I have a couple trails on the new property that have low spots that I want to fill, but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on draining through them. Any suggestions? Probably 20ft width.
its a lot of work but bigger chunky demo. brick, block, concrete and various cobbles. obviously big stuff on bottom and smaller on top. if you have a lot of silts or clays they eventually fill in and clog but itll remain as a firm spot. if the low spot is needed as a flowing draining to prevent impounding water, thats a bit more of a struggle. pipe is hands down best but spendy. big slabby chunks of concrete can be laid over a trough to somewhat preserve it. like laying steel plate over a pipeline trench on the interstate.
alabama dept of forestry i think it was had a video publication from the 70s about laying 6" rock in wire cages for forestry crossings but it takes a lot of rock. the creeks just filter through it. laying cinder blocks side by side to make a double barrel pipe will work well i bet. then throw some landscape plastic or carpet or tarp over it and cover with dirt.
I used some 8" (if I remember correctly) sewer pipe as a culvert.
I believe you need to consider how much dirt will there be over it, and how much water will need to pass through it during strong storms, and how heavy will the loads or equipment going over it are all factors needing consideration as far as size and wall thickness of the material you decide to employ to avoid having to redo it later.
GAB
Let me see ifI can get a still shot from a video. I do have a large stone pile within 50 yards of the one hole. My thinking was like that black corregated pipe, maybe 8" covered in rock then covered up with dirt.
there are 2 challenges. keeping soil out of the rock voids, and keeping the soil that is outside of the rock area from being eaten away.
in flatlands a heavy downpour can be dissipated in all directions. in hill country a heavy downpour is like a rush hour interstate and will erode anything that tries to get in its way, eventually. it looks like youre in flatlands, so hopefully we arent talking about creeks that become rushing torrents, which is what the southeast has, and thus really needs oversize genuine culverts. not much else lasts long. if we put a rock basket out, it needs to be a huge rock basket area wise to accommodate the maximum GPM of a normally trickling creek. if insufficiently sized, the banks will just get wider and wider as the water goes around the rock tunnel. if i put one cinder block tube in a single block sized trench and theres too much water, it will completely eat channels around both sides of the block and now its a 2 block wide trench.
to keep the rock voids from filling in with surface dirt is the other issue. when you cap the rock layer in dirt, the rains will wash the dirt into the voids and now you just have some really solid ground, not a passage any more. this can be avoided pretty well with filter fabric or non permeable sheeting and good pitch to shed water off the cap dirt.
a hand mixed concrete spillway and some wood decking over it on your trail cross may also be viable options for some people.
The. Trouble spots were not rouble spots just seasonal puddles until someone else's kids started blowing through them with atvs. By the time the foot that mattered was put down, not mine at the time, the damage was done.
Two drainage ditches that crosses the farm road by my house had a culvert that was made from logs on each side with large flat rocks across the top. I changed them with concrete culverts when I built my house 20 years ago.
Not sure how old they were but they were there when my grand father bought the land in the 40's, to my surprise the hard wood logs were still good when I dug them out.
A wood structure would be possible too (bridge/board walk). Logs, sawmill, tractor, build.....great video material.
ahh..
this is gonna seem counter intuitive.. but when its fully muddy, fill the holes/puddles with native dirt and churn it all up like concrete mix. when it finally hardens in dry season you should be back to solid ground.
people love to add gravel to a hole and wonder why it just continues to eat gravel. because its a bowl of water with gravel in it and the water keeps slaking the dirt below so the rock can keep being pushed deeper.
dig the gravel out, fill it with water, fill it with dirt, mix to batter, let cure. repeat until original compacted height is achieved then re-gravel. i fix my continual excavations in the pouring rain by shovelling into every puddle and churning it to mush. the dirt must displace the water.
if you live on that sandy super draining stuff i hear about forget everything i said because i have no idea with that dirt.
Hollow logs.
What about building a wooden culvert in my experience wood that is always soaked lasts a long time.
Maybe mill some stuff up and alternate the seams to get a long enough piece. Possibly triangular shape for strength
ya got any cedar logs left from that pile? Any hollow?
If there isn't much flow just a 4" PVC pipe could suffice. Obviously you have to account for all times of the year though.
No, all good and they were all solid. I've got about 50 ft of 4"corregated solid drain pipe. What about laying two chunks side by side, landscape then the field stone then bring it back up with sand. Problem e
With this property is it has a clay ledge about 3ft down, sand topsoil above. Everything has to migrate the off, or evaporate.
@Jeff (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1) a picture would help.
Im press
Im disgusted with myself on some photo and video opps I blew this weekend. One was 30ft from a cow moose in the water eating.
I work for a township and we replace several culverts a year. Most are rotted out on the bottom but would still work for a private road. I would suggest going to your local, smallest government road crew and ask what they do with the old ones.
Quote from: Jeff on April 28, 2021, 03:50:32 PM
Im press
Im disgusted with myself on some photo and video opps I blew this weekend. One was 30ft from a cow moose in the water eating.
Happens, I had a cow with her baby, the baby was diving for lilies in Napadogan Lake. No camera that day. But you've seen some other vids of mine with mature moose wading around in there. Sure you can see it on 'Nature of Things', but those aren't my moose. :D
For the money the plastic corrugated material is good. If heavy equipment is going over probably would need the double wall. It needs to be covered with compacted dirt to prevent water from flowing around the outside of the pipe. You could get some high volumes of water in the spring runoff. Put your rock around each end of the pipe and as top layer if desired. Go on you tube and watch Lets dig 18 install pond pipes and driveway culverts. He explains the do's and don't thoroughly. If you lay two pipes side by side,you have to make sure the space between is filled with compacted dirt or that will be a channel that will allow water to erode through. Fwiw single wall 4" corrugated covered 12" will not hold up to a 9500# excavator crossing it. Your ford tractor would probably be okay.
I've been making new trails this spring to get back with the SS into other wood. I just have some seasonal wet runs that go dry, but the ground is black so a bike could tear it up unless you go softly. So I have been putting down brush and then some rails and then more spruce brush. So corduroy crossings essentially. It has worked well. My trails are slow trails, so no one can go like a maniac on them anyway unless they plan on destroying a bike and themselves in the process. :D I've got acres of rail sized trees all around between the bigger trees, so I don't have to lug stuff far. Well, no lugging because they fit in the back dump anyway, but end toward the cab. I just cut mine 8 ft or so, and not really measuring. This got me out to an old winter road where I can reach more firewood. But I still have 2 or 3 years of firewood just within 100 feet of the main road.
I had a wet spot on a main trail where a tile outlet crossed the trail making it a muddy mess certain times of the year. Had a used 12"X20' driveway culvert laying around for years, decided to put it to use....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38622/drainage_project.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1608420448)
It took about 6 yards of bank run gravel to cover the culvert and blend in the approaches which made kind of a hump in the trail. Also improved the waterway to carry water away. Naturally this was a mild winter and spring so not much run-off but I'm sure it will be an improvement.
Scott B.
From what you describe I think I would put some logs/pipes/cobblestone to let water pass and get some geotextile fabric over the top; then build up your road bed.
What about a 12" double wall culvert. Split in half with a chainsaw. Then lay some gravel ... or not an turn 1/2 culvert upside down. Back fill over it leaving the ends open. This would give you a 6" opening for water and a stronger pipe structure to drive over.
Im in real need of s I me ditching to move water. There is a small pond I want to enlarge that is in the runoff from the trail that needs love first. Im putting together a video right now of a side by side ride through our current trails. There are trails only on the front 20. The back has no trails to it, but possibly has the best trees.
And hunting, but its a long ways back and a wet belt cutting it off from a trail, but a trail is doable.
Video coming in a bit. Then Drone footage maybe in a couple weeks. :)
WE WANT VIDEO, WE WANT VIDEO. WE WANT VIDEO....
Here ya go guys, your goin for a ride! I did this so I could take each and everyone of you with me, as if you were side by side in the little tractor supply 2wd side by side Pete bought before he diedYou will see a few wet spots, but they all usually dry, but are wet when you dont want them wet!
Anyhow, Jump on!
Come on let's go! You and I are going for a ride, SIDE BY SIDE! A U.P. Trail ride. I LOVE DA U.P.! - YouTube (https://youtu.be/9yYzCA_XICk)
I guess I just missed the spot in question for the culvert. Maybe some comments during the ride?
BUT, I did like your choices of music, it was fantastic! BTW, it looks like a REALLY nice place to hunt deer, lots of stands (and feeders).
I sell a 6 inch plastic smooth bore culvert, they all come 20 feet long, for under $100 at work. The bigger you go the more they cost. :o A 6 inch culvert can be picked up my one person.
Yes on the town culvert. They dug one out on my road. They did not destroy it digging it out. I asked for it before they started to dig. ;) It's under about 3 feet of rock up in the bog.
Renting a mini excavator for a day would be productive and fun 😉🙂😎😎
If the area where you want to put the culvert is a swale/drainage ditch, it may have some rough flow data that you can find on the internet. We use a website called StreamStats which is a USGS application. Zoom into the area of interest, select the state on the left hand side, select delineate on the left, and click the blue line on the map where you want your crossing. Once the area delineates, it will show the drainage area that flows through the clicked point, select continue on the left then select "peak-flow statistics". This will show the flow through the selected point for a 1-yr, 2-yr,...thru 100 yr rainfall.
For reference, a 20' long 8" pipe with 2" of fall will flow approx. 1.5 cfs, 10" pipe - 2.5 cfs, 12" pipe - 4 cfs.
This is how we design roadway and driveway culverts for clients at work. Obviously if this is not some kind of waterway and is just a wet area then it's a little more in depth to determine the flow needed.
The water hole in question actually is the only trail I dont take you down. Near the end of the video we see the cabin appear way out in front of us. We turn to the east in the video before we get to the water hole. I started actually doing like mike suggested, filling but just piling it in the edge moving the water out, however I stopped until I get a way to have the go through. So the trail in question coming into the cabin from the south was blocked. I posted the video because I aint got a photo yet. :D
There Is no ditches, but I wish there were. I need c an escavator and one of those land clearing mulchers on tracks. All ofvthat video is only the front north half of the property.
Todd, that music. It all just found me and the lyrics are so fitting. It was like that video made itself. I do hope yall enjoy the ride. Its not every mans dream property, but it is where my heart is. Ive seen and worked this property since it was just brush and tamarack. Those trees were decimated by the eastern larch beetle and we lost hundreds of larch tamarck.
Isn't it odd how we seem to direct these bugs to the trees they like. I mean what if we changed their names? Pine beetles eat the pine trees, that eastern larch beetle clearly likes your larch. How would things look if we had just called it the Emerald Long Bug instead of the Emerald Ash Borer?
Ok - random thoughts off for now, time to get back to work. ;D
There's no flow? The water lays in this spot? Corduroy it if that's the case :)
Thank you that was a nice tour,I think you will enjoy that property more and more as you continue to make improvements.
There is flow when there is a lot of rain or in spring. This spring? very unusual.
The beetle thing was so sad. Our trees of gold in the autumn.
Video from that time.
Larch Harvest Beginning - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONCcdx0i-wE)
Tamarack Salvage Logging with ATV and Logrite Tools - YouTube (https://youtu.be/MWfkpJCoU84)
Thanks for the show.
Nice playground.
Adding a few nice ponds would probably invite more wild life.
GAB
Gerald, why it never occurred to me to dig another pond,I don't know. That might be a better solution than ditching.
Im sitting here waiting to get out of here. 20 minute 2nd covit shot wait. Let me outta here!
Ponds attract wildlife especially during unusually dry periods.
The soil removed can then be relocated to your woods trails where needed.
I had a wet spot in my woods road and the garden rocks went in it.
No more wet spot.
GAB
Rocks might be the answer, if only there was a quarry nearby.... :D
We Impact Everyday Life | Carmeuse (https://www.carmeuse.com/na-en)
Scott B.
Jeff, as you know I had several wet/muddy spots on the upper trail to the Strawfield. If I dug down the culverts would have been below the ground level and doing nothing. I laid the culverts on top of the ground and covered them: LINK (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=107780.msg1735388#msg1735388)
They worked exactly as planned.
Quote from: Jeff on April 29, 2021, 10:15:36 AM
20 minute 2nd covit shot wait. Let me outta here!
Tell them you have a New York watch and you can be outta there in ten. ;D ;D
I walked out at 19 minutes, tipped my hat, and said "I'm a Rebel" :)
Admittedly, I have not read every response on this thread. However, I have built quite a few miles of foot trails for the Feds, developers and private individuals. What I always recommend is shallow water crossings and never culverts.
Unless you keep culvert inlets in the woods maintained, they will get blocked up with debris and wash out. Shallow water crossings were first introduced to me in the mid 90's by the TN Forestry Assn . during a continuing education class on suggested methods of forestry road building. I and my customers have had very good luck with this method.
Basically, you just cut out a swale with a shallow approach and departure angle 8"-12" deeper than required grade. Backfill to grade with 6"-8" riprap and compact. You can also add geotex cloth under the riprap for softer conditions in swampy ground to keep a firmer crossing. If you want an easier to walk over surface, add 3" material over the top of the rip rap or a dense grade limestone product - anything to fill the larger voids and leave a good walking surface. The first heavy rain event will wash off any excess and let the rest of the material settle in place. The crossings will allow massive water flow even with lots of debris and not get clogged up. It will take a major flood event or poor workmanship to allow one of these crossing to wash out.
Back in December, I was helping a customer (and the Feds) install some crossings in a swampy situation by hauling in the materials to the crossings. Some of them were well over 2 miles into the wet. Here I had just gone through a section of 2' deep muck and derailed a track on the left side. We were able to get it back on with the help of his mini excavator without dumping my 6 ton load while already 1.5 miles in from the nearest solid road.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/C60_in_swamp_crossings.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1619737566)
Nice rig TM.
I have experienced a lowered water table by digging ponds to get fill dirt to raise a driveway here in TN. Not sure if itll work up there but been a win win for me.
I know of ponds that were dug out too deep through the clay layer and the water drained away. Other excavations dug through the clay layer into the water sand and created a new spring making the water problem worse :) ;D :) Such is the hydrology in my area :) :)
Corduroy with some pieces of 4" PVC and covered with dirt would get the job done. I was involved in building similar trails. We used old white cedar fence posts for the corduroy.
Strange things can happen in clay!
We are pure clay over sandstone.. Sometimes 2 inches and sometimes 3 feet. Drainage is strictly surface runoff or unknown mole tubes. Several times i have been cutting road and hit a pocket where hundreds of gallons pop out of the ground from a 2" tube thats now exposed.
I have a slope with a subsurface drainage artery and soda can sizes holes along it.
In winter water flows up out of all of them. In summer it drains down into all of them. You can guage the water table with a quick glance at which holes are flowing and which are dry. Its interesting
It's definitely corduroy on my land, land is dead flat and it does flow southward, but like molasses. ;D I got thousands of rail trees, cedar and spruce. Black spruce will last quite awhile in wet. I've seen it last over 10 years, or at least enough to it that a bike would never crush it. :) Denser wood than white spruce and not as brittle. Balsam fir don't hold up for long, but my rail size stuff isn't fir. Was scheming a trail early this morning before the rain to get into some older fir and pistol butted aspen. I figure the moose has something to do with all them crooked stems. ;) Up around there, I've seen gravel knolls yield water, comes out the foot of the hill.
Ive seen a buncher lay tops for corduroy in a winter clearcut. Most logging just wrecks a place into a bellypan ruts if its wet and thats accepted as normal. If trucks need to get in, 3 to 5 limestone is king and its all over since we are a quarrying region. Youre never more than 30 mins from a screening plant.
Out where I was working all week, on a hill that was hardwood, there's limestone or similar, laying all over the ground all fractured and broken up. The bedrock around here is calcareous shales and on that a layer of clay, then till full of stones for 1 to 8 feet deep and then 1 foot of good soil on top. ;D Across the river they mined lime from an old cedar swamp for years, didn't need crushing. Just scooped'r and spread onto the potato fields.
My corduroy material options are not good. Alder, aspen. I do have field stone piles. It never gets impassable by quad.
It's too bad the tamarack all expired from the bug. Comes in handy at times. But yeah, aspen and alder are gone quickly.
Hey! I've got tamarack piles yet. I forgot, but its been piled for ten years. Some of it it still solid as I cut some for bonfire wood. It didn't burn well.
I am in the process of making a 10 foot stretch of rubber mat made of woven tire treads. Very similar to this.
https://www.doubledmats.net/products
Except I am using fence staples crimped on the backside instead of nuts and bolts.
It is pretty easy to cut the sidewalls out of tires with a sharp knife then cut across the tread with a hacksaw or angle grinder. From there it is a matter of weaving the tire treads together.
I am making a 10 foot chunk to test if it works in crossing a narrow stretch of swamp. If it does I plan to make much more of it. It looks like it will take about 2.5 tires per foot.
I also think the sidewalls can be woven like chain mail to also make mats out of.
I find a sawzall works really good for cutting out sidewalls without breaking a sweat. I heat the tip with a bottletorch to pierce it through.
Quote from: Jeff on April 30, 2021, 07:10:50 PM
Hey! I've got tamarack piles yet. I forgot, but its been piled for ten years. Some of it it still solid as I cut some for bonfire wood. It didn't burn well.
No, it can soak up the water like spruce laying around in grass and weeds. I had to move a 30" pasture spruce one time, that was cut on both ends and laid across a road. I had a Logrite peavey and it was a down hill move. The log had been cut for 3 years and was full of water. Heavy heavy heavy. If it were flat ground or up hill it wouldn't have been moved without gas or diesel power. :D
This is a better picture of the area in question. I think im going to corduroy. This is our view from the cabin. Our wildlife viewing lane, and the major entrance to the back traills and field for the tractor. It used to have a puddle years ago before young people and atvs were set loose on it. 2 more spots on trails in the same shape. They are slowly improving by my widening trails and getting more light.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210506_084218.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1620390474)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210506_084241.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1620390464)
if that is not a necessary stream for draining the site, and is just a wet depression... id fill it with native dirt to displace the water first, then corduroy over that to prevent the dirt from being pushed out by tires. in time with a few dry spells the water will never accumulate because the depression will be filled in and once your corduroy breaks down it wont be needed anymore, hopefully.
Thats the plan! Im going to incorporate 2 25ft lengths of corrugated drain hose as well
Its a wet depression in a natural water migration area for big rains or thaws.
I have donated several bundles of slabs for projects just like that.
Jeff, if ever you need waterbars, over here we often use highway railing for thoses. The water tend to raise on the angled edges, and not so much dig underneath.
You mean like the galvanized barricades you see along the highway? I bet those would work awesome, but dead larch may be a bit cheaper... ;)
Quote from: Jeff on May 07, 2021, 01:14:24 PM
You mean like the galvanized barricades you see along the highway? I bet those would work awesome, but dead larch may be a bit cheaper... ;)
Yep, what they call W beam guard rail i think, in the US. Over here, the mountain passes often get trashed. So it's quite easy to gather offcuts. But it's good only for waterbars, on an incline. To avoid water from make gullies. We put these just slightly in the ground, about halfway. At an angle, so the water goes to the downhill side of the roads. Mind you. The chairlift company hasn't done that for a while They make big swale'ish waterbars now. Even concreted ones.
I take your trying to do this as minimal as possible using your own machines. In areas that call for a culvert you can use plastic drainage tile farmers use in the fields or plastic ribbed culvert with smooth inside. Easy to move cut with sawzall and connect together. Stick it in there with no machines and haul several loads of dirt by small trailer like you have and dump on each side and then drive over and dump. That's how I did my trails
In the video some of the areas seem like there is no clear drainage routes and the water stands. Either drive through some of the wet areas, get it to drain, build it up with various wood, dirt, rock or put a couple long telephone poles down and some rough wood for top to drive on then make a little dirt approach at each end
When you do have your own trails to drive on they are fantastic to use and just a joy to ride on
Here is a couple different culverts that have been in a couple years and there has been a lot of heavy rains running through these ravines and this is all they have washed out. They just need to be freshened up some
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/E2A7ACF0-1420-4DCA-8409-EAF05612EEA1.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1620442517)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/8EC436F2-E1A3-4B0D-82F0-8EF5B0E0B0C0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1620442517)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/3E37134E-0DB5-4A41-8793-D7C16EE9D1BF.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1620442564)
Hey! You hit it! There is a 40 foot phone pole laying along that lane and 3 8 ft sections I had left from putting piers under the screen porch a couple years ago. I could use those for a culvert!
Well I would recommend going down to Paris Farmer's Union in Jay Maine
and ask for Ray, AKA thecfarm here on the forestry forum.
Got a heck of a deal on 8" x 20' , just right for my woods road crossing a 12 acre drainage ravine.
N12 ST1B POLY CULVERT PIPE 8INX20FT (https://www.parisfarmersunion.com/N12-ST1B-POLY-CULVERT-PIPE-8INX20FT-p/0225885.htm)
They have bigger sizes if you need it.
And he let me cut it in half for easy transport bringing my own sawzall and ext. cord.
Only needed 10' of it so figure on selling the other 10' on craigslist for $65-$70.
Thanks Ray !
You are welcome. Better hurry, price goes back up on Monday, sale is over.
Took you no time to cut it half!!
Another busy day, so no time to talk.
For horse-skidding with a forecart across standing water, I used corduroy with some brush on top, then some plywood, and lastly enough dirt to keep it stable.
I'm over in the western UP. On the 10 acres where my sawmill sits I've improved and built around 3/8s of a mile of access roads. They have been slowly built up to one lane passages that will handle my F350 plus trailer. I'm fortunate in that most of the ground has a gradual slope with obvious watercourses. Also there is a hilltop with a nice sand and gravel mix I've used to surface the trails. As I built I put in culverts wherever it was obvious I needed to let water pass under the road. Others I've added on an "as needed" basis where it only became apparent later a pipe was needed. As it stands now, I have 6 culverts passing under those 3/8 of a mile.
Even old tired equipment helps ease the work. This was taken from the seat of my skid steer when I had upgraded a culvert and was filling it back in three years ago:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Lot90_CulvertFill_052718.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1620707017)
Most relevant to your situation is probably my newest culvert. This spot is not on one of those obvious drainages but on an area that is quite flat. It didn't occur to me to put a pipe there so I just tried to build up the surface a few times. Much of the time that area was just fine but in spring or rainy seasons in would get quite mushy. Not only is the road flat there but so is the terrain on both sides of the road. After dealing with it on and off for years I decided to try a culvert installation during a very dry August 2019. The culvert I had wasn't quite long enough so I put together a 4' box end addition out of green treated plank:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Culvert6install_lot90_081219a.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1620707211)
As mentioned, this was an extra dry time so the road was solid and I hand dug the trench to the exact size of the pipe. It seemed odd to be digging up the hard packed road but I new I'd be dealing with mud again sooner or later and it allowed me to carefully establish to slope of the pipe with the very gradual slope of the water flow:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Culvert6install_lot90_081219.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1620707319)
The freshly covered culvert at the time of install:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Culvert6install_lot90_081219b.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1620707435)
Since the culvert was below the grade of the road and the surrounding land I had dug a small ditch leading up to the inlet and a ditch and small pool "downstream" of the outlet. A bit anxiously I waited for another rainy season to see if my work would pay off with a more stable road. My biggest revelation was that it did work very well despite the water not having anywhere to go in any hurry. The very existence of the new pond displaced enough water to keep the road high and dry ever since. The plan is to do some ditching through the woods away from the pool but I haven't yet had the very dry conditions return to allow that. As it is the pool will fill to point where it will level off. When I pulled the photos of the culvert installation I couldn't find any showing the adjacent pool, so last weekend I snapped some "update" photos of the setup as it functions today. Here is the spot now. The culvert crosses under at the center of the photo, the settling pool is at left, the small ditch at right:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/MillRdCulvert_lot90_051621a.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621443284)
Here is a better look at the outlet pool, the woods beyond slopes away very gradually, deadfalls etc. impede decent drainage. Long-term I plan to do some clean up so that the pool tops out a couple inches lower than it does now. This small pool of water has been popular with the deer that frequent my lot:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/MillRdCulvert_lot90_051621b.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621443470)
A look at the inlet side, the standing water is a little below halfway on the culvert:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/MillRdCulvert_lot90_051621c.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621443571)
Dead grass is obscuring a clear look at the box end but you can see the ditch that leads to the pool. Given the slight slope of the culvert there is only a couple inches of clearance between the high water level and the top of the box culvert:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/MillRdCulvert_lot90_051621d.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621443689)
Good luck, it's been my experience that even small settling/retention ponds in a troublesome area can make a big difference in keeping the trail high and dry.
I want to add more rock, but enough is enough for today.
Got a 6 hr moderate rain on it this morning, and was still able to work on it today. We started with a sucking mud hole yesterday morning. All thise rocks wildflower and I loaded and unloaded and placed today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/VideoCapture_20210522-212141.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621736708)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/VideoCapture_20210522-212254.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621736284)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/VideoCapture_20210522-211830.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621736200)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/VideoCapture_20210522-211902.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621736396)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210522_194847.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621736545)
Looks pretty good 👍
Great job guys, thats a lot of hard work. Camera catch you takin a dirt nap in the first pic? Ya OK?
Quote from: mike_belben on May 23, 2021, 01:01:13 AM
Camera catch you takin a dirt nap in the first pic? Ya OK?
That's Jeff's way to get into it, head first, or at least back first. ;D
Yikes!!!
Looks good.
I am a still hauling rocks up into the bog. Hope to take a bucket load up this morning. One bucket a day does add up.
Quote from: Walnut Beast on May 07, 2021, 05:30:07 PM
When you do have your own trails to drive on they are fantastic to use and just a joy to ride on
I've gotten to the point where I don't need to drive to town in the truck to "go for a drive", just
Hop on the atv and not even leave my own land, it's great, and it still feels like I "got out and about" and seen some stuff
Yea, im fine. Itll be in the video. ;D
Absolutely, problem solved !!! 8)
Yep looks like you got that beat!
Looks great Folks
Looks good, high and dry. Should last a long time.
Nice to see time lapse images of the project.
Quote from: woodroe on May 24, 2021, 06:17:08 AM
Looks good, high and dry. Should last a long time.
Nice to see time lapse images of the project.
Ive put a video together for the behind the forum channel, but no way to upload it from here. Tammy got internet here a couple weeks ago,but itis dsl and we are at the end of the line, plus I think the upload is throttled to near nothing It takes a couple minutes just to upload a photo to the forum. Were heDed back south this morning though.
This project is in the books guys, thanks for all the help. I figured you wont see this unless I posted it here as only about .001% of members subscribed for notifications of new videos from the behind the forum channel. How about some newbies?
Using our Logrite Tools log arch to build a corduroy trail. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/Cgr3VknjLug)
Nicely done Jeff and Tammy. That's a lot of work and a lot of material moved. Man I would love to get me one of them arches one day. I laughed when you said you had left your cant hooks at home, then I realized that I spent my day loading up the truck and trailer for mushroom log harvesting tomorrow and my cant hook is still standing in the corner by the shop door instead of in the truck. I don't expect to need it, but it does me no good if it's sitting in the shop. So thanks for that. :D
Great project with years of fine results to enjoy.