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Which glue?

Started by Brad_bb, December 20, 2011, 03:57:47 AM

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Brad_bb

I split a piece of pine 2X material that I need to glue back together.  It won't be exposed to the elements.  Should I use yellow woodworkers glue or urethane (gorilla) glue?  And why?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
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Ianab

As long as you can get a good spread of glue and clamp it up properly while it cures, it wont matter. Modern wood glues are stronger than wood anyway. If it fails again, it wont be at the glue line.

Save the Gorilla glue for when you need it waterproof, it's a messy overkill for normal work.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

SwampDonkey

Lepages or Titebond will do it. As Ian said it's stronger than the wood bonds. I find Lepages to be the strongest carpenter glue, but I use Titebond because I can buy it cheaper by the gallon jug. Both glues made in Ohio.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

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Busy Beaver Lumber

I would use the titebond glue. I use a lot of it, about 10 gallons a year, and have never had a glue joint failure with it. Just make sure you wipe of any excess real well with water or it will not allow your stain to penetrate that area

I would be hesitant to use the gorilla glue as it has a tendency to expand and push parts apart when it cures. It would however be good for repair a very loose chair leg assembly, or any other assembly that has a lot of play in the joint due to its expansion property, but just make sure you clamp it well or it will tend to push the joint apart as it expands.
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Bill Gaiche

I like the titebond 3. Like any good glue make sure that you have a good coat on all the surface. It has been good for me. bg

Brad_bb

ok, Thanks for the input guys.  Titebond it is.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Den Socling

I like Titebond, too. But if you do butcher block that you plan on planing with knives, kiss the knives goodbye.

Norm


beenthere

Are we talking Titebond III here?

There are many different Titebond glues.
south central Wisconsin
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Brad_bb

If you're asking me, I'm not sure.  I know I have titebond in the shop, red label I think.  Maybe it's titebond II?

What should one use if doing a butcher block style glue up and planing?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

DouginUtah

Some magazine (years ago) did a test of glues and found Titebond II was stronger than III. III is for use in wet conditions. At least that's how I remember it.
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

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SwampDonkey

I use Titebond 2, it's waterproof (interior/exterior) and can be used on butcher block.

Lepages is interior and has 2 tonnes of bonding strength.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

DouginUtah

Quote from: SwampDonkey on December 21, 2011, 10:03:15 PM
I use Titebond 2, it's waterproof (interior/exterior) and can be used on butcher block.

I've got to correct you, Bill. II is water-resistant, III is water-proof. III has a longer open time and is good to use on oily woods.
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

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5quarter

Brad...use titebond III. It has a longer tack time. It is in fact stronger than II. I have tested both extenively. Both will work fine for your application, but TB III will work better.
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jamesamd

I use Devcon 2 ton epoxy for cutting boards,no proplem with planning.

I also use Titebond II&III depending on moisture levels to deal with.
Jim
All that is gold does not glitter,not all those that wander are lost.....

DouginUtah


I found a reference to the testing done by Wood magazine--somewhat dated, and, as I remembered, Titebond II was found to be stronger than Titebond III. Gorilla was found to be much better than both in the submersion test.

http://www.diyprojects.info/bb/ftopic70-0-asc-0.html

-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

---

SwampDonkey

Doug, your right. The word over the little ducky on the label is "weatherproof". My brain registered it as waterproof. Seems like it must be waterproof though (rain is water), but maybe that refers to submersion. ;D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Den Socling

Norm, One time I made a counter with strips of tropical hardwoods and Titebond II. I ran it through my planer with new knives. The knives ended up nicked. I always blamed the glue joints. I would be glad to be corrected if the glue didn't do the nicks. The counter is still laying in the shop. Den

metalspinner

Hardened glue will nick your knives. 

After the glue firms up a bit, I always scrape off the squeeze out.  That lets the glue up sit flat on the planer bed, too.  It also reduces he chance of nicking the knife. 

If the glue up is going straight to the sander, I scrape off all traces of excess glue on the surface. I have ruined too many drum sanding strips by being impatient with scraping glue.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

Norm

Thanks Den, I'm about to make up an end grain cutting board. I used Titebond II for it but I have a spiral cutterhead in my planer. I was going to just run it through my drum sander but now Chris has be wondering which way to go.

Busy Beaver Lumber

Norm

When I glue up boards, if there is a lot of glue protrusion, I take a few seconds and hit the glue with a belt sander rather than scrape it prior to running it through the surface planer. Have found this to be much easier than scraping it off. Comes off real quick, but make sure you have safety glasses and long sleeved shirt on because it will toss the glue pieces at you with a fair amount of force. As previously mentioned, getting rid of the excess glue allows the glued up board to sit flatter on the planner infeed and outfeed tables.
Woodmizer LT-10 10hp
Epilog Mini 18 Laser Engraver with rotary axis
Digital Wood Carver CNC Machine
6 x 10 dump trailer
Grizzly 15in Spiral Cut Surface Planer
Grizzly 6in Spiral Cut Joiner
Twister Firewood Bundler
Jet 10-20 Drum Sander
Jet Bandsaw



Save a tree...eat a beaver!

Norm


metalspinner

Norm,
If you don't scrape that glue first, I would anticipate sanding about 2" into the length of your board before the drum sander started thumping around and a funny smelling smoke enveloped the shop.  This is followed immediately by a dark black burned streak on your project board as it exits the sander with a corrosponding burned ring on your sanding belt. ::)

Bloodwood will do the same thing without any glue. ::)  I found that out this morning. >:(
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

Dodgy Loner

I always wipe off any excess glue when it's still wet. The beads are rough on tools, but the glue joints themselves don't pose any problem. FWIW, I use Tightbond II or III on almost everything. I have no use for Gorilla Glue at all. It's messy and weaker than regular wood glue. Nothing I build should ever be submerged in water. I occasionally have uses for superglue (when I need an instant bond) and epoxy (for gap-filling).
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Axe Handle Hound

I've always used Titebond III for my cutting boards.  The extra glue up time really helps reduce frustration.  I find epoxy to have too much creep and as others have stated, gorilla glue is just too messy.  The epoxy and gorilla glue will both get the job done, but I just don't like working with them.

Not to get off topic, I would not advise running end grain butcher blocks through a planer.  I tried that once and only once.  A solid board went in and a bunch of chunks came out.  I then bought new blades for the planer (disposables) and got out the hand plane and sandpaper.   Edge grain blocks do just fine in the planer, but end grain not so much.  Maybe others have had a more positive experience.   

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