Oops!

[TimW]

Why not just remove all the screws (or bolts) and move the entire contact strip down a couple inches where there is clean plastic flange and redrill the holes in the remaining plastic flange to match the existing threaded holes?  When the copper strip is off, you could true it up, also.  Then reattach the strip into the estimating holes in the rail.  

Looks like plenty of material and it would hold permanently.

Pretty quick fix, I would, think.  

Lots of ways to measure and blind match the existing threaded holes in the rail with the undrilled plastic. Or am I missing something?

On my old LT40 there was enough play in the contact strip power wire underneath to get a couple inches of sideways movement.  

Or am I missing something?

What you are missing is I won't know until tomorrow.  Is a couple of inches or even an inch shift one way gonna allow me to have power at the stop, or if I move it the other way, will the ground cable interfere with something else? I won't know until daylight.
  When I screw up, it is usually right at dusk.  It's dark now, so I could make it worst now.  We won't know daylight.
I used to do sheetmetal and have all kinds of hole locaters.  But first things first.  I have to get the strip housing our of the way so I can move the sawhead.  The strip housing will bind under the sawhead if I move it forward right now and I could damage the strip (more).  I will have to figure out how to remove two hidden bolts before trying anything else.  It's clear as mud right now.
hugs,  Brandi

[Chuck White]

If you get a new power strip, save the copper strip for future use in case the new one someday needs replacing!

The copper strip will slide out of it's plastic housing.

A while back, the power strip on my mill was pitted and I pulled it out of it's housing and flipped it over and soldered the lead on the other side of the strip, still works like a new one!

[YellowHammer]

Heck, if you get a new power strip, mount this one on the far end of the mill, and connect the two together.  This will give hydros at either end on the mill, which is am huge benefit.

[GAB]

To move the saw head remove the contact shoeand its mounting hardware.  That should allow enough clearance but go slow.
GAB

[GAB]

How about drilling new holes in the remaining "tabs" and tap the channel?  I would leave the existing screws and broken off tabs for alignment.

Lynn,
I thought about adding new mounting holes and tap them in the frame.  But the frame has lots of hoses inside that like to leak when sharp objects hit them.  

Bindian:
If you remove the hitch is there a possibility that you could push a board with a 30° or less lead angle against the inside of the tube to prevent the drill or tap from touching the electrical and hydraulic components inside the tube?
GAB

[Andries]

DanG GAB, that's clever!
You engineers are a bright bunch.
Bindian, this sounds like the ticket.

[TimW]

If you get a new power strip, save the copper strip for future use in case the new one someday needs replacing!

The copper strip will slide out of it's plastic housing.

A while back, the power strip on my mill was pitted and I pulled it out of it's housing and flipped it over and soldered the lead on the other side of the strip, still works like a new one!

I always save old parts.  Just for reasons like this.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

Heck, if you get a new power strip, mount this one on the far end of the mill, and connect the two together.  This will give hydros at either end on the mill, which is am huge benefit.

YellowHammer,
      When I saw how easy the strip is held on, I realized, that maybe additional strips could be added.  It really baffles my mind why WM didn't do this.  How many times I have needed hydraulics and didn't have power, only to have to back the blade back out.  Way too many.  It would be easy connecting at the far end of the frame, as only wires are a concern back there when drilling.
The new power strip is shipping tomorrow.  The plastic housing is only $25.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

To move the saw head remove the contact shoeand its mounting hardware.  That should allow enough clearance but go slow.
GAB

I learned many years ago as a mechanic, you only take off what is needed and is easiest first.
I will remove all the strip bolts I can first.  That will leave only one bolt holding, which will allow the strip to pivot on that one bolt and should self align for one trip out of the way.
  It's not the contacts I am worried about.  The strip is hanging down and is stiff plastic.   The strip will not straighten out if moved my hand right now.  It is hanging up on a bolt head that has pulled completely through the plastic housing and binding the strip in is down handing position.  That bolt is kinda hidden right now.  I gotta get that bolt out before anything.
If I move the head into it, even with the contacts off, I am concerned the head will bind into the plastic strip and my drive belt will slip, leaving me to have to "man" handled the head backwards.
             hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

How about drilling new holes in the remaining "tabs" and tap the channel?  I would leave the existing screws and broken off tabs for alignment.

Lynn,
I thought about adding new mounting holes and tap them in the frame.  But the frame has lots of hoses inside that like to leak when sharp objects hit them.  

Bindian:
If you remove the hitch is there a possibility that you could push a board with a 30° or less lead angle against the inside of the tube to prevent the drill or tap from touching the electrical and hydraulic components inside the tube?
GAB

Good idea.  I pulled the hyd. compartment lid to verify.  That looks doable.  But would you pull that hitch and tap holes to save $25 and a few days down time?  I won't try, as I am pretty sure that plastic housing has been stress bent too far and it won't straighten out once unbolted.  

As an experience mechanic needing to tap 4 holes, I would stick a hammer handle or small stick of wood in the square hole (can't be seen in the photo) that is right at the left most bolt hole and push the hoses over.  Also, near the new hole to be drilled near existing bolt holes, I would put a small screwdriver in and push the hoses over.   Then I would wind masking tape around the drill bit to just the thickness of the metal.  That drill bit would be a #40 bit for a pilot hole.

Then I would poke some safety wire in the pilot hole to see how much clearance I have to the hoses.  That would give me enough assurance to poke some new holes and tap them.  That is how an aircraft sheetmetal mechanic would do it.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

DanG GAB, that's clever!
You engineers are a bright bunch.
Bindian, this sounds like the ticket.

Engineers have their moments.  But to get a bright idea, you don't need a degree to get them.
I learned that working around aerospace engineers.  I have been around engineers that could NOT chew gum and tie their shoes at the same time.  I have also worked around engineers that listened to what the mechanics told him.  Those,.....are the engineers that earned my respect.  I think GAB is in the latter group.
   hugs, Brandi

[YellowHammer]

They do put two power strips on their LT-70's.  If you have a stationary command and control setup, the best power strip is none at all. 

[hacknchop]

WAIT WHAT I'm supposed to be able to chew gum and tie my shoelaces at the same time.
 I 've been WORKING on walking and chewing gum at the same time.

[TimW]

WAIT WHAT I'm supposed to be able to chew gum and tie my shoelaces at the same time.
I 've been WORKING on walking and chewing gum at the same time.

That is okay hacknchop.  My old CAT excavator can't walk and chew gum at the same time either.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

As it turned out, I got called away today to pick up two loads of logs.  I had to use my headlight to remove the power strip after all.

I removed the end screw, then pried with a pry bar and was able to remove the bolt that pulled thru the plastic, but the plastic was still up against the bolt head.  I pried the strip and was able to spin the bolt out with a 3/8 open end.  Then I bumped the head along to clear the last two bolts and it was free.  15 minutes time to remove.

The plastic housing and/or the copper strip is bent enough to cut it off at 24 inches.  I will remove the nylon bolt and try to remove the strip out of the housing first.  

Then I will grind the end copper down into a nice ramp (it is 3/16th or 1/4 inch thick).  Then reinstall the 24 inch strip to keep sawing.
Hopefully new strip assy. will be here Friday.
hugs,  Brandi

[Magicman]

 

 
I checked mine today and sure nuff, it has taken a lickin' in the past but it is still kickin'.  Actually I believe that it happened on this job that I finished today.  My customer/tailgunner let a full size 20' 2X10 get away from him last week and it fell between the tire and mill and hit the chain on my end.

[TimW]

 
I checked mine today and sure nuff, it has taken a lickin' in the past but it is still kickin'.  Actually I believe that it happened on this job that I finished today.  My customer/tailgunner let a full size 20' 2X10 get away from him last week and it fell between the tire and mill and hit the chain on my end.

$25 dollars plus shipping and you can have a new housing.  If that copper strip gets wacked out of shape, it is $89 for a new housing, strip, and cable plus shipping.

I gotta check chain tension also.  I was picking wood splitters out of the links today.
hugs,  Brandi

[Crossroads]

I've heard that if a log or can't goes off the back side of the mill it can bend the bender bracket, making it difficult or even impossible to slide the fender into the bracket. Fortunately, I also heard it can be opened back up with a chainsaw bar wrench. 😎

[kelLOGg]

 
I checked mine today and sure nuff, it has taken a lickin' in the past but it is still kickin'.  Actually I believe that it happened on this job that I finished today.  My customer/tailgunner let a full size 20' 2X10 get away from him last week and it fell between the tire and mill and hit the chain on my end.

To protect my chain I did this in reply #12: Got old Betsy back up and running. in Sawmills and Milling (forestryforum.com)  

[TimW]

kelLOGg,
I think just a 3/4 x 3/4 angle welded right above the power strip would work.

   But this mod is completely protected by the sawhead.  I cut it down to 24 inches and sloped the left end of the copper strip.  Works great for now.
.......and here is the guilty culprit.....

 
       hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

Good thing I was able to cut the strip down to 24 inches.  Just got tracking information and the new strip assy. won't be here until next Wed.
hugs,  Brandi