Franklin 132 - winch driveline and DD 3-53 Question

[JBMac76]

Evening,

I'm finally making progress on transforming my Franklin 132 cable skidder into a herbicide site-prep applicator. I've been in the spray business for many years, so I have the spray part of the equation figured out. A couple of questions if any Franklin or Detroit Experts could kindly chime in.

I have several options for powering the Hypro Centrifugal pump: 
1. Simple Honda 5hp gas engine, its a pretty compact setup.
2. Same pump is available powered by a high speed hydraulic motor. It needs 7gpm flow and can handle up to 3000 psi. My skidder was purchased missing the blade and controls. I'm thinking this would be a good option to power the pump with the valves, etc.(no small engine maintenance, gasoline to carry, etc.) I'm sorry I don't know what type of main pump is mounted to the back of the engine, there are no markings or plates that I can see. I'm wondering if it would flow enough to run the pump and not affect the steering?
3. I sold the winch off the machine. It's possible I could power the pump with the winch driveshaft, but I don't know what type of RPM's the shaft runs at. I assume it is gear-reduced from the engine through the transfer-case, or does the transmission have any affect on it's output speed? I have a spare centrifugal pump that we use on tractors, it has a small gearbox that speeds the 540 tractor PTO output speed up to 2500 to run the pump.

Now the 3-53 DD question: I'm performing an in-frame rebuild. I CANNOT get the sleeves to budge! The Detroit Diesel manual recommends a puller or a "block of wood" to hammer them out from the bottom. All the YouTube videos I've seen and research I've done on this site show them being removed easily. I've built a puller, pounded on them, cursed them; they won't budge. The motor is clean inside, no more rust than to be expected in coolant system, airbox has a typical film of of black oil. What gives?


Sorry for the long post- any help is much appreciated.

[BargeMonkey]

Piece of threaded rod, some nuts, couple flat plates, couple blocks of wood, just dont jack anywhere where your steel to steel on the top of the deck. They do come out. 

[mike_belben]

I think id just run the honda pump and not add extra heat to the hydraulics. 

[JBMac76]

I didn't think about the extra heat on the hydraulic system, I knew I would get some expert advice on here!

[mike_belben]

whoa whoa easy on the E word.  experts need liability policies.  i enjoy being free to give bad advice for no charge with full immunity!  


;D

[bushmechanic]

Well with regards to the stuck liners in the 353. The only thing holding them in are two o-rings. They can stick bad if there was water used in the cooling system instead of antifreeze. If you can get a puller plate on the bottom of the liner is the best route to go, if a hard wood block dosen't work then wrap up you crank journal with a rag and use a long piece of brass and pound them out from the underside. Keep in mind that the brass will damage the liner so it will not be reusable, so only use this method if your going with an inframe kit or overhaul kit and you get new liners.

[JBMac76]

Thanks bushmaster. I actually made a puller. As luck would have it, the outer race of a sprag from a GM 7004R transmission has a lip that fits perfectly in the liner while the outer diameter is only about 1/32 from the edge of the outside of the liner. I padded the "legs" with 1/8 aluminum so as not to damage the deck. I'm going to revamp it today using a larger fine-threaded rod and a bearing that fits under nut you torque down on. I've a 3/4" impact that says the liners are coming out or something is gonna break! Luckily I have a spare block.

[mike_belben]

If the motor is out flip the block and oil the bottom of the liners.. The O rings are probably stuck in rust ruts.


You could weld-shrink the liners along the interior like removing a valve seat.   if that doesnt work, id weld a scrap of rebar across each bore and hook a chain to it, lift the block a few inches over a tire, hose it with oil or diesel etc and start beating on the block end for end with a woodblock and small sledge.  The weight of the block hanging from the cylinder plus shock loads will budge it eventually.