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Lumber Smith sawmill

Started by jdrakephd, June 06, 2021, 12:57:44 AM

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jdrakephd

June 06, 2021, 12:57:44 AM
Hello everyone, 

First post, but have been lurking for awhile. This forum is a wonderful source of information! I just bought a gently used Lumber Smith portable mill. My project is a walk-in cabin in north Georgia, so I was looking for the lightest mill I could find.

As far as I can determine, Lumber Smith is out of business. Does anyone have tips for working with this mill. Does anyone have an owner's manual you could share. Advice most welcome!

thecfarm

#1
June 06, 2021, 05:58:01 AM
You will like sawing!!!
I have not heard of that mill for a while. I had to do a search to remember what it was.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

farmfromkansas

#2
June 06, 2021, 09:57:19 AM
Cooks Saw on the left makes blades for any mill.  You need to measure your current blade to get a size, but they probably know what length it takes.  Saw a video on U tube of a guy sawing with one of those mills, probably works OK.  But all mills need sharp blades.
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

jdrakephd

#3
June 17, 2021, 09:47:12 PM
Thanks for the tips. Still looking for a manual if anyone has one...

RAYAR

#6
July 06, 2021, 12:57:35 AM
Hi jdrakephd

Decided to check out this manual and save it. Low and behold, I already have a folder for Lumber Smith and have a manual there for the Bantam 26. It's a different manual than this one and shows great set-up photos. If this one would be of any use to you, I can send it your way or upload it on the forum here if there's a place for manuals.
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (431,000 Km)

jdrakephd

#7
July 06, 2021, 04:32:06 PM
Quote from: RAYAR on July 06, 2021, 12:57:35 AM
Hi jdrakephd

Decided to check out this manual and save it. Low and behold, I already have a folder for Lumber Smith and have a manual there for the Bantam 26. It's a different manual than this one and shows great set-up photos. If this one would be of any use to you, I can send it your way or upload it on the forum here if there's a place for manuals.
Yes! Please send (and/or post to thread as an attachment). I'd like to compare the differences. Also interested if you have any other information about this mill or the company.

snaggletooth

#8
December 03, 2021, 08:30:20 AM
I have found some good blades at Blade King that work well on my Lumber Smith saw. I also increased my blade guide bearing life by stacking two bearings instead on using only one. The blades I use - Simonds 7' 9-1/2", 1-1/4" width, 7/8" tooth space, .042 thick.

galstaf

#9
October 11, 2023, 12:43:58 AM
Quote from: RAYAR on July 06, 2021, 12:57:35 AM
Hi jdrakephd

Decided to check out this manual and save it. Low and behold, I already have a folder for Lumber Smith and have a manual there for the Bantam 26. It's a different manual than this one and shows great set-up photos. If this one would be of any use to you, I can send it your way or upload it on the forum here if there's a place for manuals.
Could you please post this manual, Rayar? Thanks so much! 

galstaf

#10
October 11, 2023, 12:49:02 AM
Hi all, I am also trying to resurrect a first gen Lumbersmith that has been in storage for 8 years or so. 
I did get it working back in the day, and was dealing with their sales guy Eddy, but it seems he is retired and has shut down all his websites and LLCs. 
I lost a lot of the parts and all my blades in a house fire so looking for recommendations for a good third party blade that will cut southern yellow pine and oak. Looking for something that is pretty aggressive and quick. The boards are going to be used for siding a cabin, so they don't have to be overly smooth. I just want something that cuts well without distorting. 
I am pretty handy with all manner of tools and machines, but a novice with a sawmill and would love some suggestions on a well priced and durable blade for this 8 horsepower machine. 

galstaf

#11
October 11, 2023, 01:03:33 AM
This is some info I got off Lumbersmith's old FB page in case you haven't seen it. 


How difficult is the sawmill to assemble?

Very easy if you follow the instructions. If you want to "go fast" and the skip the instructions, assembly takes longer. Adjusting the saw takes more time than assembly but only needs to be done once in the life of the saw.
As a part of the Lumber Smith design philosophy, nuts generally have a capture so only one wrench is necessary and most parts are replaceable at the local hardware store if something is lost.
With reasonably careful adjustment the Lumber Smith will cut a 1/16 thick board with a .015 per foot thickness variation. 

 


The Lumber Smith sawmill comes complete with one blade. Sawmill blades can be easily re-sharpened with a Dremel tool (see the video links for more information) but it is always good to have a spare blade.
The Lumber Smith sawmill can use a wide range of blades from a 5/8 inch wide fine tooth blade to the 1.75 wide blade with two teeth per inch. Blade length must be 93 to 93 1/2 inch blades with optimum length at 93 1/4 inches. We recommend either a bi-metal or carbon steel blade 93.5 inch by 1.25 wide with 1.3 teeth per inch with a thickness of .045 inch.

We didn't think folks could over-tighten the blade, but some do! IF you over-tighten the blade, you will burn out the idle wheel bearing! Tighten the blade only by hand. Eight pounds of pressure (the weight of a gallon of water) should move the blade about 3/16 of an inch or more... Notice the ring tone from when it is tightened this much; you will hear a clear ring. Copy that ring tone when installing future blades. Also, make sure you follow the directions of a few drops of oil around the bearing before each day of use.

We have found the best prices are from: Bandsaw Blades Direct.com 

 
Tips for using the saw:
Can I just roll the sawmill on the ground instead of using tracks?

This does not work very well but it is possible to merely roll the saw on the ground. The problem is that you get boards that match the bumps and dips in the ground. If you need something more flexible than our normal track system, a better solution is to make a track made with a 2 by 4 with a 1 inch edge nailed to it. Stakes driven into the ground keep the track and the log from sliding.



Is there an automatic feed for the saw?

Yes, this is best viewed on the videos and we find it very helpful if we are cutting multiple logs.
We use an eight foot step ladder with a bucket of sand suspended between the legs on three pulleys (i.e. geared pulleys). We use the three pulley setup because it pulls further than the five feet or so you get with a step ladder. The weight of the sand pulls the saw down the track and stops when the bucket touches the ground.Do not leave unattended.
 
How wide a board can I cut?

You can square a 24 inch wide log in order to cut boards up to 18 inches wide – but that is tight cutting. This machine can comfortably cut 16" boards. 
 
 
The Right Engine! We use a Honda 5.5 hp Model# GX160HX2.

This is a great little engine and, for us, starts on the first pull each time. The engine is professional grade and has a 6:1 gear reduction ratio. It weighs about 28 pounds.

Since the 5.5 hp is the same weight as the 4HP -- we use it, even though it costs more. 

 
 
 
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