Who here has made their own log furniture? I got some cedar trees out of the burn pile the other day and thought about making a log bench.
I've got several pieces made up ,benches,tables and such
I make my own. Just finished a kitchen island for the neighbor. When we set it in place I will post a pic of it .
I have made a pretty good bit of log furniture, you can check out my gallery on here and see some of it.
I'm getting ready to learn. In fact, I just got my tenon cutters TODAY from Lumber Jack.
Now just waiting on the weather to warm up a little. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24625/IMG_4634.JPG)
We make lots of it. We have made a living doing it for about a year now. If you need any advice, I can tell you what not to do ;D
just picked up some cutters myself in the fall, planning on getting some material this spring to make a few beds for the camp.
What is a good size tenon cutter to start out with for benches and chairs? I've been thinking about making some stuff and seeing how it sells and don't want to buy the whole range of sizes it it's a dud. 1-1/2"?
Quote from: landscraper on February 20, 2015, 08:57:25 AM
What is a good size tenon cutter to start out with for benches and chairs? I've been thinking about making some stuff and seeing how it sells and don't want to buy the whole range of sizes it it's a dud. 1-1/2"?
I have a 1 and a 2 inch and that's all. if I had to buy just one I would pick a 2 inch. then if you wanted a smaller size you can quickly draw knife it down to what ever you needed.
I use each size equally I use 2 inch for any structural pieces and 1 inch for any spindles.
I think a belt sander is a very important tool. it might just be my skills but the tennons or the holes are not always straight. I feel it is just due to working with odd shapes with nothing to square off of. I belt sand all pieces so they slip together pretty freely. not loose but freely, tapped with moderate force to slip them on. if not they seem to cause tension and cause cracks and failure.
if I knew anything about fine furniture building before I would have had to throw it out the window. When I started marking out all the pieces drilling then spending hours trying to force them together. now i drill the holes to fit where the pieces want to go.
just a few things I have learned that work for me.
Quote from: landscraper on February 20, 2015, 08:57:25 AM
What is a good size tenon cutter to start out with for benches and chairs? I've been thinking about making some stuff and seeing how it sells and don't want to buy the whole range of sizes it it's a dud. 1-1/2"?
I used to make cedar swings for outdoor seating. I have both a 1" and 1.5" (with radius lead-in); 1.5" TAKES ALOT of drill to turn, 1" can safely be turned with a 18v cordless screw gun.
I prefer the 1.5", as it seems to have more meat for making the connection, but if I had to do all over again I think I would try the Chamfer lead-in. With Radius, you have to almost widdle down the end to final dimensions and basically touch up profile with the tenon cutter. My $.02
Also, if furniture is intended for outdoor use, find a good wood glue.
Yukon Cornelius, what are u using for glue? indoor application. I usually use titebound 3
Quote from: cbla on February 20, 2015, 11:46:46 AM
Yukon Cornelius, what are u using for glue? indoor application. I usually use titebound 3
indoor titebond 2 and gorilla original. I drill through the center of the hole and screw and after assembled I screw it to help pull/ hold it in place. I counter sink the screw and plug it with dowel or small twigs to help hide it. Most outdoor things I don't glue. mostly I drill through the center the same and use long lag bolts with washers. I felt if it got loose then the lag bolt could be tightened to snug it up.
If i got to buy another cutter it would be a 1.5 inch.
I remove material off the end to be tennoned before I give it final shape by the cutter. By doing this I have stopped my need to replace my drill all the time. I also stepped up my drill to a 10amp dewalt from a 7 amp.
Littlejohn, what do you mean by the chamfer lead in? is that like the lumberjack pro series?
I have an 1 1/2 Lumberjack. My Milwaukee hole hog will stall out on some of the knots. I went with a 3/4" drill with 29" long handles. No more stall. Don't underestimate how much power it takes to turn one of these. Nice straight pine is easy. Try an ERC with knots it it. I highly recommend Lumberjack brand tenon cutters.
YUKON, I mean a cutter like this; http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200324607_200324607?cm_mmc=Bing-{adtype}-_-Power Tools-_-Drills + Accessories-_-331504 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200324607_200324607?cm_mmc=Bing-%7Badtype%7D-_-Power%20Tools-_-Drills%20+%20Accessories-_-331504)
I have the ones with the radiused shoudler and they are not fun to start on log much larger than the intended diameter of the tenon. I have to draw down the end pretty good so it sits in the cutter decent before I even attempt to cut the tenon.
I just purchased a Lumberjack 1 1/2 inch tenon cutter and realized I may not have enough drill for it. Noticed that most of you on this post had some experience with these cutters so thought I'd pick your brains. The Lumberjack site makes it very clear they want you to use the right drill. Just wondering what drills you all use and if it's completely necessary to follow all of the specs the website suggests.
For the 1.5" tenon cutter, I use a Dewalt -> 9 amp Spade handle drill, want to say the number is DW130v. I have tried using an 18v Cordless drill and it will stall out the clutch, which you have to use or you can burn out the little electric motor, don't ask me how I know :-[ ;)
For the 1", I typically use the 18v cordless, with the clutch set appropriately
GOOD LUCK
thanks littlejohn. I use these....http://grizzly21-px.rtrk.ca/products/2-Radius-Shoulder-Tenon-Cutter/T24584
for a drill I use the dewalt DWD210G still not enough sometimes but it doesn't lock onto a knot and spin me around/break arms.
An old big metal cased drill from the good old days would be great but I threw2 out all of my metal cased tools after my cousin was electrocuted and died at just 21 years old from one. I have been buzzed by them. I take every opportunity to advise against those tools. if properly grounded they are safe but it only take a unseen broken ground wire, insufficient ground rod or a better path through you than he ground and its over....... I will step off my soap box now. it means a lot to me to tell others about them.
I would be careful with a VSR, the max RPM are a bit high for tenon cutters; if I remember correct my 1.5" cutter is not supposed to be spun faster than 600rpm. I can only image hanging onto a 2" tenon cutter when it grabs a knot.
My geared DW130v, maxs out at 550rpm and I still have to hang on for KNOTS, as she likes to get all grabby. BTW, I cut mostly swamp cedar (white cedar) for outdoor swings
When pulling all the bark off the cedar logs I most of it but some remains. How do I get it completely off? I don't want to use a draw knife. Lots of sanding?
A power washer will get a lot of it. Or just wait a year and it falls off. ;D
I use my air compressor. :)
if you peel a log immediately after cutting it comes of easy and clean. if you wait a year or longer it comes off and needs some sanding but not too bad. anything between that just takes a lot of work and sanding. I don't power wash. My preferred method of bark removal is a sharp paint scraper, I prefer a stiff one, and take the bark without damaging the wood beneath. it leaves a great natural look. bark must be just right though.
I agree with "Yukon", if you peel cedar when it is still fresh, it will almost JUMP out of its bark. Otherwise break out the draw shave, solid vise, the big muscles and a handful of Advil ;D
This will help a lot.
My single speed drill and draw knife came this evening.
Now I can sharpen some Cedars. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24625/IMG_4704.JPG)
Those are some manly draw knife handles ya got there goat... Special Order?
Quote from: hackberry jake on March 05, 2015, 09:16:36 PM
Those are some manly draw knife handles ya got there goat... Special Order?
I ordered the draw knife from Lumber Jack rather than try to put handles on my antique DK.. I'll just hang my Uncles old draw knife back on the wall.
Were they having a special on women's draw knives?
Quote from: hackberry jake on March 05, 2015, 09:23:52 PM
Were they having a special on women's draw knives?
Dems red handles not Pink. Used by Goats around the world. ;D
Im sorry poston, I guess I need to calibrate my screen. I know how insecure you WM owners are about the color pink. :D
:D :D :D