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Author Topic: Cutting Stickers  (Read 1416 times)

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Offline D6c

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #20 on: July 22, 2021, 09:48:27 PM »

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
Are those walnut stickers?  Would walnut stain light colored wood?
I just sorted off a bunch of walnut lumber from a kiln load that wasn't good enough to plane and sell.

Offline WDH

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #21 on: July 23, 2021, 06:16:31 AM »
The medullary rays on the end grain indicate oak. 
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Offline doc henderson

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #22 on: July 23, 2021, 06:50:37 AM »
so banding can work good, but on a wide pallet it will tend to pull in a circle.  it will slide the boards together and put more pressure on the corners rather than across the top.  that is why I use band boards (2x material with a grove for banding, I get at Lowes) across the top and bottom to get the bands away from the sides and mostly pull top to bottom.  On single log stacks like I showed in my thread, the banding is fine.  The grooving in the stickers is cool.  I recall when I thought about making similar ones, @GeneWengert-WoodDoc told me there are patents, so you have to be careful, if you wanted to market them.  I think @customsawyer had some that had half round groves going diagonal across the stickers.  he also just looped the banding around the stack loosely and used the weight of other pallets to flatten the boards.
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #23 on: July 23, 2021, 07:59:49 AM »
I checked on it years ago, the H stickers are considered prior art and not unique technology so are not patented.  The angled fluted stickers like I and Jake use are patented, but it will be running out soon, or already has.  I have switched over to the angled and fluted stickers exclusively, Breeze Dry style, but they are made by a couple different manufacturers, so Iím not sure how that can be, considering the patent. I donít make them, it takes a machine I donít have.  

Either way, the angled fluted stickers almost totally eliminate sticker stain, but cost about $1 each.  I have many thousands of dollars invested in them, but they work.

The easiest way to put weight on a pack is stacking other packs on top during air drying.    
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Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyíre burned, and you canít fix them.  Donít burn the cookies.

Offline Larry

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #24 on: July 23, 2021, 09:02:30 AM »
Yes, oak sticks.  Those were the first I made and switched to using cottonwood.

The very worse stain is what I call "shadow" stain.  The white maple board looks perfect until its in a project, sanded to 320 grit, and with finish.  The shadow may only show under certain angles or lighting conditions.  May not even be noticed by most people, but the maker (me) knows.....  At that point if a stick cost $5 it would have been worth it.

I'm such an expert at ruining boards I figured out how to get reverse sticker stain.  Use super dry sticks fresh out of the kiln on fresh maple.
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Offline GAB

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #25 on: July 23, 2021, 09:21:28 AM »
I betcha YH makes em out of curly maple.  He's just not showing us his good ones!
Funny that you should mention curly maple because on wednesday 7/21/21 I Q'sawed 2 curly maple logs for a customer for guitar necks.  Took a while but he seemed to be happy.
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Offline teakwood

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #26 on: July 23, 2021, 09:31:20 AM »
My stickers are made out of teakwood.  :D ;)
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Offline Nebraska

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #27 on: July 23, 2021, 01:37:38 PM »
Shocker.......  ;)

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #28 on: July 23, 2021, 02:13:59 PM »
pretty sure your firewood is also made of teak :)

Offline Joe Hillmann

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #29 on: July 23, 2021, 03:27:32 PM »
I have found making stickers out of scraps isn't worth it.  I usually sand up 5 or so perfect boards(no knots, no bark, straight grain) on the mill and cut them into 1 inch strips, then cut their length to my stack width.

It feels like a waste of good boards but I reuse them many times over and having stickers that don't fall apart under their own weight and that can be kept tidy when not in use and being able to reuse them many times over make it lest wasteful in the long run.

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #30 on: July 24, 2021, 10:09:49 PM »
I  have no use for planed stickers. The rougher the better if you can't  have profiled .

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #31 on: July 25, 2021, 07:11:07 AM »
I went around and got dunnage boards from a couple of lumber yards ,freebies .Set up my table saw and cut them down to 3/4" stuff ,all 4 feet long .I had a couple of paper barrels full at one time. They are pine of course but they must have worked because the air dried lumber seems to be okay .There isn't any sticker stain on the oak, ash ,walnut or black cherry lumber I've seen .

Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #32 on: July 25, 2021, 07:51:43 AM »
Here's what I use.  I've got a few bins of them, including the ones being used.  These are about $1 each and work better than anything I've used, including the composite ones.  



 

 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it wonít roll, its not a log; itís still a piece of tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not pieces of trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyíre burned, and you canít fix them.  Donít burn the cookies.

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #33 on: July 25, 2021, 07:59:22 AM »
I've never used them but have heard of using 3/4" PVC pipes for stickers .I did however once cut rollers from 2" PVC pipe and used them to roll an 1800 pound Bridgeport model M milling machine about 50 feet to put it in place .This stuff is stronger than you might think .

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #34 on: July 25, 2021, 10:11:24 AM »
I went around and got dunnage boards from a couple of lumber yards ,freebies .Set up my table saw and cut them down to 3/4" stuff ,all 4 feet long .I had a couple of paper barrels full at one time. They are pine of course but they must have worked because the air dried lumber seems to be okay .There isn't any sticker stain on the oak, ash ,walnut or black cherry lumber I've seen .
Those woods don't count. It's sugar maple, elm. clear white pine, tulip and other 'white' woods that the stickers can ruin.

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #35 on: July 25, 2021, 10:17:47 AM »
Y.H., send me up a t/l of those twisted sticks :D. You sure are professional and no kidding here.  I have herd that those sticks will impress w.pine but they have to be the way for most any other wood.

Offline Andries

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #36 on: July 25, 2021, 11:33:59 AM »
Y.H., send me up a t/l of those twisted sticks :D. . . .
@Yellowhammer are those twisted stickers the same that @customsawyer had a one of the projects?  If I remember right, Jake had a bunch of sticker bundles from the Beasley mill - they will only allow so many cycles through the kiln with their stickers.
I helped you load a whack of them into your truck and that was the first and only time I'd seen that style. 



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Offline customsawyer

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #37 on: July 25, 2021, 11:42:21 AM »
The stickers I got from Beasley's were broken and no longer fit there stacking machine. They run 6 ft. packs and the machine has small C channel for the sticks to slide in. So if they break on the ends they no longer reach to the C. Well this makes them great for my pallets at 4 ft.
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Offline alan gage

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #38 on: July 25, 2021, 01:13:45 PM »
I've never used them but have heard of using 3/4" PVC pipes for stickers .
Better band those packs tight before you try to move them. :)
Alan
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Cutting Stickers
« Reply #39 on: July 25, 2021, 02:18:42 PM »
These are similar to the ones from Customsawyer, but we use so may now, that we just order these directly from the manufacturer.  We buy them by the "1,000 pc cube" and have replaced all of our conventional and H style stickers with them.  These allow me to dry sticker stain prone wood, such as poplar, even during the summer months.  

On some softwood and hardwoods, as moodnacreek says, if the packs are stacked too high, the limited contact area will crush the surface fibers on the face of the boards, and will be visible. However, as long as the stacks are not more than 10 feet high, (in our experience) they won't crush the surface fibers and isn't a problem.  However, with big commercial mills, and when stacking sky high, it can be significant.  The nice thing is that fibers crushing by "sky high stacking" can be mitigated by simply adding extra stickers per row, which brings down the individual contact loads, and eliminates fiber crushing.  

We dry very soft woods using these, such as basswood and pine, and as long as the stack height is watched, no problems at all.  

The absence of any sticker stain is really a nice stress reliever for me, especially in the summer.  Many mills in this area won't even saw and dry maple, poplar, basswood and other white woods because of the chances of sticker stain in the hot summer.  So this gives us an edge, and we don't have to be so "seasonal" when we are sawing white woods.  

 

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it wonít roll, its not a log; itís still a piece of tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not pieces of trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyíre burned, and you canít fix them.  Donít burn the cookies.


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