Brake Problem with 1965 Timberjack 230 Fixed

[Jasperfield]

This morning I moved the skidder for the first time in about three months. After about 200' the Magic Smoke began coming from the brake drum that is outside the transfer case, and under the winch.

I stopped and reversed, but same thing. The drum was too hot to handle and moderately smoking.

I don't think the little parking brake lever had been set, but I can't say for sure. Anyway, I noticed that the brake pedal was all the way up and as hard as a rock. It would not depress even an eighth of an inch using both feet.

I think the brake built up pressure when it overheated and locked up. I could get it to move in a lower gear, but it didn't want to.

After the brake drum cooled all the way to cold, the brake pedal is still all the way up and will not depress any at all.

How do I fix this?

There is what I think is a bleeder fitting on the forward face of the brake backing plate, and there is a 3/4" (or so) hex bolt, that looks like it might adjust something, near the top forward surface of the same backing plate. I haven't turned or wrenched on anything yet.

Back in November, the brakes worked pretty well, except the parking brake was weak.

I've searched posts relating to TJ's & brakes but haven't found what I'm looking for.

Thanks,

Jasperfield

[beenthere]

Question. Is there a master cylinder?

If so, sounds like the master cylinder linkage is not in adjustment, and doesn't return far enough to drain (if that makes any sense). Just taking a shot at it, as don't really know the history or exactly what you have.

Had a car once that a so-called mechanic had adjusted the brakes. Not on each wheel, but only the linkage on the master cylinder. What you describe is what happened. Just kept packing more fluid into the master cylinder everytime the brake pedal was pushed. Backed off the linkage and when the master cylinder piston released the fluid, kapow. But had brakes again.

[bushmechanic]

Seems to me that the master cylinder is your problem.Inside that mechanism when the plunger comes all the way back the fluid in the lines and the wheel cylinder returns to the reservoir .I think your fluid is trapped and can't get back,may be a piece of dirt blocking the hole.Also I have seen when those machines have sat for a while and not in use the end of the barrel gets rusty and when the brake is depressed it won't return to the end of the stroke and it will not uncover the return hole thus pressure in the line.You need to get the pressure off the line now if you want to move it,just unscrew either the line or the bleeder valve to relieve the pressure.Hope this helps.

[jocco]

I am in a hurry jasper but : Crack the brake lines if that releases it  its master cyl/line related ;D  IF not it could be something came apart in the brake drum (this is similar to an old car, shoes/springs) Pop the drum (if you can) and have a look see smiley_safety_glasses

[lumberjack48]

Sounds like the micro lock is on, make sure its released.

[Jasperfield]

I overhauled the brake with new shoes, cylinder, and springs and that fixed it. The micro lock works good and the brakes work like new.

I re-listed it for sale here on the forum "For Sale" board at a reduced price to sell it. There is nothing else to fix, it's in very good condition.