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Author Topic: heating hot water with a wood stove.  (Read 12931 times)

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Offline r.man

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #40 on: February 06, 2013, 07:35:18 PM »
Most sidearms are piped into the drain tap hole at the bottom of the tank and the hole for the pressure relief which is either high on the side or on the top of the tank. Tee both of these so you can still have a pressure relief and a drain tap. If you have an older tank that doesn't have the separate pressure relief hole then you can tee into the hot water pipe which is always on the top.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

Offline muddstopper

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #41 on: February 06, 2013, 08:03:42 PM »
Muddstopper, you have the same setup I do as far as the stove. To get natural convection circulation I am not sure it would work with both lines going in the top of the tank. I would think the cold would need to come out of the bottom of the tank and return in the top. That way the hot water would be rising and the cold would be flowing down. The same way my OWB works, only in reverse.

I am thinking, but not sure, but doesnt one line in the top of a hotwater heater tank have a tube that goes to the bottom of the tank. Would it work if it does? Either way, I would think I could remove the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and use that for a return. Hot water from heated coil into the top and colder water out the bottom to the heater coils. Now that I think about it, using the drain for a return would probably work best and leave me the other line on top to connect to my conventional water heater. I need to get out the paper napkin and a pencil and start schetching this up.

Edited to add
Then I scroll down and see thats exactly what r.man said.

Online WH_Conley

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #42 on: February 06, 2013, 10:43:09 PM »
Sounds like r.man has it pegged. I didn't think about taking the T&P valve out.
Bill

Offline muddstopper

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #43 on: February 08, 2013, 12:18:41 PM »
I think I have this thing figured out. The usable front to back area or my stove measures 34in long by 18in high. I plan on cramming in as much 1/2 soft copper pipe as I can in this area. I will enclose the pipe inside of a steel/sheet metal housing just to protect it from a careless piece of wood or other from bumping into it.  The pipe will have inlets and outlet at the top and bottom facing back toward the chimney. The top line will go to the relieve valve side of the water heater tank, the bottom line to drain valve of the water heater. I will use tees to keep the relief and drain valves functionable. I will connect the top in/out of the water heater as it would normally be installed, fresh water in, hot water out. The hot water coming out of the tank I will connect to my regular hot water heater. This way, any hot water that is used from my electrically connected water heater should be replaced with hot water from my wood heated hot water heater. Hot water used from the wood heated tank will be replaced from my fresh water supply.  I will probably also add a check valve to prevent the hot water from the wood heated tank from creeping into my cold water system. I Will have to elevate my wood heated tank a few inches off the ground just to get the drain line to the same height as the bottom inlet of my preheater. The relief valve connection will be a couple of feet higher than the top of the preheater. I think this should allow enough height for natural convection to occur.

 If this works out, I will probably install some sort of recirculation pump between the two water heater tanks. Since i wouldnt want to recirculate the water in the summer time I would need to install a cutoff switch or unhook the pump in the summer time. That is until I get my solar water heater collectors installed. I plan on a solar system large enough to heat the whole house which would lower my wood use and make my wood heated water heater obsolete

Offline thecfarm

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #44 on: February 08, 2013, 01:09:37 PM »
Could you put a few other shut offs and deviate it to the solar panels?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline muddstopper

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #45 on: February 08, 2013, 03:21:39 PM »
 I have thought about hooking the solar collectors to the water heater, but it will mean running a long distance of pipeing to get it hooked together. Since my solar panel collectors, once I get them built, will be roof mounted and pretty long way from my water heater, I havent figured out exactly how I will connect it to my water heater. I added on to the house a few years back. When adding on, I also added on to the basement area, ( junk room). This new basement is seperated from my old basement by concrete block. My plans for the solar heating system is to install a large water tank in the new basement and circulate the water from the tank to the collectors, which will be mounted on top of the  roof of the addition. I will install a copper heat exchanger inside the large water tank to keep potable water seperate from the solar collector water. It will be thru this heat exchanger that I plan on attaching to a radiant floor heating system. My water storage tank wont be pressurized, most likely just a rubber lined, insulated, wooden box with a lid. All water pressure will be inside the copper pipe of the heat exchanger and the tubing for the radiant heat system. A square box with large lid will make installing the heat exchanger tubing a lot easier than trying to coil it inside of a metal or plastic tank. Anyways, it a work in progress and although I have a picture in my head of how it will work, I havent really worked out all the details. I can certainly see the benefit of connecting the solar collectors to the hot water heater and can also see that if done right, my wood heater can supplement the solar heater when the sun aint shining.

Offline muddstopper

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #46 on: February 17, 2013, 07:40:01 PM »
Started building my preheater to go on my stove. If this works, the first pic is of the heat exchanger. I built this out of 1/2" copper pipe and used 90deg els to to make the bends. The elbows makes sure I didnt kink the pipe. Dimensions are 18" x 32". 30ft pipe total plus the elbows. I bend a piece of 26ga glavanized sheet metal to have a 1 1/2" lip all the way around. I took some 1"x3/4" alum channel and clamped it together and drilled 5/8" holes thru where the channel came together. This resulted in a hlaf of a 5/8" hole in each half of the channel. These half holes where used as saddles for the copper pipe to set in. I then capped with a strip of galvanized metal to hold the pipe in the saddles. I used machine screws to hold the sheet metal, saddle and strip together.


 

The second pic is of the preheater just propped up against the stove. I have to fab a couple of mounting brackets to attach to heater, but for now its just propped up with a couple of sticks of wood for a pic. Next wkend, I will attach to the waterheater tank i will be using to store the hot water.


 

Since I had to buy everything new, I will have about $200 in this when it is finished. This includes all the copper pipe, sheet metal, and then the expensive stuff, the fittings to connect to the storage tank and then into my electric water heater. I figured the cooper pipe would be a bank buster, but it turns out, its the fittings that will put you in the poorhouse. If this cuts the hotwater part of my electric bill in half, it should just about pay for itself by the end of this winter. Since all of my heat is supplied by the wood stove, it wont take but the next power bill to see if it was
worth it.



 

Offline muddstopper

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #47 on: February 17, 2013, 08:04:53 PM »
Hole cutter I used to cut the 5/8 holes in the alum channel.

 

These cutters are made to use in a drill press and use a spring plunger to push the cut metal out of the bit. I have found that replacing the plunger with a drill bit allows for cutting thin metal with a hand drill possible. Bit sizes are 1/2 thru 7/8 in this set.

Offline r.man

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #48 on: February 17, 2013, 08:32:29 PM »
Mudstopper, galvanized metal touching the copper will cause corrosion, this is why copper pipe straps are plastic, copper or other metal covered in plastic or paint. This might be one of the reasons that heating coils are copper and aluminum. For a bit more money you can buy copper all band.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

Offline muddstopper

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #49 on: February 18, 2013, 09:06:13 AM »
r.man, I had never heard of that happening. Thanks for the tip. What is it that causes the corrosion, the zinc? What I will probably do is just split a piece of the leftover copper pipe, flatten it out and use it for the band. Or i could just take another piece of the 1x3/4 alum channel and drill it to make a cap.

Offline r.man

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Re: heating hot water with a wood stove.
« Reply #50 on: February 18, 2013, 09:46:31 AM »
Dissimilar metals cause corrosion and some are worse than others. Galvanized and copper are particularly bad. I know this from seeing copper pipe in long term contact with all band strapping and furnace duct work.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014


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