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Processor Build, Home Made Firewood Processor

Started by Higgo, June 19, 2014, 11:07:21 PM

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Oliver1655

Looks Good!  Keep the photos coming.

I guess I am lazy.  I would have drilled the large hole first then used a transfer punch to mark the flange holes after inserting the pump into the large hole.  A whole lot less brain strain for me.
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

Higgo

Made the motor mount for the in feed conveyor today. Managed to spend a couple of hours working out shafts/bearings for the conveyor chain and drive; I'll get those ordered so I can assemble the conveyor. Fitted a new water pump to the engine today as well... I've had the new one in a box for over a year so I thought I had better fit it!

Couple of photos of the conveyor motor mount:







Comments and Feedback are welcome!

lopet

Quote from: Higgo on May 18, 2015, 12:46:43 AM
because they are a tool which you only come across if you've worked in industry???.

ok, I know I havn't, so I am exused.   I am just amazed about the accuracy how you cut those holes  smiley_thumbsup
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

Higgo

Thanks for the compliment! The height gauge certainly makes a difference in regard to layout and overall part quality.

Today I laser cut some test sprockets for my conveyor drive. The used sprockets that came with my chain appear to be slightly incorrect in pitch.... Very annoying!!! To add to the frustration the conveyor chain I bought second hand is S45 agricultural chain. No big deal except that it has a pitch of 1.63" so sprockets only come in certain sizes. Used solidworks and a program called sprocketeer to create the DXF files necessary to cut my specific sprockets. I then cut some test 'templates' from perspex exactly the same sizes as if they were cut from steel. Took about 5 mins total to cut them all from start to finish. This way I'll be able to test the fit up and clearances before I get the sprockets cut at a local laser cutter. I'll buy the weld-in hubs to suit my 1.5" shafts and the 3/4" conveyor motor shaft then weld the hubs into the sprockets. I also intend to get a couple of quotes from local sprocket places to compare and if the costs are prohibitive for the larger sprockets I'll make them myself instead of buying them... (I have a feeling that the quotes might run into the high hundreds of dollars)

The conveyor chain sprockets are 40 tooth skip pitch 1.63" approx 11" dia.
Conveyor drive sprockets are 9 tooth ANSI 60 (about 2.5") and 63 tooth ANSI 60 (about 17.5") respectively, gives a 1:7 reduction ratio.


I was very tempted to give my pantograph cutter I posted previously a try using a perspex sprocket template but unfortunately the 'cutter comp' is larger than the tooth profile.... might make for some odd shaped tooth profiles!

I'll try and get some quotes soon and should then be able to decide which path to proceed down.

I might even get the height gauge out again and try marking out and drilling the sprockets manually!...... :D

I attached a photo of all the laser cut templates (it's hard to photograph something clear!).
If anyone knows how to embed an MP4 video using the gallery option here can you post/link the instructions?
(I only ever seem to notice youtube etc vids so maybe there's no option to embed?) I have a short video of the laser cutter in action.

Comments and questions are welcome!
See if you can guess the function of the square holes in the conveyor drive sprocket....



beenthere

Think just putting the video on YouTube and linking to that is the way to go. Much simpler, and apparently less server used up for the Forum.. if I understand correctly.
Interesting build. Keep us posted.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Higgo

I've uploaded the short laser cutting video to youtube. It's not spectacular footage but I thought some of you may find it interesting.

https://youtu.be/qscI0j-fZ34

Comments and questions are welcome!

North River Energy

So today I finally wired in my new/used bigger better milling machine.

Then you play the laser-cutter card.
Cheater. :D

Ahead full!

Higgo

Tried out the sprocket templates over the weekend... I must have done something right because they all fitted perfectly!!! I've sent my DXF files off to a laser cutting firm for a quote, so hopefully, if they respond with something reasonable price wise, I'll have them cut. That should get the conveyor/conveyor drive completed.

After many years of grinding rusty steel, I bought a cheap sandblasting cabinet to clean up some parts. I forever seem to be working with used steel and was getting pretty tired of grinding 10 or 12 small pieces to clean them up before welding. The cabinet should speed the process up a little.

Incase anyone is wondering in one of the photos you can see a close up of the tooth profile. The chain I'm using  is 'skip link' S45 agricultural chain meaning the pitch is 'doubled' and a link is therefore skipped.... hence the 'empty' tooth.

I've included a couple of photos for interests sake. Comments and questions are welcome!!!









Comments and questions are welcome!!!

Higgo

The local laser cutter shop replied with a lower than expected quote for my sprockets (about $170 AUS). They'll be using one of their plasma cutters to cut the sprockets from 12mm and 20mm HA250 plate. If I ever wear the sprockets out I'll just get them re-cut.  Hopefully they'll be ready to pick up next week sometime! I've decided to buy the small conveyor drive sprocket, by the time I priced the weld in hub, plus cutting, I could get one locally at a lower cost. Comments and feedback are welcome!

Higgo


Higgo

Received the weld in sprocket hubs in the mail but haven't had much time to work on the machine lately. Hoping to have a bit more time a couple of weeks from now. I purchased some replacement parts for the Mazda truck chassis from the wreckers; namely a complete front brake set-up (the original front brakes were very rusted and needed rebuilding) and a spare wheel stud and nut to replace a broken/ missing one. The second hand front brake set up was $500, which I think was probably still cheaper than me trying to rebuild cylinders/re-manufacture all the steel lines... not to mention that I probably needed to replace at least double that in new parts. I hope to fit these up in a couple of weeks.Below is a photo of one of the hubs/sprockets. Comments and questions are welcome!



lopet

I am always amazed what this laser technology is capable to do.
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

Higgo


Higgo

Worked on the machine a little yesterday. Finished fabricating the additional support for the front of the conveyor where the sprocket shaft mounts. I chose to use a 3 bearing support here, I think the forces on the shaft would have been excessive if only 2 bearing were used. This set-up makes the shaft more difficult to align however using mostly materials I've had on hand I only had to purchase 1 P208 bearing housing and a 1.5" bearing to go with it, the other parts being salvaged from scrapped machines. I built everything in-situ using squares and measured everything numerous times and it all seems to align correctly. If alignment ever becomes an issue I can remove the centre bearing housing and run the shaft as is, albeit overloaded.

I welded the hubs into the sprockets and then cut the second-hand shafting I have to the correct lengths. I piece already had a key-way milled into it so I cut the driven shaft to length so as the key-way was in the correct position. The longer drive shaft has one key-way in the correct position, however I'll have to get another milled this week some time. Hoping to have all the convey components together sometime next week.
















lopet

Looking good  8)
Your are a patient man !
Just thinking of all my projects who would made live easier if they're ever get accomplished, while I am still doing things the hard way.
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

Higgo

Assembled the conveyor shaft yesterday. Working on the conveyor motor mount at the moment. I did get the machine on it's wheels and give it a quick clean...  also allowed me to clean the shed floor of all the grinding grit and dust. I expect to have a full day welding up the entire frame next week. then I'll start work on the log clamping arm.  Hope to have more pictures up soon.











TeaW

TeaW

archertwo

Finally a rolling chassis. :D
I don't know if you've already said or not but will you be adding a log deck to the processor?
Husqvarna 254XP x3
Red Max 5300 x3
Kubota 62 & 85 HP two 203T loaders on 9 Ton wagons one with a 40LF PATU delimber & GMT 035 felling head
homemade firewood processor
www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxLwTiRxf3c
www.youtube.com/watch?v=O01xr7dVAAA
Road Trail 7X12-14,000## Dump Trailer

Higgo

Thanks! Yes I will be adding a log deck, I've just drawn all the log deck parts up in and will send the files off to be cut shortly. The deck is very similar to most other processors using roller chain as the feeding mechanism. Out of interest what size motors do other people use on their log decks?

archertwo

I used a 23.3 cu. in. Geroler motor from Princess Auto.
I wanted the slowest (154 RPM) motor I could get that would do the job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxLwTiRxf3c
Husqvarna 254XP x3
Red Max 5300 x3
Kubota 62 & 85 HP two 203T loaders on 9 Ton wagons one with a 40LF PATU delimber & GMT 035 felling head
homemade firewood processor
www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxLwTiRxf3c
www.youtube.com/watch?v=O01xr7dVAAA
Road Trail 7X12-14,000## Dump Trailer

johndeerkiwi

@ Higgo,
             I hope your'e having a good Christmas beak, and it's great to see your progress on your processor.
I see some time ago you were asking about valves for activating your chainsaw motor. You are probably already on to this, but the important thing is to make provision for you motor to over-run. That is, when you stop the oil supply to the motor suddenly, you need to provide for  the motor to quickly wind down to a stop rather than suddenly "hit a brick wall". The inertia in a motor forced to stop instantly can (will) create a spike that can destroy your motor or blow hoses or valves.

As a chainsaw motor only rotates in one direction, the most common way to achieve this is to simply use standard valves to work the motor, but additionally, connect the motor's inlet hose up to it's outlet hose with a short pipe between the two, with a one way valve in the line. When running the motor, this one way valve will be held closed, but when the oil supply is shut off suddenly, the valve will be forced open by the oil exiting the motor. This will allow the oil to continue to flow momentarily through the motor, and around in a circle while the motor spins down to a stop.
A standard one way valve is likely all that you will need, they typically open at about 5 to 10 psi. But if you find the motor runs on for too long you can fit a one way valve with a slightly higher opening pressure, say 25 psi, which will put more resistance on the over-running motor and stop it quicker)

The only other common way of doing this is to use motor spool valves that effectively do the same thing (They go from oil under pressure to "float" when in the "off" position).
"Many a man has failed to see what is too simple for a complicated mindset, and too inexpensive for an unlimited budget"

Higgo

Sorry about the lack of updates. Work and study commitments really caught up with me the last couple of months! On the bright side, I have completed every other project I had sitting in the workshop and now have some time to spend on the processor again!

I picked up some laser cutting a while back for the log deck 'arms'... namely the pivoting points with integrated bearing adjusters. I've got the bearings and housings already and had some small shafts machined to allow each 'arm' of log deck to be driven by a single hydraulic motor. (3 arms, one motor) Each 'arm' has an independent leg that supports it when it's folded down, so in theory, a small amount of unlevel ground shouldn't matter. Yesterday I managed a couple of hours welding and got the pivots and adjusters welded on either end of each log deck arm.

The arms mount to the side of the conveyor that runs the length of the truck chassis (see the photo of it a few posts back) and fold up when not in use. I'll probably make the arms fold up using a 12V winch. I'll try and put some photos of the arms up when they are fitted to the side of the machine... should make it a little easier to understand. johndeerekiwi, I'm using a danzco saw and their manifold effectively compensates for all you have described. It can use either a cylinder or motor spool valve. For anyone else that's interested check out there website... some very interesting reading!

I should add, the pivot pins are 1.5" and the bearing housings are F208 with 1.5" bearings to hold the driven shafts. I kept the pivot pins and the driven shafts as separate items to save on bearings and housings instead of incorporating them, if it were a smaller number or smaller size I would have made the one part do both functions, which would make for a nicer (although more expensive) design. Sometimes cost wins out!

Comments and questions are welcome!










lopet

You're sure putting a lot of thoughts in this build.   smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup .... and good looking welding beats too.
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

Higgo

Made a start on the top log roller this weekend. Took me 2 hours to get the old shaft out of the ancient steel roller... but it eventually came loose (with lots of heat and pounding from the sledge hammer!). Intending to use the roller on the top of log being cut instead of a clamp. In theory it should save some time because the roller will be driven and thus can keep the log constantly clamped while it is fed forward instead of having to be raised and lowered. After watching many processor videos this seems to the simplest way to gain a few seconds on each cut.

I had the brackets laser cut and the other parts I fabricated using merchant bar and holesaws. I bushed the arms using some 1.5" water pipe, welded the busing in, then drilled the bushing to 1.5" using a large 1.5" reduced shank drill bit. It definitely worked better than I expected it to! The arms will be hydraulically raised/lowed when changing to a new log.

I've attached a few photos that hopefully explain it a little more clearly.

Comments and questions are welcome!










lopet

Weld some chain sprockets on that top roller to get a better bite.



 
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

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