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Log Preservation

Started by OldGoat, September 18, 2014, 12:30:49 PM

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OldGoat

Newbe questions....Ive had to put a purchase of a sawmill on hold for the time being. Now, whats the best way to preserve my maple logs till I can get someone to mill them. No inside storage at the moment. Should I cover them? Should I do something to the ends ? Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

LittleJohn


  • Get them off the ground
  • Paint the ends, regular paint works if you have it or can read elsewhere on the forum about products specifc designed for sealing ends of logs
  • ...may want to consider getting bark of logs, as it may be a home for bugs

I generally do not cover logs, just lumber; I figured the tree survived from Xxx years with just bark and no roof, it will last a few months maybe years with no roof

customsawyer

If it is high quality logs I would not use paint. Paint makes it difficult for the sawyer to read the log. Use anchor seal or something similar.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: customsawyer on September 18, 2014, 07:09:18 PM
If it is high quality logs I would not use paint. Paint makes it difficult for the sawyer to read the log. Use anchor seal or something similar.

Jake is right...even ANCHOR SEAL....(the best IMO) comes in different colors. I bought the red and sometimes if I paint to much on it, its hard to read the grain when Quarter Sawing. I'll get the clear next time.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

bandmiller2

The biggie is to get them well off the ground in a location with good air movement. Keep grass and weeds cut around them. As soon as the bark loosens peel it off. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

FarmingSawyer

Seal it up and good air flow is key....As maple ages it can loose that white glow and get some funky reds, grey's and spalting which is pretty. But I've sawed maples which have been down for a good long time and not been disappointed.
Thomas 8020, Stihl 039, Stihl 036, Homelite Super EZ, Case 385, Team of Drafts

OldGoat

Thank you all for the great advice. Logs are now off the ground and I will be looking for "anchor seal".

schmism

you can always go old school and toss them in a pond
039 Stihl 010AV  NH TC33D FEL, with toys

scsmith42

If Anchorseal, you want to purchase Anchor Seal Classic - not Anchor Seal II.  You can buy it online from US Coatings.

Alternatively, you can buy Bailey's End Sealer from Baileys-online.com (unfortunately they are a "former" sponsor).  I'm not sure if any of our current sponsor's sell end sealer or not.

I prefer the winter formula, as you don't have to worry about it going bad if it freezes.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Dave Shepard

You can always cut 1/2" off of the end before sawing. That will give you a nice fresh end to work with. What's the difference between Anchorseal and Anchorseal2?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

drobertson

You could wax the ends, then scrap off when ready to saw, although a sealer is good,  just costly if not going to use it often or that much of it.  How long will they sit?  I lost some good maple waiting too long. It seems to spalt sooner than other wood types.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Brad_bb

I'd keep them shaded if you could- out of the sun so that they don't cook.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

scsmith42

Quote from: Dave Shepard on September 21, 2014, 08:40:18 PM
You can always cut 1/2" off of the end before sawing. That will give you a nice fresh end to work with. What's the difference between Anchorseal and Anchorseal2?

About three years ago US Coatings decided to come out with a new version of AS that did not have as much petroleum products in it.  They did this in order to control costs when oil was rapidly increasing in price.

Unfortunately it takes multiple coats of ASII to do what one coat of AS would do.  In the end I've found that it not only cost me more overall (due to increased material use), the ASII product does not provide as durable of protection as the original AS (Classic).

The bowl turners really don't care for it either.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

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