Daily Fabrication Thread

[newoodguy78]

I'm not sure what's better your fab skills or your painting skills. Looks great. 

[mike_belben]

thats the ticket for a skid steer to bring wood out, as long as you can set the brakes or chock it good enough.  hills dont look like any sort of concern in your region.  looks great. 

[Walnut Beast]

The little log trailer seems to work good. Easy to load, unload, hookup and unhook with the pintle hitch. Handles the weight fine with some 28" 24' walnut logs

 

[thecfarm]

I see someone else works in the dark.
I cut down the trees and twitch them out in the dark.
I had my boss call me one night when it was dark. Well he called the wife. She said he's outside working. Boss said, don't he know it's dark out?  :  

[mike_belben]

Ya just feel your way down the bog road by braille ray?  

;D

[thecfarm]

Head lamps really help in the dark.   ;D
The only time was a little scary was when it started to snow in the dark. I had no idea where I was at times coming out of the woods. 

[Walnut Beast]

Absolutely! Give me a headlamp and I'm ready to go. Your hands are free and you can really get stuff done. 320 lumens in a led head lamp is like daylight 

[barbender]

Ray can tell where he's at by individual rocks😊

[newoodguy78]

He's got names for every one of them.  ;D

[barbender]

"Ayup, there's Ethel. 8 more rocks and I'm home"😁

[aigheadish]

I think this counts as fabrication... I'm building my own golf putter! 

I've been thinking about it for several months now, and I've seen some other folks do it. When I went and priced new putters last season they were in the $100-200 range, too much! Welp, I've got some fancy hardwoods sitting around awaiting a project so I grabbed what I believe to be Bubinga, which seems very dense and hard as can be, so I think it'll work well.





I drew out the design after looking at all the rules and regulations for PGA spec'd putters (surprisingly complex!) and cut out my design to use as a template. Then, I bandsawed out the design and found that either that wood is incredibly hard, or I need a new bandsaw blade (maybe both), it was slow going. 





Next, after some premature sanding, I started removing wood. I wasn't smart enough to get the wood to good working dimensions (and squared up) prior to cutting it, so I had to remove about a half inch of wood from the top. To do that I decided to make my drill press into a mini-router sled, which turned out effective, but scary enough I went to a chisel. 



 



 

The chisel produced some pretty garbage results, so I got the guts to use the drill press as a mill to remove about 1/32" at a time to make the groove to scoop the ball up (when I miss those 6" putts), hopefully that works. 



 



 

I have lots of sanding to do to make it more pretty and curvy. I also plan to add some lead weights inside the putter and add a brass plate to the face and bottom, we'll see how that all goes. So far it seems to be going well, knowing my penchant for procrastination it'll likely be a while before it's done, and golf season is still several months out. I'll update as I go along.

[thecfarm]

Little off on the eight rocks, that's only about 100 feet.  :(

[logman81]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[fabandfirewood]

 

 

 

 

 

can you explain how you built the conveyor?

[logman81]

All built from raw steel

[lshobie]

I made this during the summer - worked great!  
             https://youtu.be/mnrOjxFh62g           

[HemlockKing]

Did you hold onto any of the big reds you had in your videos? IIRC I saw a video of you swamping on a 250 BR. My favorite bikes, 300 hondas are great too

[lshobie]

No we moved onto the 300 fourtrax, needed the 4x4 for trapping.  Thanks for watching!

[Jkauffman]

I don't know if this really fits in this thread but here goes.

Have any of y'all ever added a return "hole" to a metal hydraulic tank?Im needing to run a case drain in and have no holes other than the return line which is not really recommended.It would definitely be best to filter the case drain to so I may add a filter head.How can I drill a hole with out filling the tank with shavings?Also is there weld on bungs?Do  I need to run it in below the fluid level to avoid foaming/bubbles?Thanks

I may just take it to a machine shop and let them ha e the headache

[mike_belben]

get a filterhead from surplus center or JM ellsworth, agri supply, rural king etc.

get an NPT threaded black iron pipe nipple to match it. grind the entire weld area before drilling.  use a hole saw that matches the nipple, grease it and place a magnet close by underneath on the tank. cut on slow speed and juuust before the saw breaks through, remove holesaw and use a drift pin through the pilot hole to twist and wrench the entire center puck out of the hole.  that way theres no chips going inside.  dont worry about the torn metal on the perimeter, just moosh it down, stuff the cut in half pipe nipple in there and welderup, itll melt any remaining chip. 

 thread on the filter head, install the case drain and off to the races.  

[mike_belben]

Made the start of a mount adapter to hang my skidding attachment on the dozer today.  Its goofy looking because it grew outside of its purpose by necessity.. The attachment that is.   it still fits my deere 140 homemade front mount hitch and a cat1 three point in addition to the dozer.  









Its 1x4 solid steel arms and 3/8thick square 3-1/4 tube bolted where the hitch was. I need an m20x2.0 tap and bolts to use any more mount holes on the rear end

Was easy to get on there other than pushing wrong button and lowering a 400lb spike onto my foot yesterday.





Hopefully get the rest figured out tomorrow. This is just to get me by for a while.  12v winches on a 24v system. 

[Dangerous_Dan]

Mike-

The bolts on the back of a komatsu dozer are M20 X 2.5 NOT 2.0

Too bad you so far away, I have that size tap and die in my shop.

I know this cuz I have 3 of those dozers and 1 for parts.  8)

[mike_belben]

Really? I dont have a metric thread pitch gauge but my calipers landed right on 2mm thread peaks on the hitch bolt i pulled out.  I will find a standard to calibrate them and try a few pairs. 

Im glad i didnt have any money to order the wrong tap.  Thanks for saying something!  

Is your reverse sluggish to engage when cold?

[Dangerous_Dan]

Reverse is fine on the 3 dozers of mine that are running.
I think there is an adjustment for how fast the clutch packs lock up.
Do you have the service manual?
I have it if you need some info.

[mike_belben]

I do have the pdf on my phone. Thanks.

This is only when cold.  If its running mine will always go forward immediately but reverse will not engage in any gear at any rpm until it wants to.. Generally once warmed.  If it stays warm itll always work but i have to park for moving forward when cold.  Going forward helps get reverse sooner.  

Once it works its flawless and strong.  Its not in the linkages or the gear/direction selector valve on top, ive been thru all that.  Seems a servo piston or some spring loaded or pressure balanced control spool has leakage.  Warming probably seals it up enough to function.  I knowits some sort of shuttled control spool blocking fluid to the reverse planet until the spool shifts, not the actual reverse planetary.  Itll pull a house backward once the planetary gets full pressure.  You can feel it starting to tense the track while waiting for it to engage and then bang shes in gear and off to the races strong as ever. 


Someday itll break all the way and force me to find it. Hopefully a long ways off!