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Milling with chainsaw

Started by plantman, March 11, 2017, 10:55:58 AM

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plantman

Just bought a Stihl 880 with 5' bar (monster !) now I have to figure out how I'm going to use it to mill some large logs about 4' in diameter. I've seen the Granberg and the Panther Pros Alaskan chainsaw mills. They appear to be more accurate than the mini mills but what bothers me is that there is nothing supporting the saw powerhead when using those mills. So I'm trying to figure out if I can build my own chainsaw mill where the powerhead is either hung from a beam suspended above the log or resting on a beam alongside the cut.
I was wondering if anyone else has built such a mill.

Ox

I think that if it was a problem you'd have heard about it by now.  I think you're worrying about a problem that doesn't exist.  I don't mean this snarky, just trying to set your mind at ease.  That saw won't care if it's hanging off the end of the bar.  How many thousands of these mills have been run?  I've never heard of anything bad happening regarding the powerhead hanging off the end of the bar.  I've run them too!  No problems.  So relax, my friend.  There's no problems here.  :)
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Savannahdan

Ox is right.  I use a Granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill with a 56" bar and Husqvarna 3120xp and a Makita DCS 7901 on occasion . with no problems. I like the Granberg because there are plenty of options for it.  As long as my first cut is accurate the rest will be spot on.
Husqvarna 3120XP, Makita DCS7901 Chainsaw, 30" & 56" Granberg Chain Saw Mill, Logosol M8 Farmers Mill

PineHill4488

I concur with the previous replies, my 660 hasn't given me a lick of trouble with a 36" Granberg clamped on or not. My Spring Break is week after next. I'll report how well the Malloff-instructed modification to the side cover works.
Fall 2013 purchased Stihl MS 660 and an Alaskan 36" mill, am happy with the setup, hobbyist not a volume producer, have milled oak, hickory, yellow pine, and power poles.

plantman

Well that's interesting to hear from all of you . That powerhead on the 880 sure seems heavy to me. Curious, does everyone use an aluminum ladder for a guide ?

Idiocrates

I use an 880 as well but my bar is only 48".  I removed my dogs from the saw so my engine-end clamp is just about 1/2" from the front of the saw and I haven't experienced any issues this far.   Also, I use a 2x12 as my guide.....one side has my mini-mill rails on it and when I use it with the alaskan I just turn it over and use it with the smooth side up.
James

plantman

Do you like using the mini-mill ? Is it accurate enough ? Does the saw tend to want to roll off the 2x12 supporting it ?

JohnW

I also use a 2x12 as a guide with my Alaskan mill, but with a 395 and usually a 28" bar.  And I use a mini mill on a 2x6 to take off the side wood.  The mini mill seems accurate enough to me.  I'm glad when I finished with the mini mill and switching back to the Alaskan.  A saw mounted in the mini mill throws a lot of saw dust at you.

Brucer

I tried the mini-mill -- it was my first "sawmill". It was OK for 8x8 and smaller. When I got up to 12" cuts it was sometimes off a little.

When I moved up to the Alaskan mill, I made myself a counterbalance for the head. Just cut 8" or so of a 12" diameter log. Cut a notch across one face to straddle the handle on the mill. Then it was just a matter of setting the 8" "cookie" on top of the mill, on the side away from the sawhead.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

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