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Large tree cross-section table?

Started by KC8QVO, May 31, 2013, 09:00:17 PM

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KC8QVO

I have an opportunity to cut on a very large oak. I'm thinking of getting some coins cut for a table top from the widest part. Any thoughts? Any thickness that would be ideal?

The biggest problem I see is the weight. I don't think a 6" thick coin is going to fly, it would be cool though. I'm thinking 2-3" and even that may be just too much to handle.

beenthere

For sure, large cross sections (coins?) are heavy, and are also very delicate to handle. Just a slight drop of one corner and there will be two pieces to deal with.
Also, drying and associated shrinkage will begin right away, leaving internally stressed areas or splitting. Some will induce the split where they want it by making a radial saw cut to the pith center. There again, handling the heavy piece is always a problem. 
But always can give it a try and see what comes.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ianab

Your issue is that a "Cookie" like that is almost certain to split as it dries. Some species are worse than others, but I suspect Oak is going to be a major problem?

You might be better to just carve out freehand tabletop lengthwise, full width of the log. Avoid the pith area, but cutting from both ends will let you rip out a chunk 2X your bar length x the dia of the log.

Cut it over thickness as freehanding with a chainsaw isn't so accurate, and you might need to machine out some cupping or warp after it dries. Finished size more like 2" thick?

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Ocklawahaboy

A friend of mine uses ethelyne glycol (antifreeze) to slow the drying process.  He's gotten some large cookies to dry without splitting.  It's always a chance though.

beenthere

Ocklawahaboy
Would you tell more about how this process works? Painted on? Soaked submerged? or ??
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ianab

It's usually poly-ethylene glycol that's used a wood stabiliser. The is a higher molecular weight version.

That works by replacing the water in the wood, and remains in place permanently. So the wood never actually shrinks.

Just slowing the drying is not usually enough because eventually the wood is still going to dry and shrink. Because the movement is different radially and tangentially it tries to tear itself apart.  You cant have a circle of wood loose 5 % of it's diameter, and 10% of it's circumference without something happening.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

beenthere

QuoteWould you tell more about how this process works? Painted on? Soaked submerged? or ??

Ian is right, but I was curious about Okla's neighbors' procedure. I keep hearing others threating with antifreeze and suspect some are actually doing it. Just wonder how they do it, and what results they get.

I'm quite familiar with PEG.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

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