B20 Trouble

[TGS]

Recently my speed control has gotten, "spongy" for lack of better terms. The head used to respond the second i started to turn the dial, but now its slow to respond, sometimes getting past 1 before abruptly starting forward. To start a slow advance I have to back up further than normal, turn up the dial to get forward motion, then throttle it back. Reverse doesn't have this issue. Hydraulic pressure seems fine, not building first like its under load or anything. Reservoir is full of fluid. So what gives?

Secondly, I HATE how slow the up/down travel is on this mill. Making deep cuts or making several passes before offbearing kills so much time waiting for the head to make its trip. Has anyone done anything to speed this process up?

Thanks guys.

Martin

[ladylake]

For the head advance maybe check the drive motor and shaft spockets for being loose or sheared keys, do you have the bed rollers greased good. Also there's a set screw that hold the control knob on, make sure it's tight. If all is good the control unit cost about $40 , might try a new one. Yes the head goes up- down slow compared to hydraulic ones like the TK 2000. I watched some vids on youtube and it seems like most mills with electric up-down are about the same speed, maybe a little faster.  I did put on a 1/2 hp motor on mine that maybe goes up faster than the 1/4 hp motor but didn't change the drive sprocket to a bigger size which would speed it up but would mess up the setworks sensor.  If the spockets on the screws had the same number of teeth the sensor could be mounted on those and still work good. Most times something else can be done when the head is going up like turning the cant, stacking lumber etc.  I run 2 up-down switches, one is sping loaded and the other will stay in the up-down position so I don't have to sit there and hold it when the head has to raise a long way. Steve

[TGS]

What about changing the screws to something with less turns per inch? I had thought about changing motor size and/or sprockets but it doesn't sound like the motor size helped you much?

[redbeard]

Iam thinking about going with a higher gear reduction, just thinking though. They are spendy. Wear n tear on acme screws could be a issue. On hydro feed are you holding lever all the way forward then using your speed control knob I have to do that now I think my feed control is wearing out also.

[TGS]

Yeah i've been guilty of not fully engaging the forward control lever but thats not the issue in this case. If its a $40 part I may just swap it out and see if that does it. I was hoping someone had tackled the issue of slow head travel on here. I would really like to speed it up.

[ladylake]

 I've always held the feed control lever all the way forward, never had a problem with feed control except the valve body the on the feed control. It still worked but didn't stop at 0, turned right around in a circle.   Steve

[Meadows Miller]

Gday Martin ,Jeff and Steve

Id replace it Im running a B-20 atm and When im using the feed i set the controler at roughly what i think the mill motor and band  will cope with and feathering the lever to suit  ;) Im still a greenhorn on the b20 only had like 6 days on it so far but im hitting 3000 a day on my own and also doing the saw maint at the end of the day along with docking my own logs and Waiting Waiting Waiting On That BLOODY Forklift  >:( >:( we only have one on site and i took it off em the other day  ;) :D :D :D they also have a habit of stacking packs around the mill which can be a pita but we are getting there .

has any of you blokes had a drama with the key repeatedly falling out off the  tie shaft on the feed works grb screws stuffed but i made my own taper lock key up and pressed it into position  ;) :D and if it comes apart again ill just spot weld the sprocket to the shaft  ;) :D ;D

Regards Chris

[redbeard]

That's some production Chris, doing beams and 2x I will sometimes get those numbers. Yes the drive shaft with set screws on collets and sprockets needs to be maintained, having the vibration from the hydraulic motor so close is main culprit. Steve welded his sprockets, I will one day also. Just doing a few mods on the mill can really speed bf production up for me going cordless and being able to raise log clamp up n down at control seat has helped alot. On the new 2000 can some of you guys elaborate on the mechanics of how TK changed thier design. Is it elect. or hydro powered?

[Ga Mtn Man]

The only thing that is electric is the movable guide roller (and the setworks of course).

[ladylake]

  Yes I tack welded the spockets to the drive shaft years ago, they were shot anyway so nothing to lose and been working good ever since. If I ever have to replace the sprockets the new ones will get tack welded right away. Jeff  The up-down on the 2000 has a hyd cylinder hooked to roller chains and is REAL fast. Chis  3000bf a day is good with a helper, not going to happen here by myself being 60 now.   Steve

[Ga Mtn Man]

   The up-down on the 2000 has a hyd cylinder hooked to roller chains and is REAL fast.   Steve

It's actually a hydraulic motor.

[ladylake]

Paul  Are you sure, I remember seeing a long cylinder inside a square tube hooked to the up down chains on my brothers 2000 but I've been wrong before.  Steve

[Ga Mtn Man]

Steve,  you are right.  I was thinking of the carriage motor.  Sorry. :-[

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Yeah Im mainly sawing 2x and the 3000 day had about 1/3 6x6 and 8x8 beams in it  ;) the 2x is all either 2x8 or 2x6" in 6-8-10 & 12' logs the 6's are a pita Im sawing all on my own but im on site for about 10hrs a day too with about 1.5 hrs driving a day moneys money  ;)  :D and its helping get my new site and a new mill set up there  ;) Im on it basicly fulltime 4 or 5 days a week till christmass and will keep doing it for a day or two most weeks so im not taking cash to live off out of my business in the restart phase  ;)

Also with the small sprokets like the ones on these mills i dont mind having them welded and just having to grind welds or replace the whole shaft with them when they get wornout theres alot of sawing between new n then like most any mill  ;)

Regards Chris