housing to flywheel torque and suggested steps to torque.

I am also not sure what to do about Locktight? The previous owner used locktight on the flywheel bolts but I find it hard to tell what colour it was.  I plan to put blue lock tight on the flywheel bolts or should I use red? Due to the tight space between engine and transmission, next time I do the clutch I would plan to get the bolts off without heat using a half inch battery impact wrench (I have engine in-place and transmission hanging from roof with a chain and transmission turned sideways with flywheel side pointed out the right side). I am afraid if I use Red then heat may be needed next time which I would like to avoid). So, hopefully blue is good enough. 

Also wondering about torque for the clutch cover to flywheel? The previous owner did not use locktight on these but lock washers were used. I will use new lock washers. Should I use blue lock tight or are the lock washers and proper torque good enough? 

As some background info, I had a post a few years back about this clutch acting odd and I was asking advise whether to keep using the Skidder or not (link below). Looks like a few years back, one spring popped out the clutch cover, then a second adjacent spring popped out a few days ago. When the second spring popped, it would not go from neutral into gear unless the engine was turned off. With the engine off, I could put it in gear, start the engine with the clutch pushed in (it was trying to move some but clutch was more or less releasing). At least I was able to drive it to a friends, nearby garage for the repair work. The clutch was due anyways. Friction disks were almost done and the release bearing was rough and the pilot bearing had one little rough spot, so it was due. 
 
Thanks for Now

Mountain D 



https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=118131.0 
1978 TJ 230E 3.9L Cummins 4B, Husky 372XP, Husky 61, Husky 266XP, JRed 625, Husky 265RX clearing saw,  Woodmizer LT40HD 1995, Kubota 4950DT (53hp 4WD), Wallenstein V90 Skidding Winch, John Deere 610 backhoe, 1995 Volvo White GMC WCA42T SA Dump Truck, 2004 Ford F-250SD 4WD, , Central Boiler OW

rusticretreater

Woodland Mills HM130 Max w/ Lap siding upgrade
Kubota BX25
Wicked Grapple, Wicked Toothbar
Homemade Log Arch
Big Tex 17' trailer with Log Arch
Warn Winches 8000lb and 4000lb
Husqvarna 562xp
2,000,000th Forestry Forum Post

timbco68

Man , I wouldn't use red locktite unless you want to use heat to get them out the next time

Mountain_d

That is what I want to hear! I hope to use blue locktight on the flywheel bolts unless someone here think different. 
1978 TJ 230E 3.9L Cummins 4B, Husky 372XP, Husky 61, Husky 266XP, JRed 625, Husky 265RX clearing saw,  Woodmizer LT40HD 1995, Kubota 4950DT (53hp 4WD), Wallenstein V90 Skidding Winch, John Deere 610 backhoe, 1995 Volvo White GMC WCA42T SA Dump Truck, 2004 Ford F-250SD 4WD, , Central Boiler OW

Oliver05262

Blue locktite is all you need, but someone else will have to give the torque spec.
Pressure plate bolts don't need locktite, but new lock washers will do. 3/8 bolts would be fine with 35 lb/ft.  7/16 use 45-50 lb/ft.
4btswaps.com has several threads with torque numbers.
Oliver Durand
"You can't do wrong by doing good"
It's OK to cry.
I never did say goodby to my invisible friend.
"I woke up still not dead again today" Willy
Don't use force-get a bigger hammer.

Thank You Sponsors!