DanG-DeadHeader Log Lifter

Fla._Deadheader · April 16, 2011, 10:46:24 AM

If you mount the "lifter frame" on brackets on your rear bumper, and have a way to anchor a set of cables to the bed in the front, that's all you need. When you drag a log to the truck, just before it reaches the bumper, it will start to raise up. As you keep winching, it will then start to move forward. This is where the timing is critical.

IF you stop in time, you reverse the winch, and set the end of the log on the bed. Then, simply move the winch cable further down the log, and repeat the lifting process.

The log will slide right into the truck. If you need to go further, just repeat the process.

When you get the bed full, you can add a second layer and even a third.

Everyone wants to complicate this thing. Like I stated, I made one out of wood. I need to pick up 3 more logs, so, I will TRY to remember to take the camera. These logs are not real big, maybe butt cut is 15" or so, small end. The rest are from the same tree.

Ironwood · May 16, 2011, 09:52:54 PM

Just doing some research, I am doing some "headache poles" (mentioned in this post earlier) modified into a DDLL on the back of my new-to-me F-550 4x4 gasser. I am about done with my "low pro" log bed and movable standards with integrated D rings. The pics will flow in the next few days. I finally got the Hiab 035 knuckle bom operable and fully mounted. My current challenge is I cannot get my truck up into a yard to get a BIG walnut a large retaining wall is where I must STOP. I have to combination winch and lift (or actually unweight the front ) as I bring it to the rear of the truck. To complicate matters the yard leans to a garage beside my truck, so I need a pulley point rear of the rear bumper about 6-8' out and up in the air 6-8'. I dont want the log to roll into the garage :

I have some nice schedule 40 3" pipe (former gasline in a building, so clean and rust free), that will be my material of choice. Additionally, it will be able to be broken down for assembly and transport as needed (add/ modified, ie lengthened or shortened as needed). I also mounted a 12,000 lb Ramsey in the rear "bay" of the truck frame and there will be a 9,000 Ramsey up at the bulkhead by the Hiab. I will also have a "non fixed" fairlead o nthe winch that travels with the direction of pull because on any given day the winch could be pulling in any angle off the spool to about 180 degrees. I have the fairlead assembly and integrated LARGE tail roller (like on oilfield trucks at the rear of the bed). This design/ build is FUN!!!!

Here is a pic of the 550 (blue, about to be white) and the older truck the Hiab came off of (GMC HD3500) The locust in the pic is the biggest and heaviest locust I have ever had here. Likely about 4500-5000lbs. The Hiab only weighs 535KG (1100lbs) but lifts 5500lbs

Ironwood · May 21, 2011, 11:23:23 PM

OK, here are some pics. of my log bed and crane on the "new" to me 550. I did NOT get the DDLL, or "headache poles" as one earlier poster mentioned mounted to the "axle" pictured in the first photo (schedule 120 3" pipe). My metal bandsaw blew a transmission gear, and I needed to get some BIG walnut logs out of a yard (see Urban logging section for those pics). In the other pics, notice the movable standards, which depending on how many logs across I go, can be flipped to stay tight to the logs (narrowest being 33", or widest 90"), fourth pic down shows standard used at the horizontal to satisfy DOT conspicuity tape requirement. Also, internally wired 3/4" marker lights on each box tube. There is a 12,000lb Ramsey at the rear, and a stainless schedule 80 4" roller made with old Oliver jointer bearings (I cant throw things away for things just such as this :

kinda makes my way of living justified). The standards have integrated D Rings and jamb bolts welded right to them. The whole thing is low profile so my military Duece bed can still be mounted as needed. One pics shows me hanging the boy's new basketball hoop this weekend. I still need to fabricate the bulkhead protecter and roof rack above the cab, that will include another Ramsey (9000#). Removable fenders are offf an Army M200 gen trailer, and the rest of the parts reads like a "Sanford and Sons" list :D from just about ANYTHING imaginable.

Ironwood

Red Pill · November 13, 2011, 08:10:11 AM

Might be a foolish question, but how are all of you with a deadheader lifter removing logs from the trailer? I'm going to be in a situation without a tractor or other powered lifting setup. I will usually be able to get logs placed on the trailer, although I'll be building a deadheader in the future. But how are you getting the logs off?

Thanks in advance from a newbie.

zopi · November 13, 2011, 08:19:25 AM

Chain run to a tree or deadman in the ground and drive out from under them...

Dan_Shade · November 13, 2011, 09:50:15 AM

If you are tying against a tree and dragging the trailer out from under the log, be sure to use a binder of some sort to let the load off of the chain, or you will end up with a log on the ground with a chain too tight to let the hooks off. (don't ask me how I learned this....)

metalspinner · November 13, 2011, 10:05:32 AM

Red Pill,
It's my understanding that you use the deadheader in reverse. Loop the log with the deadheader pointed towards the front, then run the winch and pull/lift off the back.

Welcome to the forum!

Fla._Deadheader · November 13, 2011, 10:28:49 AM

QuoteLoop the log with the deadheader pointed towards the front, then run the winch and pull/lift off the back.

Exactly.

beenthere · November 13, 2011, 10:45:41 AM

Red Pill
Welcome to the forum.

Marc Thornton · November 13, 2011, 11:25:00 AM

The method posted here: https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,17613.msg364685.html#msg364685

It uses a snatch block up 7' high in a tree. Then you use the trailers winch to winch it off. Pictures included in that link.

Probably best to read the whole thread from front to back.

zopi · November 13, 2011, 12:41:27 PM

Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 13, 2011, 09:50:15 AM
If you are tying against a tree and dragging the trailer out from under the log, be sure to use a binder of some sort to let the load off of the chain, or you will end up with a log on the ground with a chain too tight to let the hooks off. (don't ask me how I learned this....)

Spoilsport. lol

Red Pill · November 13, 2011, 09:19:05 PM

Quote from: metalspinner on November 13, 2011, 10:05:32 AM
Red Pill,
It's my understanding that you use the deadheader in reverse. Loop the log with the deadheader pointed towards the front, then run the winch and pull/lift off the back.

Welcome to the forum!

Something's missing. I presume you have to have a block attached somewhere behind the trailer (as in the tree in Marc's post).

Thanks for the welcome. I'm learning a lot here already.

Fla._Deadheader · November 14, 2011, 06:14:35 PM

Nothing missing. If you have the arch over-centered toward the front of the trailer, and the arch tied off so it can't tip all the way over, as you put the cable around the log, say, half way near the center of the log, and take up on the winch, it will start to lift the log and then snake it off the trailer.

Obviously, it won't come clear of the end of the trailer, but, just under balancing the log, you can pull on the cable while letting off on the winch, and get much farther off the trailer.

Takes a little thinking- planning, or you get bound up.

Red Pill · November 15, 2011, 02:24:25 PM

Okay. Thanks for the clarification.

Okrafarmer · February 20, 2012, 04:31:15 AM

Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 13, 2011, 09:50:15 AM
If you are tying against a tree and dragging the trailer out from under the log, be sure to use a binder of some sort to let the load off of the chain, or you will end up with a log on the ground with a chain too tight to let the hooks off. (don't ask me how I learned this....)

Only a problem for really huge logs. Otherwise just kick the chain in the middle, and it will loosen. If that doesn't work, tug on it with your hands, sideways, loosening it. If that doesn't work, you have a really huge log, and you may need to roll it sideways a couple times, back and forth, with a peavey until you get the chain loose. Or pry the chain off the end of the log, using the peavey.

Okrafarmer · February 20, 2012, 04:34:09 AM

I used an I-beam system with my GMC 2500, it was too complicated and heavy. I wish I had known about this then. I used a come-along and a trolley on the overhead I-beam. That was about 6 or 7 years ago.

red · March 22, 2019, 01:56:39 PM

The DanG Deadheader loader

red · May 18, 2022, 09:03:23 AM

This was an excellent design for a trailer log arch

red · March 01, 2023, 08:53:01 AM

DanG is most famous for his design of the Log Loader

John Mc · April 07, 2023, 09:44:15 AM

Has anyone ever made a video of the log lifter in action?

red · April 07, 2023, 10:11:51 AM

I believe the YouTube channel . . Matthew Cremona . . has a log trailer with the same design of the Log Arch . . if you go to his play list you will find many videos of his trailer

beenthere · April 07, 2023, 11:27:10 AM

Yes, have seen a few but don't have them saved. Many different renditions of the basic principle.

barbender · April 07, 2023, 11:55:27 AM

I've been watching episodes of, "Port Protection" with my wife and son. It's a show about people living in a very remote southeast Alaska coastal community. They have some innovative ways of getting things done, but when it comes to moving timber and such they would do well getting on the Forestry Forum and seeing some of the methods people have come up with to get logs moved.