Enclosed Trailers: Tips and tricks? Outfitting?

[Old Greenhorn]

So last week I bought a 6x12' enclosed trailer for doing shows and I know there are a lot of folks here who either have or had one. I also know there are a lot of folks here who are sharper, smarter, neater, and more creative than me. I am busy with another aspect of my business, but show season kind of starts next month and I need to get the trailer outfitted for use and ready to go. I haven't had time to get into it yet, except to register it.
 At first I was concerned about shelves, tie-downs, and packing layouts. But then I started looking at it and played that game many of us know "well, before I do that I really have to to this, and before I do this, I should really have to do that." So where I thought I would start is actually where I will end up now. Shelves and that stuff will be last.
 This trailer has aftermarket boat trailer fenders on it, installed incorrectly. Just looking at them is driving me crazy. It ain't right. Well to change the fenders out I need to pull the inside wall paneling. OK, here we go. As long as that paneling is out I might as well put some rigid foam insulation in there before I put the panels back, and oh yeah, I have to change some wiring, need to do that too while the panels are out. I ordered a 3 bay surface mount switch for the new LED lights. As long as the panels are off I should replace the loosened sheet metal panel screws with nuts and bolts. It's going to go on and on, I know. I also know there is a limit I have to put on it. I will have to go over the bearings and order some spares and look for a dedicated properly fitting jack and important stuff like that. I will be re-doig the dafety chains, they are a mess. Might change the front jack too. 
 So today I took some time while I let my back repair and pulled the inside panel on one side to see how this is built. It seemed like a hundred gazillion screws.  That allowed me to see where and how the original fenders looked. So I ordered those and a few other things. Today was just 'discovery' as the lawyers say. I also learned I don't care for the trailer rocking around as I work in side and was thinking about adding some very simple drop leg stabilizers.  Then I might add a small battery with a small solar panel to keep the battery up so the lights work whenever I need them This all got me thinking, and finally my question:

 What have you folks who have or had these rigs done to make them work for you? What worked, what drove you crazy, what do you find an oddball solution for that worked out great? What did you always wish you had done, but never got to it? Anything you could share with a newbie would be appreciated a great deal.

[sprucebunny]

First thing, I waterproofed the floor. Then I put waterproof carpet on it. Then I put plastic panels over the panelling. 
Haven't used it much.

I bought it to haul my tracked ATV but it's ended up another storage area.

[Andries]

Tom, you can call me a too practical Dutch guy, but here's how I would go about it.
I - get your new set of wheels roadworthy. Are the bearings in good shape, bearing buddies needed? fix up those safety chains, do all lights work, is the roof waterproof, is there any dry rot in the wheels or do they look like they need to be replaced? You're already doing the fenders – good man.
II - have an 'oh shyte' spot near either the rear door or side door. I like to keep my spare tire out of the sun and away from knuckleheads. Get a hydraulic jack that's rated for a fully loaded trailer and have some blocking so that you can get it under one of the axles. A long harbour freight breaker bar with a deep socket for the Lugnuts. It's going to be appreciated on a rainy, dark night. Fire extinguisher? Road flares? . . . and all in one sacred spot. "Don't touch" signs all over it.
III - get some big and some small load straps, some movers blankets, and some bubble pack. Maybe one or two of those freight truck pogo sticks that stabilize loads. I see you on the road going from one craft fair to another and I'm pretty sure that in short order you'll have figured out all of the gizmos and gadgets that it'll take for you to get your stuff in and out. Like a good quality two wheel loader.
IIII - have some fun and pimp out your wheels with LED lights, solar panels, Forestry Forum stickers, Woody woodpecker smoking' a cigar stickers and flames coming out of the new fenders.
Happy trails buddy!

[Larry]

My trailer came with stabilizer jacks, can't imagine being without them but my trailer was 10' and maybe a different balance point. The jacks were not the nice screw type but some kind of sliding lock. I'm sure they were probably the cheapest ones but they worked fine and did the job.

For craft shows most of the stuff was packed in nice big tubs. All the same brand and they sorta locked together when stacked. I thought about tie downs but never got any. To keep the load from shifting we tried to make sure we had a full layer of tubs, wall to wall. If not I had some of those cargo jacks to keep everything in place. Harbor Freight sells them now, but have never really looked close at them. They probably would slide under hard braking or a sudden maneuver. At one time I put some shelves in it with deep bins which was fine for some items.

The most important thing I did to it was add decals of a Razorback Hog herd to the back door. Go Razorbacks!

 

 

[Old Greenhorn]

Thanks fellas, even stuff I have already thought of is helpful to hear from others so I know I am thinking straight. Yes, thought of the 'roadside disaster kit' and right by the door too. In fact, as I jsut walked back in the house from freezing my butt cheeks together helping my son swap out the Fuel tank selector switch on the side of the road in a blowing snow with 30 MPH winds, yeah, that experience, which I have had personally too many times is always present in my mind. I do everything I can to make it as easy as possible, so I am planning on extra bearings sets in that kit as well as the tools for the job. If it's all laid out, it's pretty easy, if you don't have what you need, it's a long sordid story. So yes, all the running and safety gear is first on my mind, that's a no brainer. Mostly I hope for short drives but I have a market in VT that I would like to try and that's 2+ hours at highway and interstate speeds. I am also considering doing the LogRite  open house which puts me on CT interstates with some tire eating potholes, another 2.5 hours each way. I just don't know if I can be ready in time for that. I want my best foot forward for that one. I still have a lot of product work to get done too.
This trailer has a nice rubber floor, I ain't gonna touch it. The roof and walls are sound, but a lot of joints need tightening up so that they stay tight. So really I just have to pull all the inside panels and do it right, once.
All good ideas. Keep 'em coming.

I don't know if there are any FF stickers left, but I would love to have 3 for it, but at least one on the right side. Yeah, I'll think about the others as I go along. Right now I am focused on safe and (very) functional.

[21incher]

When we used our  little trailer for moving from Poughkeepsie to up here the big thing we needed  for furniture was cushioning between the items. There are always corners  sticking  out that will rub on something when strapped together. We found some of the old mattress toppers made from foam that I cut up to pad between items and also walls. Also some white styrofoam packing sheets with higher density they usually toss out at places like home depot when unpacking the tool chests. If you have torsion axles things don't bounce much but with springs you probably will need to strap to the floor anything behind the axle. Be careful  of stickers because the minute our boy put one on his 6 x 12 he used for landscaping  the DOT took notice and he had to get DOT stickers on his F150 pulling it. Before stickers he  never  was pulled over. 

[Old Greenhorn]

His stickers had his business name on them, correct? Yeah, I'm not doing that. Just some general stuff like anybody might put on their car windows. No business name or advertising.

[21incher]

His stickers had his business name on them, correct? Yeah, I'm not doing that. Just some general stuff like anybody might put on their car windows. No business name or advertising.

Yes, a small name and phone number sticker on both sides of the trailer. Actually in the end after getting  DOT numbers,  he wound up getting a 4 door jeep wrangler with passenger plates to pull it because insurance companies don't like personal commercial plated trucks with DOT numbers on them. He just did it on the side for a couple years.

[Ron Scott]

Easily reachable fire extinguisher inside access door. 

[Resonator]

Been a few years since I used a small cargo trailer for jobs, one thing that stood out I think I'd improve on is the inside paneling. They use the thinnest plywood they can get by with, I would upgrade to a heavier sheet at least a 4' up on the sidewall. This would not only be less likely to break if it gets hit with anything you're hauling, but would also be a solid surface to put screws into.

Over the years of driving semi trucks I pulled just about every type of trailer there is at one time or another, one summer I worked for a household goods mover. Their trailers had something like an E track down the sides that they would put crossbars in and lay plywood over to create a shelf level. This was called the "OS" rack (overhead storage), any lightweight freight would get loaded there, while keeping the trailer floor open to heavier freight. You could probably rig something similar with 2x4's or angle iron.

For padding old quilts and blankets work, I've seen old couch cushions used too. And keep the carboard and bubble wrap handy too.

As far as load securement I would probably add tie down points and use ratchet straps in your application. Also you might want to get a load bar (extendable pipe with padded ends) to fit your trailer. You might be able to find an old one from a semi and cut it down shorter to fit. If you've got any specific load securement questions let me know, I've hauled everything from very high dollar electronics loads to live honey bees in boxes.

[reride82]

I recommend the E-track tie downs on the walls and D-rings in the floor. I have an 8x20 enclosed trailer that is used to move family and friends, tool trailer for remodels, and is presently used as a mobile storage. I have a mobile work bench that straps/clamps to the E-track that has my sliding miter saw mounted to it. I have wheels on the work bench so once it is unstrapped from the trailer I can wheel it out to make room for the next task. I also have a pair of shelving units that holds totes that are also on wheels so I can wheel them out when not in use. Each shelf has a lip to keep the totes in place during transport. It has 12v interior lights that work when it is hooked up to the truck and I also wired it for 120v AC and have a 100' heavy duty extension cord on a spool for power for tools.

[Old Greenhorn]

Yup, no company info on my trailer, just some 'artwork'.
 I always have an extinguisher on the truck, but yeah, one just inside the door is a great idea. I'll take one of the three I have on the Mule and move it over to the trailer.

 This rig already has 1/2 plywood on the walls, so it's pretty solid and the d-rings are screwed through that and into the steel wall ribs. I have removed one side wall completely now getting ready to do the fenders. The 'trim strip covering panel joints are trash and were just stapled on with 1/4" staples. I plan on making something I little nicer out of hardwood maybe. After I do the fenders and a couple of other things under the panels, I will stick in some 1" rigid foam board then put the panels back on and repaint probably. Then start hanging d-rings, hooks, makes shelves, etc.

 I have decided against the E-track. It does really suit my needs at this point. That might change and I might put it on the floor. Keep in mind this will not be packed like a moving van and chock full, but the stuff can't get nicks, dings, or rub marks. That is the kiss of death for me. I have a lot of straps and such and will buy more, but the actual packing plan will have to wait until all the other work is done and I can start messing with it. I also have lots of moving blankets, and can get more. Figuring out the plan will take a day or to with my stuff in there. It might be best to put my benches in the with one standing on it's feet and the next one upside down on the first with to moving blankets between them, then one strap over the middle to two d-rings on the floor. I'll start with that idea anyway. Tables will have to go upside down on a moving blanket, that will use a bunch of floor space so I have to thin. k on that some more. Perhaps having the tops strapped against the wall might work. Time and testing will tell.
 Keep the ideas coming, I roll them all around in my head to see how they fir and I have quite a ways to go yet. I don't have much time to work on it now, I just grab a few minutes here and there. As soon as I get through harvesting season I will really get into it.

[Old Greenhorn]

I have a question for all you trailer users. Please don't laugh at me. I have ordered new bearings for mine, just to start clean, not knowing how many miles are on the current ones, and plan to install them before I really put any miles on it.
 This is a stupid question, but when y'all change out bearings 'just because' do you press out the old races and press in new ones? or do you use the old races if there is nothing wrong with them? I think I already know what y'sll will say and I am not even sure why I am thinking of using the old races, just thought I would ask. I read Sawyer Ted's tale of woe about his trailer, and it made me think a pre-emptive bearing change is a good idea.

[21incher]

I always change  both. There's a reason they come as a set. I got a set of the drivers at harbor freight pretty cheap that helps with the races and seals. You might get away with just using the old ones, but not worth taking a chance. Get the race cold and hub hot can make it slip together easier. 

[SawyerTed]

I do new races if I'm working at my shop where I have the tools for a complete job.  On the side of the road, if I can get the trailer home on the old races, I do.  The same forces wearing on the bearings are wearing on the races too.  

Sometimes i will replace the hub with pre installed bearings and races.  That was my repair in my "woeful saga" with the camper.  New bearings with seals and races were in the $30 range.  A new hub, with bearings and seal, $126.   Not an inexpensive way to go with a drum brake hub but sometimes the difference between new bearings and a pre packed idler hub isn't so much.  

I've been pulling trailers for 40 years and never had a complete bearing failure like the one on Sunday.  I have  bearing sets for the other 3 spindles.  I'll have too change them out before June. 

[peakbagger]

Consider putting some solar panels on the roof, a charge controller with low voltage cut off, a battery and a small inverter for some 120 V. For even less you can get USB chargers that hook directly to a solar panel for cell phones. Kind of nice to have some power on occasion if you are at a fair.   

[Old Greenhorn]

21, I have never felt the need for the bearing tools, don't even know if I could figure out how they worked. Either a good ball peen or lump hammer and a brass punch has been enough to git 'er done, sometimes the arbor press in the shop, I have even used a drill press spindle as an arbor press. These are small simple bearings and I have never had the need for heat. Maybe I'll take a look at those tools. You have the $40 set?

Ted, that's a great idea, never considered it. Glad I asked a stupid question. If I start doing more distance driving, I will definitely add a hub to the kit. Anybody that has done a highway roadside repair in the full dark with trucks flying past will attest to the fat that getting it done quickly is a big help and might save your life. The hub assembly for mine is only 50 bucks (no brakes).

 PB, that is definitely in my plans but I hadn't thought about 110v, I figured all 12v. A phone charger port would be real handy at shows where one can sit all day fiddling around. My rough plan was a 12v battery (haven't picked a size yet) mounted inside someplace, a maintainer (have no clue what to spec out, and a solar panel to keep it up (again, I have no clue about sizing and interconnections on these). I would like to keep the cost as low as possible. Mainly it is for the interior lights and not too much else. I might go with a garden tractor battery and down the road might add a line to the charger from the truck harness to charge while I am driving. Any specific suggestions here from anyone would be greatly appreciated. I did add a 110v power entry port for when it's at home or I might have power available, or I might get one of those quiet 3kw generators someday.

[SawyerTed]

You might consider wiring a charge circuit from your tow vehicle to you trailer house battery.  Campers have a charge circuit through the 7 pin plug.  That way house batteries are topped off when you disconnect the trailer each way. 

Between that and a little NOCO battery maintainer,  house batteries will stay charged. 

A little 12 volt marine fuse block and ground block would be a good idea if you are wiring lights, charge ports for phones etc. Those would make adding circuits or diagnosing problems much easier. 

[21incher]

I just have a cheap set I bought from harborfreight.com back in the 1990s. About 1/4 thick stepped aluminum plates with a handle.  I think they were about 7 bucks. I worked with an old Irish  master mechanic when young and was corrected when driving in races with a big socket.  I was told never  hit a race with  steel. Always use wood, aluminum,  or brass. Could  be an old Irish lore but I listened. 
There are some nice solar generators available  now at decent prices if you just need intermittent power. Nice because they can be carried indoors  during  power outages to keep essentials running . Some use battery chemistry that is good for 80% capacity after  4000 charges. A couple peel and stick solar panels on the roof will keep it charged. Only good for above  freezing temps though.  Better then dealing with exhaust fumes at a show should  the wind change direction.  

[TroyC]

I recently put electric brakes on my trailer. To make the wiring simpler I got a harness that consisted of the round 7 pin truck plug that feeds into a junction box that mounts on the trailer frame. The original trailer wires then connect inside the junction box.  The box has studs/nuts to connect all the trailer wires and they are all labeled so it makes it neat and tidy. This setup would also offer the battery charge connection as mentioned above. Put a fuse in the camper battery wire and you're all set. It worked great for me, harness with box and plug was $20-25 from the on-line supplier.

[doc henderson]

HF actually carries a line of solar stuff.  I would consider a deep cycle battery.  Might have room on the tongue if you do not have propane.  I agree with a plug for 110 V and a small trickle charger.  the solar could be used to keep the battery charged for use and to keep from freezing.  you could get a stand up one to use for other things and keep it detachable.  have to stow it for travel.  but then you can position it into the sun at a 45⁰   angle.  Some say the big truck batteries are cheap for the amp hours, but I do not have first-hand knowledge about that.  then and inverter/ charge station of r phones and tablets ect.  prob get an all-in-one inverter with a variety of outputs.  I like that you are fixing up stuff that needs it and the way you want.  the big thing I see over the years, is the person who lets the little thing go, has a junky looking rig.  all the little things add up, and then does not seem like it is worth it to fix.  fix things as you go.  if you plug in at home and do the 7-pin plug to charge while driving, you may not need the solar.  knowing where you live, you may get sales due to idiots thinking you are saving the world with one solar panel.    sounds gratifying.  carry on.

[peakbagger]

The maximum USB wattage is 15 watts. A 50 watt panel in full sun will probably supply enough power to charge a cell phone. No need for a battery  Amazon.com: DC 12V 24V to 5V 6A 30W Dual USB Female DC Buck Converter Adapter Step Down Charging Module : Electronics As long as the sun it out you are good.

When you get into 120 VAC then its more of a challenge as you need to match a battery to its planned usage and charge rate. I am going to skip lithium options that get more complicated.  A deep cycle battery is a good option. You need a charge controller between the panels and the battery to make sure you do not overcharge the battery and in this size they include a device called a Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD) that shuts down the load if the battery gets drained too low. It still is beating on the battery but far less than not having one. One of these Morningstar controllers is a solid rig that last forever.  Amazon.com: Morningstar SunSaver 10A PWM Solar Charge Controller 12V Batteries LVD, Solar Panel Controller Battery Controller Solar Controller 12V, Lowest Fail Rate Charge Controllers for Solar Panels : Patio, Lawn & Garden I picked up a used on ebay for $30 last year. Lots of chinese charge controllers out there but not very reliable.

As for inverters, there are all sorts of cheap small ones out there. 

Home Depot and many other places sell 100 Watt panels. Mount them on the roof facing up making sure you waterproof the holes in the roof, yes you can get more power adjusting the angle of the panel to match the sun but in this case, keep it simple. A panel on the roof of a trailer is less prone to damage than on the sides. If you are in Hail area, I would suggest covering them when not in use. 

As long as you leave home with charged battery and charge it up when you get home that battery will last a long time. 

[Ljohnsaw]

I'd stay far away from HF solar stuff from personal experience.

I got a Renogy controller for my camp trailer and have been very happy with it. I use a physically small panel that I found on the side of the highway. It's 180w, IIRC, and is less than half the size of the 3 panel 45w HF setup I started with.

[SawyerTed]

For an enclosed trailer, adding solar beyond a portable battery charger seems like a complication.  But that's not compatible with our standing rule to spend other people's money indiscriminately.   

I vote for a small inverter type dual fuel generator.  They are pretty inexpensive, extremely quiet and clean if run on propane.

[doc henderson]

and can be used for lots of other stuff after you have one.