I needed a faster way to cut up my slabs. It's working great.
I welded on my handle to low but I can fix that.
I'm also going to put on a larger blade. It now has a 10"
Any one else use or have one?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Swing_saw_1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Swing_saw_2.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Swing_saw_3.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Swing_saw_4.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Swing_saw_5.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Swing_saw_6~0.JPG)
Used to use a humongous one at my dads mill. think it had a 15 or 16 inch blade , used to scare the crap out of me when it would jump forward and catch. i was always scared it was going to break the safety chain . but they really worked good.
For that reason I'm looking for a Dash-pot.
Perfect timing, I plan on a re-do of my fire wood chop saw.
Dash pot- (I had to look it up)
If you wanted to use an air cylinder there are special fittings for use on air cylinders that allow free air flow in one direction and adjustable restricted air flow in the other direction. I have used them often, would be perfect in this application.
Unless what you are going to chop is below that 2" fence, then you may be in for some big bangs and wood getting thrown about. Maybe good for 2-by boards or 1-by.
Have worked around such swing saws, and when sharp.. they work pretty good. But not so good for slabs and mill junk.
The buzz saw types where the cutting force is down through a slot in the table is much safer, IMO.
Cutting front to back would be safer.
Make sure you keep your fingers clear when in use.
The same thing but bigger used to be pretty common in mills here. Mostly gone now.. OH&S killed them off.
I know how dangerous they are. I never get in front of the blade when running.
For my dash-pot I'm thinking of using a hydraulic cylinder that gets fed back into
its self with a flow control valve in the line.
A dashpot is a mechanical device, a damper which resists motion via viscous friction.
The resulting force is proportional to the velocity, but acts in the opposite direction,
slowing the motion and absorbing energy. It is commonly used in conjunction with a
spring (which acts to resist displacement).
I worked with one of those back in the early '70s. Ours had a counter weight to keep the saw balanced, and to keep it back while running. Our blade was bigger. It was the same as you would see on a buck saw. It made quick work out of cutting. I'm not sure the smaller toothed saw will be as efficient. We went to a smaller tooth and more modern setup, and we quickly took it out, if I recall. We used it to cut up heavy slabs for firewood and to trim boards.
Are you planning to carry every board or slab over to be trimmed? We put ours in the line flow of the mill. Slabs were pushed to it and trimmed. Same went for boards. We used a wider set of dead rolls. Our backstop was 6". And we had a conveyor to take the cut up slabs away and pile them. Neighbors burnt wood, so there wasn't much of a problem keeping it away.
Yea... I will carry them over.. It's my down time and I don't mind it....
I'm not in much of a hurry. I wait until I get a saw horse full
before I start cutting. I spent about 1/2 a day using it so far.
It better that the way I was doing it before. Seems to work good.
But I do need a larger blade. About 3" thick is my limit right now.
Looks like that will get the job done. If you go with a bigger blade watch the tooth angle so It doesn't dig in. How about a clamp on top of the slab operated with a foot pedal to keep the slab from jumping without having a hand on it. :)
Quote from: 21incher on December 21, 2015, 08:22:05 AM
Looks like that will get the job done. If you go with a bigger blade watch the tooth angle so It doesn't dig in. How about a clamp on top of the slab operated with a foot pedal to keep the slab from jumping without having a hand on it. :)
The one I have had an air cylinder to hold the cant down and back against the fence. Not hooked up when I bought it and I never did, but I do think a clamp would help, as would a fence on both sides of the blade.
Classic story of a similar device here: http://poestories.com/read/pit
I like your idea of a closed loop hydraulic cylinder with a flow valve. I believe they make flow valves that only work one way then is unrestricted the other. Sounds perfect for your application. Good thinking! Nice idea for the saw too. I work the same way - proof of concept first, then lots of tweaking to fine tune to make it nice and easy to use.
I have one that is 26". Had too much angle when I bought it. Changed blades and it works good. As mentioned above it is scary when the blade catches. That is what happens with too much hook angle. Always stand out of line with the blade. The way yours is set use the right hand to swing the saw. That way your body is out of line with the blade. I can get 30-40 pickup loads of wood per sharpenings. Lot faster than a chain saw.
Well I just spent 3 hours running my mill with my wood vise edger setup.
I could make a cut and take the cut off piece to the swing saw and cut it up
before the carriage returned home. The swing saw is so fast. I'm all smiles.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Edger_attachment_3.JPG)
I'm happy for you! Don't you just love when something works out as good or better than you imagined it? Nice job. 8)
Quote from: Ox on December 22, 2015, 07:43:30 AM
I'm happy for you! Don't you just love when something works out as good or better than you imagined it? Nice job. 8)
Yep... I hated cutting up the slabs and I did not like edging.
Now it's not so bad. Cant wait for summer.
I'm ready to go. I also made a little wagon to slide under the
swing saw. I did not like picking up the cut wood off the ground.
Were you a farmer in a past life? The things you're doing are the things we used to do - come up with "extra time" to make things to help your days go smoother and faster. You're spot on thinking this way. A day or two fabbing equals many years of reduced labor when working. It's a no brainer. I like the way you think... I wish I was a bit smarter and able to think outside the box more. I also need to utilize this wonderful forum more when I need help thinking on something. The guys, you included, around here are phenomenally smart. I often feel very fortunate for coming across this place a while back. I think Jeff's idea about starting this forum and doing all that he does has changed more lives for the better than he will ever know. I know I was a lurker and reader for a good year before I joined! Keep on keeping on!
I've used these saws a bit and have seen some wrecks on them as well. The ones that I've used start with the saw out and you push it into your cut rather than the saw pulling itself outward and into the board. I'd put a taller fence on the back and a short one on the front and whether you use a counter weight or an air actuated system, the saw automatically returns to the start position. Cutting angle and blade sharpness are huge factors with these things.
Hope this helps a little.
I like it, I like it, I like it, I want one , I want one, I want one...
Now the questions
Is it home built , i think it is but not sure.?
What hp motor and what rpm?
What type of blade , you say 10" but is it just a table saw blade?
What about a drawing or plans of your build?
I would be willing to pay for a page of plans and details on how to build.
Quebecnewf
Swing saws have been around almost forever. They are the grand daddy of modern day radial arm saws.. Both have a reputation for the blade grabbing the wood and jumping forward. Couple of suggestions..Use a blade with zero hook angle teeth...I have an old craftsman radial arm saw that has a built-in feed mechanism that eliminates the problem. It's a small winch that feeds out cable at a slow rate when actuated. The cable is attached to the saw arbor. Spring return. I might be able to find a parts list for it, if it's not too old.
Keep on tinkering, I like the way you think...
I have been interested in these saws for a while now. I think with a little rethinking they could be made safe. Some new guarding , the right blade, safety hold down features that would require two hands clear. One hand to run the hold down the other to pull the saw. Could not pull saw unless hold down was engaged etc. etc.
Something like this running of a small motor ( gas in my case ) would be great for sawing up slabs and trimming lumber to length as it comes of the saw.
Every time I look at my slab pile I wish I had a method to saw them up as they come from the mill. I now use chainsaw and a rack but would love to have something like this .
Chain saw is only good for slabs this type of saw could do both slabs and trim lumber.
With all the very crafty guys on this forum I am sure we could ( crowd design) new term I just thought up, something that would fit the bill.
Quebecnewf
Quote from: Quebecnewf on December 23, 2015, 09:17:41 AM
I like it, I like it, I like it, I want one , I want one, I want one...
Now the questions
Is it home built , i think it is but not sure.?
What hp motor and what rpm?
What type of blade , you say 10" but is it just a table saw blade?
What about a drawing or plans of your build?
I would be willing to pay for a page of plans and details on how to build.
Quebecnewf
Home built... No plans.... 3400rpm 2 hp 115v motor. 1" arbor and piller blocks.
Axle brake plate that goes behind the brake drum for the guard cut in half.
Link belting is needed because the frame is all welded and there is no way to
put the belt between the frame.
Quote from: Ox on December 23, 2015, 08:16:04 AM
Were you a farmer in a past life? The things you're doing are the things we used to do - come up with "extra time" to make things to help your days go smoother and faster. You're spot on thinking this way. A day or two fabbing equals many years of reduced labor when working. It's a no brainer. I like the way you think... I wish I was a bit smarter and able to think outside the box more. I also need to utilize this wonderful forum more when I need help thinking on something. The guys, you included, around here are phenomenally smart. I often feel very fortunate for coming across this place a while back. I think Jeff's idea about starting this forum and doing all that he does has changed more lives for the better than he will ever know. I know I was a lurker and reaNer for a good year before I joined! Keep on keeping on!
First 22 years of my life I was a Christmas tree farmer. Then 20 years as a Textile machine fabricator and machine shop owner. Now I just play...
What are the details on the blade?
Quote from: Quebecnewf on December 23, 2015, 04:33:08 PM
What are the details on the blade?
It's a Dewalt 60 tooth fine cut 12" chop saw blade.
But that was a mistake. Way to small. I got this 16" one coming from E-bay.
I will have to rebuild my blade guard.
It worked great for stuff around 2" thick but logs have knots in them and
they get in the way of the frame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/16_inch_blade~0.jpg)
How as it worked now that you've added the bigger blade ?
Quebecnewf