DIY sawmill build

[Crusarius]

I have hydraulic tensioner and direct belt with a centrifugal clutch. Cost a bunch but very happy with it.

I always hated the electric clutch like on my zero turn. belt chirps every time its engaged and really hard on everything.

[Mesquite cutter]

I am leaning more into getting a Honda 22HP engine and using a centrifugal clutch on it.  I am thinking about getting the clutch with a double pulley from Linn lumber.

[Crusarius]

I wanted to get a honda. But a 21 hp honda cost 2300. a 22 hp predator cost 700. I could replace 3 for the cost of 1. and so far the predator has been a great engine.

[Mesquite cutter]

I wanted to get a honda. But a 21 hp honda cost 2300. a 22 hp predator cost 700. I could replace 3 for the cost of 1. and so far the predator has been a great engine.

Surplus Center has the 22 HP for $1399

[Mesquite cutter]

I need to correct myself.  The 22 HP briggs and straton is what is on sale for 1399

I am sure a predator has the power but I have seen too many bad reviews on this engine to convince me to go with it.  maybe I will change my mind when I get to the point of pulling the trigger on the engine.

[JoshNZ]

My tensioner is the hydraulic cylinder and sleeve setup. I don't know what to make of it still, I had heaps of trouble with it to begin with when I used a jack, it leaked down and was basically useless. Ended up modifying a cylinder to fit in there and fitted a portapump to it. Now the setup is, pump (with check valve and manual valve), high pressure ball valve, gauge, cylinder. When I crank it up to tension then run it, it still backs off for a while, maybe the first 5 min of sawing, I don't know what this is if it's the blade settling into it's running temperature or something in my setup is flexing/wearing or what. I can't believe it's oil getting back into the pump because it'd be getting through a ball valve, check valve and/or needle valve.. it's not coming out the cylinder seal as I've never seen a drip from it.

So maybe thats just how dynamic a running bands tension is, and the gauge is good to have in that regard, maybe guys with springs miss this temperature information I don't know. When I stop sawing I usually see the gauge climb again.
In summary, don't use a vehicle jack, they are useless. Also make sure your beam is long enough to support the full length of your sleeve at the end of its sliding travel, and that your sleeve is long enough to handle the torquing force.

Drive tension I used an idler (turning the belt inwards - go outwards if you have room) for one side of jackshaft, and the whole jackshaft assembly slides, for the other side (loosen pillows and slide in their slot).

Reliable centrifugal clutch is definitely the answer I think. Install it and forget about it.

[JoshNZ]

I bought a v twin Honda clone too, and it is a honey, hasn't missed a beat yet. I imagine it's the same predator you guys are talking about with whatever badge whoever gets their hands on them here puts on them.

I did change the oil for the first time the other day and I think there was less in there than I originally filled it with, however... lol.

The engine itself seems to be decent quality, I didn't check compression or anything but castings look good, doesn't seem to be slop in bearings no tappet noise etc. The muffler was absolute junk - that's my only complaint. Mig wire still stuck to it, and blatant holes. All painted over and sent out the door

[Mesquite cutter]

I just scored a Honda GX620 engine for $500.  The guys says it is new.  Let's hope it is.  I am having it shipped to me. 

[JoshNZ]

I'll give you $501 for it right now...  ;D

Nice..   Lazy people with too much money, my favourite kind of seller!

[Mesquite cutter]

I'll give you $501 for it right now...  ;D

Nice..   Lazy people with too much money, my favourite kind of seller!

You know what they say.  If it sounds too good to be true it probably is.   I had my nephew go by and check it out before I paid for it.   It was not new.   It was used by the Fort Worth Fire Dept and it is 9 years old.  I had to pass.  I just am not sure what kind of treatment it had in those nine years. 

[Mesquite cutter]

Hmmmm.... got a bit of a problem.  The trailer jacks are too tall or I placed them too low.  They are all the way down and the tires still don't touch the ground.  Hahahaha.  Any suggestions besides getting shorter jacks or installing them in a different location.  

[Mesquite cutter]

 

 

[Ljohnsaw]

Do you have your axle mounted over the springs or under?  Might be easier/faster to do a swap (new spring seats) to move the axle under.  If already under, add a "lift kit" blocks?  It looks like you are going to have the logs sitting on the cross members directly.  If so, the bed is pretty low - you will appreciate the logs being 4 or 5" higher.

[JoshNZ]

You'll put some kind of bunk on top of the cross members? Otherwise you will loose all the height of your tracks from your cut depth. And don't forget your tires too, if you can't get them lower or remove them, you're gonna be milling rubber! Would pay to drop them as John said. I hung the frame from the axle initially but had to flip it to solve that problem

[JoshNZ]

And I forgot to add, whatever height your bunks come up to, your jack tops can come up to, and might as well?

[Mesquite cutter]

The axle is mounted over the springs.  I will add spacers on the bunks.  I am thinking a small lift kit and placing the axle under the springs.  Is there a special kit to keep the axle at the right angle when placing the axle under the springs? My axle has seats that go on top of the springs.  

[JoshNZ]

Usually you would add spacers under your spring pockets, so the whole spring is lowered. And usually its no problem to flip the axle, have you got a photo of the assembly?

[Ljohnsaw]

The axle is mounted over the springs.  I will add spacers on the bunks.  I am thinking a small lift kit and placing the axle under the springs.  Is there a special kit to keep the axle at the right angle when placing the axle under the springs? My axle has seats that go on top of the springs.  

On camper trailers, they talk about "flipping the axle" but that is a misnomer.  You don't physically flip the axle over.  You just move it to the bottom side of the springs.  The spring seat (usually has a hole for the spring rivet or bolt) is there to help keep it aligned.  You need to buy (or make) and weld on a new seat to the top side of the axle.  You cannot roll the axle over or the wheel camber will be wrong.  There is a slight bend to the axle and that must be maintained in the up direction.  As you load the axle (trailer), the axle will straighten out making the wheels more vertical, overload and they look like a squashed beetle.

[Mesquite cutter]

Usually you would add spacers under your spring pockets, so the whole spring is lowered. And usually its no problem to flip the axle, have you got a photo of the assembly?

I am on a hunting trip right now.  I will take photos when I get back

[Mesquite cutter]

The axle is mounted over the springs.  I will add spacers on the bunks.  I am thinking a small lift kit and placing the axle under the springs.  Is there a special kit to keep the axle at the right angle when placing the axle under the springs? My axle has seats that go on top of the springs.  

On camper trailers, they talk about "flipping the axle" but that is a misnomer.  You don't physically flip the axle over.  You just move it to the bottom side of the springs.  The spring seat (usually has a hole for the spring rivet or bolt) is there to help keep it aligned.  You need to buy (or make) and weld on a new seat to the top side of the axle.  You cannot roll the axle over or the wheel camber will be wrong.  There is a slight bend to the axle and that must be maintained in the up direction.  As you load the axle (trailer), the axle will straighten out making the wheels more vertical, overload and they look like a squashed beetle.

I will buy the seats.  Thanks

[Mesquite cutter]

The axle is mounted over the springs.  I will add spacers on the bunks.  I am thinking a small lift kit and placing the axle under the springs.  Is there a special kit to keep the axle at the right angle when placing the axle under the springs? My axle has seats that go on top of the springs.  

I was looking at your build.  How is that single axle holding up on your biuld?  Now I am concerned that I might need a tandem axle.  Currently I have a 3500 lb axle.    My main beams and bunks are made from 3"X5" square tubing and it is 20' long.  Just wondering if a 35K single axle is enough. 

[Mesquite cutter]

I managed to get the tires low enough so I could remove the jacks.  The dexter conversion kit did the trick.  

[Mesquite cutter]

Photos 

 

 

[Mesquite cutter]

I have a question about the motor to lift the sawhead assembly.   I bought a motor with a gear box not thinking about the up/down rotation of the gear box.  Would I just get a reverse polarity switch for I can make the motor/gear box switch direction or do I need something special for this?  I have a switch from a winch that I do not use any more.  Would that work as a switch or would I need a solenoid assembly to make it change directions?

Also, the power supply for this motor is for 110 voltage and I needed for 12 volts.   Can I make this work on a 12 volt?

[Crusarius]

The winch parts will work perfect. On mine I have a 30 amp on off on switch that I just wired to have so that one direction goes down and the other direction goes up. Just changes polarity. Pretty simple. Works well.