Sawmill Maintenance/Repairs

[esteadle]

Speaking of grease, do any of you have a method of removing broken press in grease fittings?

If you have a few different sizes of hex or Torx bits handy, this little trick seems like a winner:
How to remove a broken grease fitting - YouTube

[Dad2FourWI]

Nice! I will remember that little gem of information!

I have a ton of those misc T-bits... I'll toss a few into my toolbox that holds all my grease gun/zerks/etc maintenance stuff.

Thanks for sharing   ;D

[caveman]

I appreciate all of the guidance on the oil level tube.  I pulled the cover off today to check it and the tube was broken.  When I touched it, it came apart in my hand.  I did not have any 3/8" clear tubing so off to TSC I went.  I poured fresh ATF in and drained it once before filling and attaching the tube at the top.  The mill has 496 hours, and it was due to be changed at 500 according to the manual.


 

 

 

 
My intention was to saw some 1x6's for a customer while waiting for JMoore to get off work so we could return to the salt mines (jointing and planing another pallet of live oak).  Instead, I got to do this small repair job.  The 1x can wait until the morning.  I did saw six or seven short pine logs to use for above ground planters similar to the one I made two years ago that recently bit the dust (pictured below).

 

[Dan_Shade]

One broken off grease fitting 



 

[Magicman]

I appreciate all of the guidance on the oil level tube.

Nice save Kyle.  

[Magicman]

Dan, if all else fails you always have the option of drilling and tapping a new hole.

[caveman]

I've never tried it on a grease fitting, but if all else fails and you have access to a welder, you may clean the fitting very well and weld a nut to it.  The nut will give you something to get a hold on and the heat from the welding process will likely expedite the extraction.

Several years ago, I thought it would be easier to remove my truck's bed rather than drop the fuel tank to work on the fuel pick up.  All was going well until one of the bed to frame bolts (big torx head) would not budge, even after breaking two torx 1/2" impact bits.  I welded a 1" nut on it and with the help of a lengthy bar it came out. 

[TroyC]

I'd vote for the drill and tap. Looks like easy access. Had one of those press in zerks pop out recently. Drilled and threaded another one in, next size up, fixed.  8)

[SawyerTed]

It's broke off at the surface, I thought it was threaded, an easy out just spins it in the hole...

Use a center punch to tighten the zerk in the hole by punching the edge.  Once tight drill it out.  

[firefighter ontheside]

I went to my lawn and garden place in town and got oil, fuel and air filters, plus 3 quarts of oil.  Oil change went well.  Fuel filter change went well.  Air filter was the wrong one.  The one I got was too tall.  I wonder if they'll let me bring it back to exchange an open package.

[Bruno of NH]

How much time do you have to discuss this?

You are correct Scott, but I was thinking this morning about how much routine stuff that we do that just might help someone else.

Maybe having a maintenance topic is a good idea?  If not it will simply die.

Ah, thanks for the e clarification.  In my mind I confused "maintenance" with "repair"
One of the things that we do is use a leaf blower to blow out the mill at the end of every day's milling.  That helps to keep potential issues visible.  

We do the same after lunch and the end of the day 

[beenthere]

I went to my lawn and garden place in town and got oil, fuel and air filters, plus 3 quarts of oil.  Oil change went well.  Fuel filter change went well.  Air filter was the wrong one.  The one I got was too tall.  I wonder if they'll let me bring it back to exchange an open package.

Your mistake or theirs?

[Sixacresand]

Back to reply #28: Drive Wheel shaft/bearings assembly oil.  It does not take long for the assembly to lock up without oil. I replace the tube and ATF, got it broke loose and so far have milled about 75 hours.  I know I will eventually have to replace the assembly.  

It is a pretty flimsy set up for such a important part of the machine.  I think a dip stick would have better.  Imagine a plastic sight glass to check engine oil or gas tank.  

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=121104.msg1955038#msg1955038

[barbender]

That clear tube is a horrible idea, imo. Like SAS said, a dipstick would be way better. Even a plug at the fill height would be way better. That's all I have on the ol' '97.

[Magicman]

I am content with the sight tube and I give it a look-see whenever that cover is off.  I have never had it to be low on fluid in 20 years of sawing and replace the fluid and tube every couple of years.  

I dislike all of the covers but I also realize that they are necessary.  I may investigate whether there is or could be a way to view the tube without removing the cover.  Of course that would also allow sawdust to enter so.... :

Weather permitting I will be sawing SYP Monday.

[YellowHammer]

FWIW, my sight tube degraded on my old LT40 also, so I replaced it with the fuel and lubricant rated Tygon, it is yellow and still see through.  It will last much longer than the clear tubing which isn't formulated for long term chemical exposures.

[WV Sawmiller]

 

 
Normal daily checks before starting sawing discovered  the chip deflector was against the drive side roller guide. I pulled the deflector away but the roller guide did not roll freely and looked a little worn - I don't know how long I had run it while blocked. I had a spare and it was a few minutes work with a 3/8" socket set to change it out and I was ready to resume milling. Now I just need to order another spare roller guide.

[Magicman]

It's amazing how chips & sawdust can gradually bend that chip deflector.  I replaced my blade guide assembly last Summer and I noticed last week that the deflector is no more than 1/8" from the roller.  

Yup, I order a half dozen rollers at the time plus that many cam followers.  When I get down to two, it's time to reorder.  I always try to kinda make the shipping worthwhile.

[Old Greenhorn]

Howard, you don't do a full blade guide alignment when you replace the roller to check head and blade tilt? Takes me longer than a few minutes to get all that done right. That roller sure does look toasted though but I can't see how much wear is on it.

[WV Sawmiller]

Tom,

   I did not in this case as I was just sawing a couple of items for my own use and they looked good but I will verify with a quick measurement check. I did not loosen any of the set screws so I will be surprised if there is any change.

[Magicman]

Yesterday I notice that the last log loaded slower than normal so I glanced at my indicator lights.  The left light was sorta flashing rather than steady so I grabbed a new solenoid from the tool box.



 
The one on the right got replaced, so it was a simple and easy fix.


 Both lights glowing brightly now. 

[Jim_Rogers]

YH: so I replaced it with the fuel and lubricant rated Tygon

Where did you get that tubing? which store?

Jim Rogers

[Magicman]

The 3 PSI check valve failed in my LubeMizer yesterday and instead of removing the cover and replacing that "hard-to-get-to" check valve, I left that one in place and installed the new check valve "in line".


 
I had already decided what I was going to do so I had everything ready.  This may not be the ideal spot nor the permanent spot but it worked very well today.

[Dan_Shade]

@Magicman Do you have a link to your LED mod? 

[Magicman]

Here you go Dan:  LINK