I have been researching this topic for over a year now. I have learned a lot from my readings but have no practical experience in milling a log over 20 ft long. There was even an older post in this forum on the topic which was helpful but didn't answer my ultimate question which is what would be the best mill I could purchase in order to mill extra long beams.
I have the ability to bring in nice Douglas Fir logs into my shop area and from the proceeds of my former company I can purchase a new quality mill. My plan is to first mill my own beams for a pavilion project I am working on (2 acre lot cleared and footings already in the ground). I then will produce beams for a couple of nearby timber framing companies that are in need of them fairly regularly, once I have the confidence in my techniques for producing quality beams (my future niche area).
I greatly appreciate any input from the community to help me decide what's the best mill for me to purchase to do this production kind of work in the future. I am overall handy, but I lack the deep knowledge of a Sawyer like so many of you. Thank you.
I've been set up for 57'. Currently good for 45' with my LT40 Super. A Wide Head mill will make life easier. When cutting logs that size I use a forklift to do all the turning. I have dunnage on the ground to take the abuse, then I set the log back on the mill. A concrete pad is almost a necessity, but I've done it on good gravel before.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/IMG_20151028_095845439~2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1618781190)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/1621/bx24_5.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1307496197)
One of my WM LT70s is stretched out to 56'. I've only done a few out to that length but have done thousands around 40'. Getting a mill that will cut that long isn't to hard. I have seen guys do it with LT15 mills with extra track it is just more work than with a hydraulic mill. Things to consider is the amount of stress that can be in a log. If a 10' log has stress in it that a 50' log will have 5X as much. If you have a mill that will cut that long then you need equipment that can load and unload some big logs that will be extremely heavy. If your main target is the timbers you will still need to find a market for the side lumber. When I was making 12x12x40' they would have 480 bf in them. They would produce around 250-500 bf of side lumber per timber. To make a 12x12x12' you need around a 18" top. To get a 12x12x50' you will need a bigger top due to sweep in the log. It is pretty rare when you get to that length that there isn't some sweep some where in the log. For timber frame homes they really like timbers that the faces are square to each other so you need to really have your mill dialed in. These are things just off the top of my head. I'm sure there is more I've forgotten.
DonP does his monsters with an alaskan that keeps going down a repositioned guide. Im sure its not the easiest 50ft beam but ill guarantee its the cheapest.
Otherwise id say ya need a regular bandmill head that walks down 3 beds linked together lagged to a continuos slab. Chain turners on each one. Controls on the head so you walk with it. Theres no way you can see whats going on 50 foot from a fixed operator seat.
Take a look at an Easy Boardwalk 50 set up on concrete add several extensions, and a big loader with a spreader bar setup for turning and handling finished product and waste. LT 15 wide would work as well.
After you mill a handful of beams would you mill for more than your own use? The big manual mills will tie up less dollars and do the same task. Leaving other dollars for other things (supplemental equipment etc).
Purchase of a new mill will have fairly long lead times. Right now lead times are from 6 or 8 months up to 15 months depending upon the manufacturer and model ordered.
I ordered a new mill yesterday, it will be delivered in 2023 unless lead times decrease dramatically.
Thank you all. Very helpful.
Dave Shepard: Wow, beautiful setup. I assume you got WM to customize that for you. Are there hydraulics down the entire bed? Also I planned on making large movements of these length logs with my Kubota SVL97-2 trackloader.
Customsawyer: Lots of good hands on data here. Things that concern me about milling long logs is to understand the log well enough to get it true dimensionally along the entire length. No matter how well I set up the mill, I still lack the experiential knowledge to read a long log which is something I have to acquire I guess by doing a lot of long logs.
BTW, how did you stretch the lT70? Did you buy bed extensions from WM and then added your own hydraulics and lines? Reason I ask is WM doesn't seem to be interested in producing such a custom run right now probably because they are so far behind in regular orders(see below).
Mike_Belben: If I go WM way (fully hydraulic), would I have that option of head mounted controls?
Nebraska: After my own use, the goal is to produce long beams for a couple of different timber framing companies I know.
Sawyer Ted: Ditto. I ordered a Super LT70 in January of 2021 for all my 25 foot or less milling (for me and others) and I'm told I probably won't get it until February or March of this year. At least that's the latest update. The only thing I added to it was a shingle lapsider attachment cause I have a whole lot of shingles to make for my new barn/pavilion (40x70x35 at peak) and a 6 foot bed extension for 25 foot production stuff for others.
That's the bad part about the mills that use the energy chain. They can only extend so far if extensions are needed.
A walk along or ride along mill can go as far as you want.
My mill has a BX24 extension. It just bolts on. The longer mill has ky BX24 and a BX12. All are bolt on, no customization. I have one side support on the extension linked to the mill to save running back and forth. With Command Control you can only use a BX6 extension. I have the wireless remote.
Well if I were you an LT15 Wide with enough track would probably be my choice. You can spend more if you want it really depends on the features you want and the current tools you have. How do you plan to move a 50ft beam?
I used a 1992 LT30 to make beams, lumber and half logs for projects like this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20160219_152322~2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1518924082)
Those are 40' 10x10 vertical beams in the photo.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20180121_143602.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1517457116)
An earlier post mentioned the drive chain, which you can see drooping into the snow.
It slacked onto thin planks that laid were laid on the ground, to keep the chain clean. The chain got a spray of ATF lube every other day.
Words of experience from Dave Shepard:"When cutting logs that size I use a forklift to do all the turning. I have dunnage on the ground to take the abuse, then I set the log back on the mill." I had been turning logs on the mill bed, and found that the side supports were taking a terrible amount of abuse.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20160508_160933.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463193696)
Turning on the ground would take a bit more time, but may be worth it.
If you can't wait for WM to make up some BX24 or 12s for you, you can order parts and fab up your own. Side supports, manual clamp assemblies, manual toe boards are all available from the WM parts department. Remember to use cold rolled and case hardened 1" rod to make the rails.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20150630_192337.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1437501936)
Definitely want a wide head. I've been sawing up some short butt logs, and it's a pain. These butts are what you'll face sawing 50' logs. This one has already had some chainsaw work done on it, and it was not the largest.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/20220119_142634.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1642645434)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20160209_160336.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1455124695)
x2 on the wide.
Dave's chainsaw work is on the right, mine is on the left.
(have you ever seen such an off centre pith, and long too)
Like CustomSawyer said, a guy really starts to appreciate straight logs when you get more than 35' lengths.
Some straight 52'. One advantage of the big butts is you can make up for a slightly less than straight log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/IMG_20151027_101846596.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1445977905)
Andries,not to derail the thread but do you have any more pictures of that project? It looks awesome!
I've been reading along with interest. I think a lot of folks get calls for these long beams from time to time. My part time boss was getting them too. mostly around 40'. He finally ordered an LX25 for these. It was available in August and he picked it up in the fall around October, it's still sitting in the boxes until we make a site for it and pour a pad. I was dubious about the whole thing, but when you think about it, a 40' 8x8 at just $1.50/BF is 320 bucks. A couple of those a day is good side money. ;D
Obviously if you are going to do a lot of these, or make it your 'niche' you should maximize your capabilities, but for the lower quantities a simple basic machine is the more economical way to go. AT least, that's how I think.
Quote from: nopoint on January 19, 2022, 10:02:04 PMAndries,not to derail the thread but do you have any more pictures of that project? It looks awesome!
Full disclosure; my role was to mill Norway pine and Western Red Cedar for the "crew". I'd get texted lists for material needed and do my best with the pickings from the log yard. The crew were very talented woodworkers. I was a complete rookie. Also, I travelled to Georgia to meet that youngster, Jake Dean @customsawyer (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1861) for advice and in doing so, he saved my sorry a$$ all sorts of embarrassment. He's the man!
Here's some of the finished buildings.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/The_Bigg.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1534128235)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Hobbit_House_1_adj~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1584996124)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20170615_145323.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1501719615)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20180122_155154.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1516889323)
Absolutely impressive!!
Andries I have always enjoyed pictures of your projects. I appreciate the compliment. All I really did was share lots of my mistakes so you wouldn't have to make the same ones. You could go out and make your own. :D
HH I started with a 6' extension. With in a couple of months I had requests for longer than I could cut. I was able to read the future a little and just ordered the 24' extension next. I had a connection at WM Indy and just had WM add all of the hdy. functions of a LT40 except the log loader. They asked about the hoses and I told them I would handle that part. A friend had a 12' extension and was going to a remote mill, so I swapped him my 6' extension and some blades for his 12' extension. Now when I went to hook the 12' to the 24' there was some challenges. The top and bottom rail were not drilled and they were about ¾" short so some mods had to take place. I have started a YouTube channel Custom Sawyer and will be posting a video about it in a few weeks or so. Keep a eye out for it or subscribe.
Here it is with a 30' log on it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11861/20210917_094108.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1632054702)
I've milled long beams using a swing blade mill and a crane. One project of some 43 footers is documented here in the FF archives:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=61982.0
The advantage of a using a swing blade mill is that you get the "old timey" radial saw kerf marks on the beam. Additionally you can mill a log with a much larger butt end than most band mills.
Having said that, a typical band mill will be less labor intensive and faster to operate. Plus you can net some wider side boards than you can with a swing blade mill.
For efficiency, I'd recommend that you use something along the lines of Jake's setup.
I would recommend a 2 post mill. That way it is very easy to add sections to get the length you need. You can buy the sections or build your own.
I have a homemade 2 post mill on a trailer that can cut 11 feet. I built a 4 foot extension a few years ago and a 22 foot extension last summer. The longest logs I have cut on it are 36 feet. In theory it could cut longer but it is nice to have a foot or more on each end so the log doesn't have to be positioned perfectly. Mine is set up on 3 separate trailers. I park them end to end then start blocking them up. Once the ground is good and frozen it works really well. But in the spring thaw I have to re-level it multiple times per log. Having a good concrete foundation would be nice(but takes away portability) and would help a lot with keeping things straight and level.
I was cutting 8x8's that long. Hardwoods were very hard to keep straight. In some cases I would get a bow of 4 or 5 inches over the length of the log on the first cut. The only way to recover from that was to cut the log into shorter pieces. White pine and popple behaved pretty well. Red pine was like a piece of spaghetti and took the most care when moving it around once millet to try and keep it clean.
I think there could be a lucrative market for long timbers go for quality and charge high rather than charging low prices and having to make it up in quantity. Since mills that can cut that long are rare people will pay your price or figure out how to get by with shorter beams. Logs that can make good beams that long are a bit rare as well so make sure to charge for that too.
Quote from: scsmith42 on January 20, 2022, 05:34:28 PM
I've milled long beams using a swing blade mill and a crane. One project of some 43 footers is documented here in the FF archives:
Milling some long ones in Sawmills and Milling (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=61982.0)
The advantage of a using a swing blade mill is that you get the "old timey" radial saw kerf marks on the beam. Additionally you can mill a log with a much larger butt end than most band mills.
Having said that, a typical band mill will be less labor intensive and faster to operate. Plus you can net some wider side boards than you can with a swing blade mill.
For efficiency, I'd recommend that you use something along the lines of Jake's setup.
You've also cut some 56' oak. I wonder who has cut the longest on the Forum? I'm at 52' pine and 40' white oak. I think it's between you, Andries, and customsawyer. Certainly the 50' club is going to be fairly limited.
I think the cantilever head offers some advantages when dealing with the big logs. As long as you can wiggle something up under the head, you can give it a trim.
There were plenty of days when I thought; this nuts!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/WRC_4108_lbs_.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612370482)
My setup could go to 52' long, but the real trick was to get the job done with a 28" throat. If recalled correctly, there were only about a dozen logs that I needed to cut to fit that length.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Log_Ten_7.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1609544255)
Without very straight logs, it would never work.
I would've killed for a wide mill back in the day.
I did some hardwood at 45' one time. I've only had the extra 12' extension added on once I got the mill to the house. I want a contest that I can win. :D
A CSM is gonna win that one :D. We're at 60' on about 2 grand of equipment and are only limited to what can come out of the woods. But it sure isn't fast.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/60onroad.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1497390591)
You guys are animals
Quote from: Don P on January 21, 2022, 06:56:01 AM
A CSM is gonna win that one :D. We're at 60' on about 2 grand of equipment and are only limited to what can come out of the woods. But it sure isn't fast.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/60onroad.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1497390591)
That sounds like a long walk with a chainsaw but it beats a broad axe. I suppose there is no side lumber involved.
Quote from: mike_belben on January 21, 2022, 07:14:49 AM
You guys are animals
Well if THIS isn't the perfect example of the pot calling the kettle Black, I don't know what is. :D :D :D
:D :D
For sidewood, if it is a recoverable sized slab we cut them down, usually in the 12' range, brought that out easier and sawed on the swingblade, recovery was poor but something. I think I got the heavy stringers and treads out of the sidewood off that tree, it was ~3' at the base to get a 12x12x60'
Well guys, that sounds like the winner at 60 feet. Chicken dinner for Don!
While there's a lot of experience in our replies to Herbettehunter, the op. . . Haven't heard from him in a while.
What d'you think, did all us animals scare him off? 😉
Quote from: Andries on January 21, 2022, 01:02:30 PM
Well guys, that sounds like the winner at 60 feet. Chicken dinner for Don!
Hmm.... This sounds like a challenge....
Ruh-roh :D, I know of some monsters, but they are up there for a reason.
I guess one way of looking at it is a CSM can do the 1 or 2%, I wouldn't build for that, figure out where the majority of big timber cutoff is, I'd bet 40'
I hooked the extra 12' extension on just because I had it. Figure I'll use it about 10 times. It does give me bragging rights around these parts.
Okay to a contest I can win. Who has cut the most timbers 35' plus?
I've been known to be a little competitive and combative when I'm loosing. :D
Grandpa always said "Don't fight fair. Fight to win."
Is this a Stick measuring contest?
Quote from: customsawyer on January 21, 2022, 03:54:19 PM
Okay to a contest I can win. Who has cut the most timbers 35' plus?
That's a challenge that I'll take a pass on....
Quote from: customsawyer on January 21, 2022, 06:10:52 AMI did some hardwood at 45' one time. I've only had the extra 12' extension added on once I got the mill to the house. I want a contest that I can win.
Just host the contest at your place.
There is a practical limit... did I just say that :D. We did 3 sides in the woods to get the weight manageable but left it around 16" deep just to move them the mile or so to the site, I figured we stood a good chance of breaking a 12x12 if it hit a pothole hard, and then there's trying to not poke somebody's eye out with the thing.
Don't know how many 35'+ I've done, never kept track, but could estimate.
Over 50'-6.
Over 40'- about 30.
Over 30'- dozens.
Then there is the one that got away. I didn't end up needing this log full length, but it would have made a 12"x12" 68'-6" without wane.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/20140408_152150_28129.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1396989025)
Like all contest this one is rigged. I was cutting timbers for a excavator to walk on. So you could say that the tolerances was not as tight as one for a timber frame house. I used to do 100+ per week for months on end when those big orders came in. Just keep in mind that if one was off by ½" it didn't matter to the equipment walking on it. Also I was allowed lots of wane. All I needed was a 2" flat ish spot on each face. There were lots of logs that I would square up to 24"x24" and bust 4 timbers out of. The absolutely worst way to cut a timber for a home but for some equipment to walk on it didn't matter. I've seen those timbers bow so bad they would stack 100K pounds of lumber on them to hold them down while they drilled the holes and drove bolts in to hold it in place. I've also cut some really nice red and white oak into these timbers. The things you have to do when you don't own the logs.
I have been reading continuously the responses to my initial questions regarding milling long beams.
Andries: yes you guys are animals; no you guys did not scare me off, if anything you've motivated me further to pursue this niche area which I do think will be a challenge but a good one.
One of the questions that didn't quite get answered yet is the following. Regardless of which manufacturer I choose, assuming it's a band sawmill like Wood-mizer or Baker which were my original two choices for this particular endeavor, is it advisable to have hydraulics completely down the track. I read how turning the log on the bed really puts wear and tear on the side supports (Andries), but it seems some hydraulics down the length of the bed might help this to be more of a production approach. If so, what do you suggest - additional bi-directional chain turners, additional side supports, log clamps, an additional roller toeboard (to correct better for taper over such long lengths give the fact that the log will bend over this length when you correct for taper)????
The only time I have turned some off of the sawmill is when it was beyond the strength of my hydraulics. I was in production mode down at that other mill. I have the chain turner on the LT70 and the claw turner on the extension. Hydraulic side supports and toe board rollers are a game changer. They keep you from walking back and forth thus adding speed to the operation. One of the most frustrating logs for me to cut is 22'. It's not long enough to reach both side supports on the mill and still reach the side support and toe board roller on the extension. So you end up having to bring it as close to the head of the mill and work with it the best you can. They can be a challenge. At 24' to 25' I can just reach the mills and extension side supports plus the first toe board roller on the extension. Once you get to 28' I can bring both turners and clamps in to play and that is a game changer. I turned 99% of my logs on the mill. I didn't notice to much abuse on the side supports as it was based on the strength of the hydraulics. Keep in mind that in knowing what I was going to be doing with the mill I didn't have it bolted to concrete when I was doing the high production sawing. This allowed the mill and extension to move around a little instead of being rigid. If I would of had the mill bolted down in that application I think I would have had to had some long leads on my welder or one heck of a extension cord for it. These big logs are heavy and when that square face lands it can hit hard on occasion. When cutting for high quality timbers I will make a couple of cuts on the first two faces using the toe board rollers. Then when you turn the first face to the bed the log is supported on the bed rails thus removing any deflection that might have been caused by the toe board roller. Cut your next two faces to where you want them and then finish up your first two faces of the timber. This keeps everything plum, flush and square. Removing any deflection or sag that might have been in the first two faces.
As customsawyer pointed out, my setup also lacked the side supports at certain spots on the rail. That is caused by the trapezoid shape of the WM frame and extensions. It creates connection zones where it's a challenge to place side supports. Doable, I think, but tricky. You had mentioned Doug fir as your species of choice, which isprobably very well suited to the long timber market. Customsawyer's points re onboard hydraulics for turning and on-ground support for the frame are very well taken. I was using a peavy hook on a chain, lifting with a fel. One of my photos earlier showed that low cost way of turning. On ground turning would have been the better low-cost way to do this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Western_Red_Cedar_on_truck_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1642856805)
Big logs lead to this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Toe_Board_squash_1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1642856773)
I'm glad that you've been motivated by descriptions and joking around, and I'll be watching for your progress. We're curious animals, yknow?
There is relevant information here regarding hydraulics on the extensions: European Wood-Mizers. (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=117693.0)
I have linked the first side support on the extension to the mill and also can move the first hydraulic toe board to the extension with a set of 24' hoses.
Hydraulic backstop on bed extension. - YouTube (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GZhCkH0vW1s)
Quote from: Andries on January 22, 2022, 08:11:17 AM
As customsawyer pointed out, my setup also lacked the side supports at certain spots on the rail. That is caused by the trapezoid shape of the WM frame and extensions. It creates connection zones where it's a challenge to place side supports. Doable, I think, but tricky. You had mentioned Doug fir as your species of choice, which isprobably very well suited to the long timber market. Customsawyer's points re onboard hydraulics for turning and on-ground support for the frame are very well taken. I was using a peavy hook on a chain, lifting with a fel. One of my photos earlier showed that low cost way of turning. On ground turning would have been the better low-cost way to do this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Western_Red_Cedar_on_truck_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1642856805)
Big logs lead to this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Toe_Board_squash_1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1642856773)
I'm glad that you've been motivated by descriptions and joking around, and I'll be watching for your progress. We're curious animals, yknow?
What part is that that is bent? (Below-big logs lead to this)
Jim Rogers
I remember reading an article where Logosol sawed out the world record length 2x4. I don't remember, it was metric but I think it was around 80' long😊
Quote from: Jim_Rogers on January 22, 2022, 11:05:44 AMWhat part is that that is bent? (Below-big logs lead to this)
Jim Rogers
Jim: It's a manual toe board, the lower thread-rod support.
Here's a photo of the replacement toe board with the removed bent unit on the SS bunk, above.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Toe_Board_replacement_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1423800829)
Remember, my work was done on a 1992 LT30. The engineers of that mill may not have endorsed what I put that poor mill through, but it took the strain remarkably well.
Jim: as an active educator/trainer of timberframers, what is your thinking re long timber production? The use of scarf joints placed over post braces seems to be a standard practice, cancelling the need for super long Timbers. Do you place a premium on single long beams over jointed shorter ones? Perhaps Peter Drouin, @Peter Drouin (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=12511) a NE miller of beams could comment on the demand he has in his business for long Timbers?
Quote from: Andries on January 22, 2022, 12:12:27 PM
Quote from: Jim_Rogers on January 22, 2022, 11:05:44 AMWhat part is that that is bent? (Below-big logs lead to this)
Jim Rogers
Jim: as an active educator/trainer of timberframers, what is your thinking re long timber production? The use of scarf joints placed over post braces seems to be a standard practice, cancelling the need for super long Timbers. Do you place a premium on single long beams over jointed shorter ones?
A solid full-length timber is stronger than a scarfed one, for sure. And of course, a longer one is going to cost more.
When someone tells me that they want to harvest their own logs to make their own timbers for their frame, I ask them what is the longest timber that they can produce?
And/or what is the longest one that they can buy. Of course, they can usually buy up to 40' timbers that have been trucked in from far away. But what is the cost of that timber? Can they/you afford that?
Using a full-length timber is also a challenge to cut the joints in, just due to the size/weight. It is difficult to roll over and move on the sawhorses.
Is there a market for them? Could be. Hard to guess. I would assume so. But it will all depend on price and availability.
Jim Rogers
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on January 19, 2022, 10:03:54 PM
... when you think about it, a 40' 8x8 at just $1.50/BF is 320 bucks. A couple of those a day is good side money. ...
No where near enough. Here's my 2015 pricing per BF (all in $Cdn).
Basic price: $1.80
Overlength surcharge: $1.20
Handling surcharge: $0.50
Total = $3.50/BF x 213.33 BF = $746.60
Adjust to 2021 dollars = $746.60 x 1.132 = $845.40 CDN
Adjust to $US = $845.40/1.3 =
$650.00 USNOTES:
I charged an extra $0.06 per BF for every foot of length over 20'. That covered extra sawing time and loss of value lost to side lumber. Keep in mind that when you saw timbers from a long log you're producing a lot more low-value side lumber from the butt end. If you could turn it into timbers instead you'd be producing 40% more high-value wood.
I also charged a flat $0.50 for handling logs that were over 26', because that would involve extra equipment to load each log and even more lost time.
For long timbers, you're not competing with Lowes or TimberMart. Where else are they going to get something that big? I never once had a customer tell me it was too much.
A couple of times a customer would say they just couldn't afford it so I'd ask why they needed something that long. I explained why long timbers cost so much and pointed out that two timbers half that length would be half the price (for both). More often than not they liked the "idea" of one long continuous timber. How much were they willing to pay for aesthetics?
Don't forget to check the vertical limit of the throat on the saw! An lt15 wide would be nice but you can't cut but one 12x12 out of a big log. I think you only have 8 or 9 inches from the blade to the frame!
Thanks to all again. I still may have a question or two on milling long logs that I'll post as I finish up my analysis. My plan is to place an order for equipment in 2022 so that I can be ready in 2023 to start experimenting with long logs. In the meantime, this year, I have a lot of milling to do hence my wood-mizer lt70 which I should get shortly.
Quote from: Andries on January 20, 2022, 11:09:44 PM
There were plenty of days when I thought; this nuts!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/WRC_4108_lbs_.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612370482)
My setup could go to 52' long, but the real trick was to get the job done with a 28" throat. If recalled correctly, there were only about a dozen logs that I needed to cut to fit that length.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Log_Ten_7.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1609544255)
Without very straight logs, it would never work.
I would've killed for a wide mill back in the day.
Look at the 545 go! My neighbor is selling her house and was supposed to sell me her old 455, but her own realtor talked her into selling it to her instead... for less $$ >:(
She's a nice older lady and I guess she didn't want to pith off her realtor. Felt a little shady, but what are you gonna do...
Sorry to hear of the miss on the 455, there will be others though.
The usual on-line heavy metal sites show a fair number of the series on a regular basis.
Even You Tube shows a number of them.
I'm happy with my can-do Swiss Army knife.
Here is a video of my mill with hyd. on the extension.
56 ft. LT70 How I added hyd. to my extension. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/ldUZBLsSVmQ)
A W E S O M E ! ! !
hugs, Brandi
Customsawyer I just watched your video on the extended mill. Wonderful. But I am curious. Why are the hydraulics for the extension portion independently separated from the mill hydraulics? Wouldn't you want coordination of the side supports and log turners across the entire length of the mill? In other words why weren't these tied into the mill control levers?
If it was that way it would just add wear when sawing shorter stuff that don't need the extension. I'm sure they could be hooked up that way if that is what you wanted. It would just take some fittings.
Siting here, having coffee, a Sunny day 2°.
Very nice mill customsawyer. I find a long mill is handy, sometimes a pith to walk around. :D ;)
They do present their own challenges but are worth it in the end.
Super video, well done.
The mill frame looks funny without the tires, but bolting it to the concrete solves that.
It should be good for another 10,000 hours, right?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/07D063FA-EC25-4D2F-B568-AB340A4C56F3.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1643565758)
In action.
I hope I never have to walk around another tire ever again.
I bet he can walk around that one in his sleep.
I've walked around that one so many times I find myself looking for it now that it's removed. Kind of like when they quit making pickups with a manual transmission. My first automatic I bet I reached for the shifter for a year or longer before I quit.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22511/SAM_2266.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1554167055)
No tire ;)
Peter, that looks like a one lane bowling alley. Nice!
Question: what's the length of the longest timbers in most of your timber-framing orders?
Very nice Peter. How did you set up your hydraulics down the bed? Did you do it like Customsawyer?
Most times there will be 4 to 8 bents to stand up . The long ones from 26 to 40'
All the rest of the beams would be shorter. 36' seems to be the most ask for.
Herbettehunter, No hyd yet most times I use a 4x4 in the frame, so the logs don't role off the bed. Sometimes the log want's to climb the backstops.
Thanks Peter