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Kubota d905 17-20 ish hp diesel

Started by Linemanacdc, March 10, 2020, 02:31:02 PM

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Linemanacdc

Hello all,

New to the forum here but think I found the right place to search some wisdom. My brother in law gave me a little 3 cylinder diesel d905 motor that his work was going to throw away. I understand it's somewhere around 17-20 hp. It runs and it has a generator bolted up to it but I don't have a use for that. I found out I could purchase a Norwood lm29 mill without a power plant(only company and model that I could get to be open to the idea). Anyone have any suggestions for me? Would it be a wise decision to try and go for it or do you think it would end up being a huge pain in the rear?

Thanks and good day!

Southside

Welcome to the Forum.  You would want to check the engine weight and the capacity of the mill and if those two line up and the engine is good you would have a very good power plant.  In sawmilling torque is king so diesels win every time.    
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Bruno of NH

Did you check with Ez boardwalk and see if they would sell you a mill without the engine?
Their mill is built very heavy duty and would think it might handle the diesel engine better.
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

Nebraska

 I Agree with Bruno, I think that would be a good combination.

Linemanacdc

Thanks for the advice, I thought the ez boardwalk was one I had tried to contact but didn't get a reply however I think it may have been by  email. I called and talked to a helpful feller that said they would be willing to sell one without the engine. It would be the "40" model and the only thing I would possibly have to fiddle with would maybe be pulley size as the engine rpm may not be quite matched. I will kick it around a bit and see if that would be a good route to take to put the engine to good use. Thanks for the input, greatly appreciated!

dgdrls

Welcome

Google Linn lumber sawmills

D

BargeMonkey

 The only thing I would be leery with a generator engine is how the governor / idler control is set up, most of those small ones I've been around go high rpm out of the gate, be rough on belts. We had a deutz around 52hp ? In the sawmill originally, that wore out and we repowered it with a 70 ? Hp bigger turboed close to the same engine and honestly sometimes that lacks for power, you want to put the biggest engine you can in on a mill. 

Linemanacdc

That also looks like a good unit, and I like the idea of having more of a choice of options for purchasing. It looks like the dry weight of the engine is 205 lbs or up to 242 lbs with a flywheel and rear end plate mounted. I'll give the guys at linns a shout sometime and get their opinions of the combination. 

Linemanacdc

Yeah you are correct about the high rpm out of the gate the way it is set up now. I would have to figure out a way of getting more of a control on the throttle, though I think it would be achievable as I can adjust it by hand when it's running at least. 

BargeMonkey

Another dumb thing to make sure on is rotation and how it matches up to the mill. I would ask someone who knows that model engine, I know on the small Cat excavators 301-303 you could literally wipe a crank out having the belts too tight, would want to make sure you dont have to much side load. My last employer put in some Mitsubishi's ? Around 30hp, had a gen mounted on 1 end, HPU on the other, it was a disaster. 

Southside

Yes - many a diesel was destroyed running a mill before they began to put on a crank support bearing.  Just too much lateral tension from the drive belt. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Linemanacdc

Yeah that makes sense. Must be because of the higher torque vs a gas I'm guessing? Ultimately I had visions of being able to just mount up a hydraulic pump to the motor and was hoping to run a hyd. motor to run a mill but I've kinda gathered there may not be any options to go that route

BargeMonkey

 Why mount a pump to run a hydro motor ? That's the expensive painful route I think ? Ours has a small hyd pump mounted off a drive belt to run the mill, be the way to go if you wanted hyd power. How much shaft is sticking out ? Enough to mount a pillow block and pulleys ? 

Linemanacdc

I guess the biggest reason I was thinking was simply because of reasons such as bending a crank and such. If I were able to avoid that side load it seems like it would make sense to me. I guess you're right about the expensive part though. I remember buying a pump for a log splitter I built for just a 9 hp gas motor and it was speedy. It would make it a little easier to take beings I didn't have to give anything for the motor though. I actually haven't even unbolted the generator unit off it yet, I probably should do that. 

gspren

If the genny works maybe you should just try to sell the whole thing and buy a mill ready to go.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

pineywoods

When you un-bolt the generator, you may find that the crank stub is tapered. Kinda hard to mount a pulley, but do-able. Sometimes a clutch assembley off a gas golf cart will fit the tapered shaft stub...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Linemanacdc

Okay, that's another thing I didn't think about being an issue(that's why I'm here!) So with that being said if it in fact does end up being a tapered shaft crank that would also make it more difficult to incorporate a crank support I'm guessing?

gspren

If the shaft end is tapered and you cant find a straight adapter a machine shop could make one, cost dependent on whether or not you have a machinist buddy.  
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

Linemanacdc

Sounds good, I'll have to see what happens when I get a couple more projects whipped out around here

okcarl

This forum is not too old, but find myself in the same seat with a D905 and hoping I can use it to build or find a sawmill I could install it on.  In the generator application seems they were only ran at 1500 - 1800 RPM which I would assume was to get the job done with minimal noise.  Did see where they described the engine as "Crankshaft possesses enough diameter, strength and main bearing area to meet various applications and to handle heavy loads" so maybe it would handle the side load.   Also found that the direction of Rotation is Counter-clockwise (viewed from flywheel side). 

mike_belben

Generator RPMS are governed to have the generators output fall within the standard 50-60HZ phase frequency that our consumer goods run on.  Im not fluent with the governor but im confident itll just be springs or flyweights .. And probably a rack limit screw to limit max fuel injection quantity.  A rack rotates the plunger barrels so that the spill port doesbt align with the helix.  Full spill is no injection.. Aka shutdown.  No spill is full injection aka WOT.


The D905 uses a very simple drop in injector pump cartridge.. A rack and barrel style inline pump that rides a cam.  Its simple and reliable and affordable.. $500 for a new drop in instead of $2k for a pump shop overhaul.  


To alleviate crank sideloads, simply build the machine in such a way as to have the crank powering a fully supported lineshaft with no overhung load on the bota crank whatsoever. Couple by lovejoy or chain coupler or universal shaft.


Look at a PTO driven sawmill with a pickup truck driveshaft going to a parked tractor if you dont catch my drift.
Praise The Lord

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