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Looking for sawmill blade. Is this any good?

Started by ajk2004, June 13, 2020, 01:13:16 PM

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ajk2004

Hey guys,  this is my first post on the forum.  I'm looking at getting into some sawmilling and am going to build a mill and model it after the foley belsaw.  It is a light duty setup but it will do what I need it for.  I'm on the hunt for a blade.  I have a few different leads but I came across one recently and the shank has "BX8P" inscribed on the shank.  I'm having a hard time looking up information for this.  I called the people in Rice, MN and they told me that I really need to do some homework before buying a blade as some blades are impossible to find replacement parts for.  Has anybody got any knowledge of what this is and if new parts can still be had?  Thanks for the help!!
Andy

dgdrls

ajk2004, welcome to the FF

Sounds like a neat project,
I believe the shanks you're describing are, B pattern, 8 gauge, I'm unsure of what the P stands for
 8 gauge is probably more than you want in a "light duty" mill,
What diameter is that saw?
Others more experienced than I will weigh-in,

D





whiskers

many irons in the fire.........

Trapper John

Welcome to the forum.   B-8 shanks and bits still commonly used.  The Belsaws came equipped with B-9 shanks and bits.  Good luck.

Ron Wenrich

P stands for being a bit oversized and is needed to keep the teeth securely in the socket.  This comes from the socket expanding due to use.  The B is the pattern, the 8 is the gauge.  Your saw is probably an B pattern 8/9 gauge.  Teeth and shanks are still available.  

Things you need to know about a used saw.  Any damaged sockets?  I've had some saws repaired, and some damaged saws run okay, some don't.  Any blue spots?  It means the saw got pretty hot at one time.  Is it cracked?  If the saw is cracked, it will never run right.  These saws make great knives and signs.  They won't make great lumber.  The last thing is what the speed the saw is hammered.  

You'll probably have to have it hammered before you use it.  Factor that into your cost.  Also, look at the shanks and figure if you'll need new ones.  Do that before you have it hammered.  Another cost factor.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

ajk2004

Thanks for the help guys.  I believe it is a 52" blade.  I'm not super fond of having one that big. The guy said it's in amazing shape and wants $350 for it.  I think that's fair but not sure.  Having it hammered will cost probably $200 from the guys in Rice or that's what they said.   There was a guy selling a 40" blade, but that seems too small.  I'm still deciding.  I understand I'm going to need it hammered.  That's nice that they still sell parts for this.  I'm going to call Rice MN in the morning to verify some stuff with this.  The saw looks pretty decent. What I would expect a used saw blade to look like.  When you say sockets, are you referring to the cavity that hold the shank and tooth? Thanks guys!!
Andy

dgdrls

Yes, the sockets hold the bits & shanks. 
Make certain all the sockets are tight, any information and sawsmith documentation that can be provided
would be helpful.
When you're looking, perhaps you can condition a purchase on the findings
of a saw doctor prior to purchase,  may be worth an ask.

D



 

Trapper John

Ron,  I have a question that has bugged me for a while.  When a saw is labeled a 8/9 guage, does that mean that saw will take either 8 or 9 guage teeth or does it mean the saw is 8 guage at the center and 9 guage at the rim?

Ron Wenrich

Yes, thicker on the eye of the saw.  On most saws, the information when it was mfg is stamped on the side of the saw.  A really old saw may not have one, or its worn off, but a brand new saw has a serial number, tooth style, gauge, and if its right or left hand by the side its stamped on.  
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

dgdrls

Another question Ron/gentlemen  if you would,

My paperweight "F" pattern blade has the following stamp,
I'm fairly certain its a Simonds by the SSW
50" diameter
7/8 gauge
44 tooth

24415 is a production/SN stamp

Is the 700 the "factory" hammered speed?
Does the 8 indicate/confirm the shank size?

Thanks
D



 

moodnacreek


Ron Wenrich

I think Moodnacreek is right.  It sounds like that's the number of teeth a B pattern should have.  I run a B pattern over the F pattern saw when I was sawing.  Most guys in my area use F.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

moodnacreek

One of my saws is a 52" B with only 36 teeth. This saw is only run in severe cutting conditions like dead locust or frozen hard maple. Most times I run an F, 50 tooth. But my  favorite is a 2 1/2 52 tooth .  The more teeth the straighter and faster.

dgdrls

Thank-you gentlemen,

It's an F pattern for certain,
I'm thinking the 8 confirms the rim.

Other side of the bit and shank from post # 6 which came from the
saw with data stamp I posted



 


dgdrls

Quote from: moodnacreek on June 16, 2020, 01:11:05 PM
One of my saws is a 52" B with only 36 teeth. This saw is only run in severe cutting conditions like dead locust or frozen hard maple. Most times I run an F, 50 tooth. But my  favorite is a 2 1/2 52 tooth .  The more teeth the straighter and faster.
What diameter are the F and 2 1/2 saws?
D

moodnacreek

The saws I am using are all 52". The new saw is a B 44 tooth in 6/8. This is the only one I bought new. It doesn't run any better or even as good as the others. There is a 4 1/2 I picked up for a sign but hate to put it outside. Also have a 40" B and a 30" F that is like new for the top saw I never built. And many boxes of teeth, to many, from E bay. I like saws.

Ron Wenrich

I always ran a 54" B pattern with 46 teeth.  I went to the B pattern, as there is more gullet area than in the F pattern.  I ran winter shanks and summer teeth all year long.  We would run some pretty big logs at times and a fairly large in most runs.  We had places to go with the smaller logs, and wouldn't run them in the mill due to saw costs and product yield.  I felt I had a better feed rate with the B pattern saw.  Every mill situation is different.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

moodnacreek

A few years ago I found a box of 'frost' shanks [hoe] in 2 1/2 8. I put them in and they fit tight. This is in a saw that needed 2nd size shanks and these where std. size. Did I get lucky. I had 2 1/2 super shanks but they fit to loose. So I started buying chrome regular bits off e bay cheap. I was told that these shanks would not work because of the small gullet size but I only have a 4" feed and this combination work the best for me most of the time and it is cheap sawing. I love this saw so much I am afraid to use it in fear of a wreck. I have had it for a long time and only had it hammered twice and the second time it hardly needed it. All saws are different in my mind and when you have struggled with them you learn to reconise a good one.

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