TimberKing jack question

T_in_SC · February 14, 2005, 09:58:16 AM

Have been giving some thought to converting my ground model mill into a trailer model or either building a trailor model from scratch. It seems that the jacks that TimberKing uses would be ideal for quick setup, but I wonder about stability and durability. Would appreciate any comments from users of TimberKings or any other mills with similar support jacks.

Dan_Shade · February 14, 2005, 10:14:00 AM

5000 lb: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200154824&R=200154824

2000 lb: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200154724&R=200154724

if you use this type, make sure the pin is verticle where you attach it, or it will wobble from side to side.

MrMoo · February 14, 2005, 10:25:43 AM

T,
I have a Logmaster sawmill that has the same type of crank jacks. I think they work great. Its very quick to level the mill.
Mike

fstedy · February 14, 2005, 11:16:10 AM

Haven't had any problems on the B-20, they work great here in

;D :D FLATLAND :D ;D

KENROD · February 14, 2005, 11:21:50 AM

I have a TK B20. The sidewind jacks make setup easy. I havn,t had any problems with them(plenty strong and durable) Except when I popped the cap off of one and didn,t notice it. They fill up with sawdust real fast. :

;)

Back40x2 · February 14, 2005, 08:57:08 PM

I have the TK1600, and have had no probs what so ever!!!!!! 8) 8) 8)

T_in_SC · February 14, 2005, 10:22:02 PM

[Dan_Shade

if you use this type, make sure the pin is verticle where you attach it, or it will wobble from side to side.]

Good Point. Thanks for the tip and links.

Furby · February 15, 2005, 12:39:43 AM

Been meaning to post these for some time now.
Might as well post it here. :

I made six of these for my mill. I had several differet ideas, but none really did what I wanted. I needed something that the mill head would pass over, and still not hang down below the mill for clearence reasons while moving the mill. Was going to have the jacks attached to the frame and just swing back, but had problems with the way my frame is made. Gave this a shot and am happy so far.
The size of the angle can be changed based on the size of your frame. When I want to move the mill, I just lower the jacks and toss them in the back of the truck. I can move them up and down the length of the bed if ever needed.

Best part is.......the jacks were $14+tax on sale at Harbor Freight's store. 2k capacity per jack, already a lip on the jack plate to weld the angle to.

RacinRex · February 16, 2005, 08:54:20 AM

Very similar setup that I applied to my Simplicity sawmill. It came on a trailer but with it on the axles the bed sat too high for me to set ramps and push logs up on. I purcased some at Tractor Supply co. then I cut the L shaped mounting bracket so that it was flat.... welded them on the inside of my frame rails. Now when I get where I'm going... I pull the pins and swing the rear jacks down and lift until the tires are off the ground. I release the two bolts on the X and drop it down... roll it out until its between my tounge jack and my front set of rail jacks.... put he front set of rail jacks down until they touch and raise the tounge jack and finish rolling the axle away from the mill... Takes me about 5 minutes if I have realatively flat land to work on. I'm set up and ready to roll at that point. 2 or 3 minutes with an old 4 foot level I throw behind the seat in my work truck and I've got the whole bed about as level as it can be... i always check with the level at morning warm up and during lunch. They are somewhat rugged and very generic. If one fails There are TSC's everywhere in this area I'll go pick one up.

T_in_SC · February 17, 2005, 10:28:54 AM

Thanks ya'll, for your responses. It seems everyone is satisfied with this kind of setup.

chet · February 18, 2005, 08:32:41 PM

This is how I set up the jacks on my Norwood. They are permanently attached, and tuck in really well for transport. I had to put some additional bends in the crank handle for clearance reasons. As you can see in the photos the sawhead has no clearance problems with the jacks up or down.

Furby · February 18, 2005, 10:18:00 PM

Looks great Chet!
Did you just use regular washers, or find some of the dished out ones?

I kinda felt I had too many things in the way, but I see you did leave your screw leveling feet on.

Want to share some info on your other additions?
I see an exstension, toe board, and flip up dogs. Did you make all three?

chet · February 18, 2005, 11:16:35 PM

The mill is set up to cut 18' 6". I built two additional sqaring arms and clamps to deal with the added length. Three toe boards were also added. The toe boards are manual but work great. I have lifted one end of a 16', 30" dia. red oak by myself.