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Humboldt cut

Started by Frickman, January 18, 2025, 01:23:45 PM

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Frickman

I finally figured out the origin of the humboldt cut/face when felling timber.  Go ahead and make fun of me, I don't care.

For some background, I am a retired logger/sawyer who worked in northeastern/mid-atlantic timber all my life, primarily hardwoods.  I did cut a little pine here and there.  The vast majority of the timber I cut was less than 30" dbh. I logged with cable skidders and forwarders. I felled timber with chain saws and a conventional/open face notch.

Here is what I figured out.  Back in the day when first growth timber in the PNW was being cut it was of a large diameter, cut by hand, and logged with animal power.  The humboldt notch allowed the butt to slide off the stump when the tree fell, preventing a lot of bind and stress in the butt log when the buckers bucked the log with two man cross cut saws.  Am I correct?

I know there is a reason behind everything, and this is the only reason I could think of.  Correct me if I am wrong.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

beenthere

I understood the Humbolt was used because it didn't reduce the length of some of the boards sawn from the logs. i.e. a 16' log having boards trimmed to 14' (as multiples of 2' length softwood lumber was the norm).
May be more information in the log scaling rules as well.

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

quilbilly

Not really, the first old growth was logged with axes and misery whips, a homboldt wasn't possible. Not till the chainsaw could you do it and then I believe you're onto the right idea. We also have way more mountain cutting and the Humboldt is naturally a better style for that. Most of us out here also believe it's safer, although I know we don't cut GOL style.
a man is strongest on his knees

TreefarmerNN

It's easy to see using a Humbolt when felling trees on a steep hillside.  You can get a flat butt log and the waste comes from the downhill side of the tree.

taylorsmissbeehaven

I also thought the Humbolt allowed the hinge to control the tree a bit longer than a conventional notch. Possibly giving the feller a bit more control. Is that true? Seems to fit into mountain cutting as well. 
Opportunity is missed by most because it shows up wearing bib overalls and looks like work.

John Mc

Quote from: taylorsmissbeehaven on January 19, 2025, 08:30:07 AMI also thought the Humbolt allowed the hinge to control the tree a bit longer than a conventional notch. Possibly giving the feller a bit more control. Is that true? Seems to fit into mountain cutting as well.
No. That is controlled by the included angle of the notch. If the notch is 45˚ wide, it will close when the tree has fallen through 45˚ regardless of whether it's a Humbolt or conventional notch. Once the notch closes, the hinge breaks and is no longer steering the tree.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

arojay

Not making any fun!  Humboldt saves scaleable wood.  Bigger the tree the bigger the notch.  Conveniently, the butt can end up on the ground a bit earlier in the process.  A few different advantages there.
440B skidder, JD350 dozer, Husqvarnas from 335 to 394. All spruced up

David B

The original Humboldt was a square block face. A flat tall vertical back wall increases flex and hinge time in brittle redwood (like cedar).

I think the current evolution helps with terrain...but it's also fast. Two cuts and the face falls out on its own, third and it's going down. Watch how fast western guys drop tree after tree. The wood isn't as valuable as eastern, time is money, volume is money. Trimming butts takes time, especially if they are big. 
Machine and welding shop day job, trees after work.

Ianab

Yeah, Humbolt notch is a valid cutting method. I can see where it would be beneficial in steep terrain and large flared stumps, because it puts the notch in the angled grain flare of the log, which probably needs to be trimmed off anyway. The butt log then has a nice flat face. 

It's more about knowing the different (safe) methods of cutting, and then applying the one that best suits what you are cutting. 
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

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