Circular blade identification.

[Sawmillpilot]

Hello all, just signed up today, 12-12-15. I'm in the process of acquiring parts, and pieces to build a Circular Sawmill.  So far I have a 45" blade, with 30 teeth.  3-8 on the shank.  I also, for free I might add, a 48" 28 tooth blade.  It has no real markings that I can identify. Trying to upload a picture of the tooth, but of course it seems to be a mystery to a newbie.

  The shank has 2 holes, similar to the 3-8 shank, but they are 1 7/8" apart instead of 1 5/8" on the 3-8 shank.



  This blade is very old, and I'm figuring, (but hoping not), there is no parts left for this old monster, which is really too bad, since it's a very nice blade!

  This is going to be a long process.  I have several questions, and any direction to past posts that I can't seem to find would be greatly appreciated.

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Sawmillpilot.

[Jeff]

Those shanks should be stamped with a number

[Sawmillpilot]

It's so worn down that I can't find any markings.

[Jeff]

Did you clean it up and check every shank? 

[Sawmillpilot]

Working on it. Everything is soaking with a good coat of Kroil.  With any luck I'll be able to look at the blade Monday.  Sitting at work 90 miles from the shop.  I also am hoping to clean the blade up and see if I can find any identification on the blade itself.  This mill is very interesting.  It's home made with parts that came on the boat from Norway back in the day.  Will get pictures soon!

[Jeff]

Monday you could call sponsor menominee saw. They will know if no one here can help.

[Corley5]

Looks like a #3 :-\  If it is bits and shanks are still available.  Your other one may be a 2 1/2.  I think they are about to be obsolete from what I've read somewhere.

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

As you state, it does have the look of a style 3 inserted tooth, as indicated by the two holes and the slot from the hole closest to the tooth; large sizes do have two holes.  A 2-1/2 style has one hole.  Do you have the tool to remove the shank and tooth?  I do believe the spacing difference you note is because of the manufacturer's difference and not a tooth style difference.

Are there any numbers on the saw near the eye, like 610?  This will give the rpm speed, which is needed for tensioning the saw.  You might also find a number like 7-8 indicating eye and rim plate thickness.

The more common 2-1/2 size is thinner than 3 so you will get more sawdust and need more power with a 3 and even more with a 4. But you cannot change size. 

There are three style of #3 teeth I have seen, and all use the same shank...regular (appears that is what you have), long, and (my preference for hardwoods) Standall.

If you are going to try to use the saw, being as old as it is, you really need to send it in to Menominee Saw or similar, as it will need to be cleaned, and retensioned.  Plus some shanks may not come loose easily.  If this is new to you, also put a shank back into the same hole that it came from.  I suggest using some spray like "liquid wrench" to help loosen the shank, if you do have the tool.  In the past itinerant saw Doctor's traveled the country and did saw work right at you mill, but today we send the saw in for repairs.  You might have to build a box to ship it.

[dgdrls]

Welcome sawmillpilot

keep us posted on your progress

Dan

[beenthere]

Instead of Liquid Wrench, use the better Blue Creeper.
Loosening things is what it does the best.

[Jeff]

Instead of Liquid Wrench, use the better Blue Creeper.
Loosening things is what it does the best.

Agree wholeheartedly!  www.bluecreeper.com   Nothing better.

[Magicman]

Hello Sawmillpilot and Welcome to the Forestry Forum.   8)

[Brian_Rhoad]

Here is a link to saw shank identification.

http://www.drsaw.ca/images/shank.jpg

[Sawmillpilot]

Well, after a lot of work, I found a shank that's identifiable. 
R. HOE &Co. 4X8. I believe these are the ones that are all discontinued. I hope not!

[Jeff]

As I said, Menominee saw will tell you everything you need to know.

[snowshoveler]

I read this myself a couple times since the post was started, wondered too because my Belsaw has a similar tooth and shank.
I never found out who made my blade until tonight.
I removed it from the mill and started cleaning.
I used fine sandpaper and penetrating oil and even a bit of steel wool.
Found the serial number and a stamp that reads CNC...that was a surprise to me.
A further bit of cleaning and I found two prints out further toward the teeth.
Henry Disson and made in Toronto Canada.
Its a 38 inch blade with single circle shanks and bits.
Only thing not found was the hammered speed.
Sawmillpilot, how large is your blade and how many teeth please.
Regards Chris

[Jeff]

None of the blades I ever used had a speed stamped on them that I knew about.

[Sawmillpilot]

Mr Snowshoveler,

  My blade in question is a 48" with 28 teeth. As stated above, it's a 4X8 shank with H stamped on the bits. The blade is 5/32" thick.

  My second blade is 44" with 30 teeth, and has 3 8, and also finding 3 9 shanks on it, with S stamped on the bits. 9/64" thick blade. It seems to be more common. 

  I'm really hoping to find enough shanks and teeth to justify sending this blade off to be hammered and get the one tooth straightened that was bent before I acquired it.  I don't want to make a sign out of it if at all possible...

Calling Menominee Saw tomorrow.  Thank you all!

[Sawmillpilot]

Instead of Liquid Wrench, use the better Blue Creeper.
Loosening things is what it does the best.

  I was introduced to Kroil in 2008 while flying offshore Louisiana for the Gas and Oil industry.  I broke off a rusted in 5/8" grade 5 bolt, ( it was a heck of a cheater bar). Sprayed it down with Kroil, and left it alone for 2 weeks. After getting back, I was able to back the bolt out with a channel lock pliers!  No joke!!!  If Kroil is all the Oil industry uses, it's good enough for my amateur hour... Thank you for the insight though...

[beenthere]

I left Kroil when Blue Creeper came along, and I'd suggest try it.. don't have to wait 2 weeks for it to work, just hours at most.

And the smell of Kroil was the big thing I didn't like about it.. worse than diesel.
Blue Creeper has a very mild and acceptable odor..  just sayin...

[crash]

I tend to hoard 50's era International trucks and the old letter series John Deere tractors, mostly made in the 40's. It seems I'm always battling some sort of rusted, crusted, corroded, frozen, stubborn, stinking Dang bolt, stud , plug, or frozen linkage. I had tried about every penetrating oil out there without any sort of tolerable result. The blue tipped wrench was often the only way to get anything done. After reading many favorable comments about Blue Creeper on this forum, I placed an order. The day it showed up I put it to work on a seized coolant drain plug in the head of a Deere "A", fifteen minuets later the plug turned out with ease, I was in shock. Blue creeper quickly earned a permanent place in my shop, and became my favorite "blue tipped" helper.   8)

[Jeff]

Unless you have used both, there is no place on the Forestry Forum to try and tout anything over bluecreeper. Anyone that has used both knows what is better. Bluecreeper is the official lubricating penetrant of the Forestry Forum because it's the best. PERIOD. My website so I get to decide. ;D

[Ron Wenrich]

As I said, Menominee saw will tell you everything you need to know.

I know the new saws we bought had speed stamped on them.  I'm not sure about older saws, but they have speed, hand, gauge and a serial number.  They're usually stamped on the board side, and down near the eye. 

[Jeff]

Never had a new saw. Most of the saws I ran were as old as I was or older at the time.