Calling All TimberKing Owners

[3500]

What are some of the specifics to the elec. log dog. Maybe pictures?

[ladylake]

 Go over to surplus center and look at item 5-1577-4, I mounted that with a clamp and hooked it to the dog with a rod.  It works good but was a tight fit and I don't think it's real tough. I'm thinking about changing it over to a power window motor which is more compact . I'm not good with pictires. If your haveing trouble with your log dog flipping up type in B20 log dog in your web search and click in maintaing a Timberking B20, I managed to get some pictures of how I fixed mine on thier, flips up all the time now.   Steve

[eireog68]

I picked up a tk b20 for my first mill because i have very bad back issues and have an implanted spinal stimulater
the problem i have so far is there is very little info on the b20 in the way of upgrades like the hydraulic log dog,the hydraulic toe boards etc i have searched the web and pics just are not out there
my goal is to make the mill full hydraulic so i may be able to use it a little. (no i cant afford a new full hydraulic mill)

i was thinking about replacing the real with an e-chain to contain wire and or hose to control items on the cutting head
or just using a wireless RF circuit to do the same.
if the e-chain is used the dc up/down for the head could be switched to hydraulic if needed

the log dog is a must retrofit as it is a manual up / down and the feed in/out gets stuck a lot in the in position after clamping this would be easy if i could get good pictures of the new hydraulic system they use now or if they offered a retrofit package for older mills (but a retrofit would be pricy i guess)

the toe boards are easy as there is an extra valve not used i just need to find where to buy a hydraulic a/b valve to switch between front and back toe boards.

for an added bonus i have been thinking about a way to stop the chance of hitting the back stops or the dog with the blade if they are to high and have come up with a simple solution but i have to test it first after the other mods.(this is a must for me also because of the meds i am on they have my brain cooked and i forget simple things like checking the hight of the backstops.)

this may seem like a lot but if one retro is done at a time it should be painless
when i start these mods i promise to post detailed pics for all to see. because i think the TKB20 is a well built mill and pics need to be posted for all to see.

[eireog68]

fstedy do you have pics of your hydraulic log dog mod

[fstedy]

I'll see if I can get some its a real tight fit. I used a hyd. valve from TK so I knew it would bolt right into the valve bank.

[redbeard]

I have gotten by for so long now with the raising of the log dog manually i kind have gotten use to my method, I use plastic wedges i made with a notch that fits in the drift pin they are different lengths so i always know how high i am and i throw a rubber band around it to keep it from flying away when its flipping up and down. I know its time consuming but i stripped the handle bolt off the first week i got the mill never claimed it on warrenty and still havent drilled it out. I like the wedges! Hyd up n down would be nice, I did ask awhile back and its 1500.00 for retro kit

[Northern Porter]

A little behind the ball here, but I own a 1600. Purchased it last year, built a large garage with it and have had no problems thus far. I did however find out that you should strap the fuel tank down after it flew back at me ripping the line out of the insert on the engine. Fixed that and got back in business.

Quick question, does anyone have any suggestions on how to charge a customer to just saw logs in half? I am ripping boards and cants for him also, but he asked me to split a pile of pines.

Ryan

[paul case]

by the hour. set up will take some extra time and i am sure you will have to adjust for taper so time starts when log is being loaded. i charge $40/hr and there is a 1 hour min. or you could do it just for fun. that would almost ensure that there would be hardware in his logs.  pc

[Northern Porter]

Thanks PC. Im hoping the logs are clean like he says. They came off of a back lot so Im keeping my fingers crossed.

[poolman]

I have a 2005 b-20 in south Louisiana.I have done a lot of repairs to my mill.The setworks are really no good on my model.I dont need it anyway because I am like a card counter in my head.I find counting in my head makes me smarter and faster in my milling.I know how to do any repairs needed to mine and have made changes to its function.  Brian

[ladylake]

 There's no way you can saw as fast or as accurate without a setworks, no need to bring the head back all the way, just clear the log drop and cut. I have mine set at 1-9/16 sawing 3000 bf of white oak this week, I'd hate to figure that in my old head. All that's needed is a good cord reel which at around $100 to $250 is not to bad when your running a $20000 machine. With 8000 hours on mine now I've had very few repairs with the most expensive one costing $268 for a lead screw. I did repower with a Isuzu diesel a couple yeaers ago that cost $1400 when done. Every mill is going to need minor repairs and adjustments now and then, on the TK everything is nice and simple.   Steve

[poolman]

I dont bring the carriage back i can read as soon as im at the end of the log.I know my next number in my head during the cut.As fast as the return i am sawing again.Its how you train your brain to work.It takes math in your head when you are cutting.I dont slow down at all. Pushing buttons was my slow down on that electronic box.I am much faster now than before.

[ladylake]

 I can't see that far or think that fast so I like the set works. Besides it stop exactly in the right place the first time every time, no bumping it up or down.   Steve

[poolman]

Steve maybe TK improved the setworks since 2005 .When i bought my mill in 2005 i would complain about the box not being reliable.They would tell me sawdust was on the sensor,which I knew was very clean.I got tired of hearing BS from TK after paying 25,000  dollars for my package.But now I am like a card counter in a Casino and very fast .It helps my thought process on other projects when it comes to math.So i think it just makes me sharper in my math skills.I am happy with my TK now and produce a lot in a day.I am able to do my own repairs to the b-20 now.   Brian

[ladylake]

 I know well how frustrating a eratic setworks can be, doesn't make a guy happy at all.  It took me almost 3 years to figure out that the cord reel was the problem, not to say you won't get a bad connection or something like that now and then. They did like to blame it on the sensor, after I got a good cord reel the nut on my sensor came loose and almost fell off and it was dirty, yet the setworks  never goofed up. I don't know why TK doesn't just tell people with troubles to go out and buy a industrial cord reel instead of check this check that and everything but the cord reel.  They will tell you to buy a new cord reel from them but even a brand new one doesn't always make contact on the ground circuit. My mill is a 2002 so the setworks problem has been around for a while.  Steve

[redbeard]

 

I had a set works problem that took me quite awhile to figure out, new cord reel wasn't it i even sent harness,sensor and setworks box back to TK to test all tested fine. What was happening was it would work intermitant then go all over the place couldn't trust it so i went manual for a few months learned alot of tricks ect. Anyway long story short it was this part on the 30 hp kohler gas engine ( :-\capacitor :-\) can't find the exact name of part. I believe i fried it when i jump started my deep cycle battery when it was failing, Iam sure someone with more electrical verbage could explain it better. So once i replaced the 60.00 part everything was back to normal. Haven't had any problems since other than usual cord reel cleaning (still need to get industrial reel like Ladylakes)  The TK tech said i was the first on this problem and they have always been there on any issue i have had. This part has alot to do with interference and computers don't like interference.

[poolman]

Redbeard if You find a 3 wire reel that the coil lock can be removed easy,let me know where.I am on my 3rd reel.I need one with a tough skin on it because my logs and boards can stike it.I had to remove a resistor out of my relay box 4 years ago.Now my up  on my carriage performs faster.My resistor in the middle of the box was getting hot and slowing my blade going up.4 years and no problem from removing it.I put my drip spout on the left side of my guide roller.I have never had a bad bearing in my sliding blade roller guide since 05.I put a small plastic tube with a wire taped to the outside for bending.If it strikes a log it has a memory to go back to the blade.I had to put my own chain tension bolt on my small log turning chain because big logs would knock it loose and break the master link.My hyd motor on my turner should of had a tension bolt from TK.Every year I make changes.  Brian Mcgowan

[ladylake]

 Redbeard  My mill is a 2002 , I can't remember seeing that part on the 27hp Kohler I had. I used to break turner chains maybe once every year or 1-1/2 years. When they got to be almost $100 shipped from TK due to them putting a little metal block on the links that turn I went to the fleet store and bought 10' of 60H which is way stronger the 60.  I welded some U shaped pieces of metal on every 5th link on the 60H , that's been on for 3 years now and still looks like new. That 10' was enough to make 2 chains with a bit left over. Also it's easy to clean the black and white contacts on the TK cord reel, it's the green ground which goes through the center somehow that causes the problems. When I first figured that out I mounted one of old TK cord reels right beside the one on the mill (duct tape) and ran the groud circuit through the black or white wire, that worked great untill I put a industrial one on.   Steve

[poolman]

I buy a reel every 2 years and i wrap duct tape on the outside of the reel to keep it from vibrating.Tape was keeping the low quality reel more solid.I will look out for a high end reel that alows me to pull the lock key out.If you know where a internet order cord thats good. I would order it. Brian

[Mark Webb]

What will go wrong will go wrong. I was moving some slabs from the back of my B20 first thing this morning and and one fail off the tractor and hit the speed control knob for the carriage and broke it off. I called TK for this valve and Jason said that was the first time he had ever heard of such a thing. Anyhow $86.00 can fix it. That's the way it goes sometimes.
Mark

[redbeard]

Lots of good info on this thread, I'am pondering the idea of eliminating the cord reel all together and going with a remote set up. I have seen Gschwends remote set up on his Brand X swing mill and I'am very impressed. He has given me the list of parts to order and will help me set it up ( another good reason to be friends with in your area sawmillers) I'am not sure if the frequency will mess with the setworks dose anyone have remote throttle control or has anyone done this with TimberKings yet?

[ladylake]

 I just put on a good industrial cord reel which always works. A remote should work also too.  I tried a remote for throttle control but found the buttons to small for working with gloves.   Steve

[eireog68]

I am looking for setworks for a b20 and for pics of a hydraulic log dog setup and pics of a hydraulic toe board setup these are the only things not hydraulic on the old b20 that i have and i need them to be so i can use it due to my back condition.

[eireog68]

poolman do you want to sell your setworks i have none and would love to have it as it would mean less moving around for me and my medical issues.