Daily Fabrication Thread

[mike_belben]

Worse than cutting the dime a dozen M4s... Some bean counter decided it was a good time for some house cleaning and i had to cut up the original M3 "grease guns."  WW2 full auto sub machine guns.. hand machined, hand welded prototypes made of sheetmetal, tube, barstock etc.  Plus silencers.  


I ran around for an hour trying to find someone who would step in and save these relics.  They shoulda been in the glass museum cases up front.  Where was roy jinks when i needed him.

[g_man]

I was looking to raise the height of the drawbar on my tractor. It is about 12" off the ground, 3-4" lower than tongue height would be on my trailers for level. Looking for an off-set drawbar for my model (M7060) - I could find nothing for a simple off-set bar. Only a bolt-on hammer strap that would raise it 3" And that was very pricey. So I had my local fab shop bend a piece of 1-1/2 X 2-1/2 cold-rolled bar for an offset of 4" and drill two holes. I was a bit concerned that the cold-rolled steel is not as strong as OEM draw bar, as I believe those are an alloy steel, not mild steel. So I added a section that used a second hole and pin. Hopefully that will resist any tendency for tongue weight to bend the bar down.



 

 

 

First test of the new offset draw bar. So far so good. Gross weight of full trailer is about 14,000lbs. Unsure of tongue weight. Maybe 1,000-1,500 lbs?



 

Looks good but something you might what to watch. I had a hitch like that but a much lighter trailer. I run it on rough terrain with lots of sharp dips and humps. I didn't have enough vertical slop and bent the pin - had to cut it out. You have a nice long slot on the lower trailer  clevis but you might need some slop on your draw bar too. This is what I ended up with.


 
gg

[Tacotodd]

Does everybody realize that a pintle hitch does the same things?

[btulloh]

A swinging drawbar on a tractor isn't set up to add a pintle, although anything can be fabbed. Most times they are going to have a clevis attached. I pefer to use a 3pt attachment with a receiver and hitch ball on that for trailers. The swinging drawbar is s close to the axle it's harder to get the trailer to swing when backing.  The tongue can even foul the tires going forward and making a sharp turn. 

The hitch pictured is very much like the old equipment worked right after it changed from horse drawn to tractor pulled. 

Besides, if it gets the job done, it's all that counts. Done is done. Always a next job waiting to be done!

[PoginyHill]

I was looking to raise the height of the drawbar on my tractor. It is about 12" off the ground, 3-4" lower than tongue height would be on my trailers for level. Looking for an off-set drawbar for my model (M7060) - I could find nothing for a simple off-set bar. Only a bolt-on hammer strap that would raise it 3" And that was very pricey. So I had my local fab shop bend a piece of 1-1/2 X 2-1/2 cold-rolled bar for an offset of 4" and drill two holes. I was a bit concerned that the cold-rolled steel is not as strong as OEM draw bar, as I believe those are an alloy steel, not mild steel. So I added a section that used a second hole and pin. Hopefully that will resist any tendency for tongue weight to bend the bar down.



 

 

 

First test of the new offset draw bar. So far so good. Gross weight of full trailer is about 14,000lbs. Unsure of tongue weight. Maybe 1,000-1,500 lbs?



 

Looks good but something you might what to watch. I had a hitch like that but a much lighter trailer. I run it on rough terrain with lots of sharp dips and humps. I didn't have enough vertical slop and bent the pin - had to cut it out. You have a nice long slot on the lower trailer  clevis but you might need some slop on your draw bar too. This is what I ended up with.


 
gg

I recall seeing your innovation and like it. I have also hinged the hitch quite a bit on steep terrain and gullys. Between the lower slot on the trailer hitch and a fair amount of slop in the draw bar hole (If I recall 1.25" hole and 7/8" pin), I've not have any problems. I have also considered putting a large shackle through the drawbar and turning the trailer hitch 90 deg the act similar to a pintle hitch as @Tacotodd mentions. Has anyone done this?

[mike_belben]

i towed a small trailer home with a 3/4 forestry rope once.  does that count?  

;D

[mike_belben]

Im not sure if it counts as fab work when the thing quite accidentally bolted right on.  Forgot i even had this blade. 


With the tractor tied up to run the backhoe and the bobcat dead for a while i was without any easy means to tidy up the loose dirt or feed spoils to the stationary hoe for loading up to wheelbarrow away.  All my joints are wearing out pretty rapidly from this osteoarthritic skeleton thats propping me up... so my days of toughing it out with a pick and shovel need to start being minimized. 

[HemlockKing]

Getting old mike lol 

Some days you gotta tough it out though, to prove yourself you're still in this ;D . Anyone who has done work by hand(especially dirt work) can really appreciate when the machinery comes in play. They don't pay enough in trades, it literally destroys your body. 

[Crusarius]

Mike, when the sad day comes that quad dies, your going to have to put about 20 grand under the seat before you bury it. You owe at least that to it

[mike_belben]

As christian as i may be, my machinery believes in reincarnation!

;D

[Crusarius]

Hopefully it gets reincarnated into an easier life?

[Ventryjr]

 



Picked up at harbor freight apex 12k winch going to give it a try this weekend to help skid some logs around in the woods.  I have 2 truck battery's and a solar charger.  I'm going to use it as a back up to my ctl.  For logs over a bank. Seems a tad flimsily for 12k lbs. we will see. 

[mike_belben]

Realize that the unit can winch in 12k but it can only drag 6k by the load holding brake.  So dont go dragging the logs with the machine while the winch motor is not powered up. Ive killed a brake that way and its a substantial teardown to replace

What are you mounting that on?

[mike_belben]

I had hoped it would work as a vibratory sheepsfoot for compacting clay but im not impressed so far.  

Had doubts from the start and hedged my bets by clocking the pucks 90* different so that theyd work as a rotary pulverizer also.  Need something that can prepare a seedbed, strip sod and so forth.  

[barbender]

Tail pulley?😊

[Ventryjr]

Realize that the unit can winch in 12k but it can only drag 6k by the load holding brake.  So dont go dragging the logs with the machine while the winch motor is not powered up. Ive killer a brake that way and its a full teardown.

What are you mounting that on?

I'm not going to drag with the winch. My idea for it is to be able to drop next to a tree. Chain the skid I made to the tree and winch from that point. Also be able to move around the woods w/ forks on any piece of equipment.  I initially thought I would put 2 handles on it and make it a 2 man carry. But I think it's weighing in around 400lbs currently so no man powered carrying lol  Basically My plan is to use this when I'm either stuck or have a log I can drag out with the skid steer due to space.  I also picked up the harbor freight tree strap and snatch block.  Going to give it all a spin today. 

[Crusarius]

I had hoped it would work as a vibratory sheepsfoot for compacting clay but im not impressed so far.  

Had doubts from the start and hedged my bets by clocking the pucks 90* different so that theyd work as a rotary pulverizer also.  Need something that can prepare a seedbed, strip sod and so forth.  

how did that end up working mike? I have been wanting to build one of those for a very long time. especially since my ground is all clay and the only time it ever seems to break up is when its to hard and dry to do anything with.

edit: 
I see its just a vibratory one you do not have the roller part powered. that would be an easy fix with the right gearbox.

[mike_belben]

@Ventryjr  

I hate to rain on your parade but ive done what youre doing.  The 2 batteries will be deeply discharged in short order and permanently harmed unless theyre deep cycle.   I have a pair of 925cca group 31 semi batteries on my old kubota for an 8k winch and the 10 amp generator cant keep them up.. Tractor wont start after heavy winching and i need to put on an alternator.   The bobcat also uses dual 925cca's with this winch and a 65amp 12si and it is okay.  


When the winch cable pulls, pauses and pulls again even though you didnt let off the button you better stop for the day.  Its the voltage getting dragged down too low for the switching contactor magnetism to hold against the return springs.  As the voltage drops the amp draw rises and the copper contacts inside will arc.  They can melt, weld in the on position and catch fire.  Listen close for solenoid clacking.

[Ventryjr]

@mike_belben thats what I put on it was 2 group 31s.  I didn't think about the voltage drop/contactor issue. Do you think 2-6v scissor lift batteries would work better? I have access to refurbs batteries very cheap. I could also wire up a quick connect charging setup to my ctl and tractor. 

[mike_belben]

I ran old arc stinger cables up my boom to anderson connectors and its been flawless.  Everything in the yard has andersons so the bobcat was a mobile jumper box until i bent a valve. I also have some really long 2awg jumpers with welding clamps and an anderson so i can charge anything off the bobcat or run the receiver winch off anything with a 2" hitch and a battery/alt.  

@Crusarius 

That frame is just a vibratory roller.   the smooth drum works good on dry loose clay as a smoother but not really any compaction gained.  The sheepfoot just disturbed dry clay and i havent had a chance to try on wetter stuff that it may work okay on.  Sheepfoot did do surprisingly well as a clodbuster, breaking up big, dry bowling balls into granules that will spread better.

   

[scsmith42]

I decided to put together a new welding and layout table for my little little log cabin machine shop (not to be confused with "Log Cabin Republicans", ).

Out in the main shop I have a nice 4' x 8' steel table (seen in the first pic), but in the machine shop the welding table consisted of a 24" square plate of 1/2" steel that sat on a couple of wood saw horses.

At an auction I picked up some cast iron legs that came off of a piece of industrial equipment, and a local scrap yard had a nice piece of 3' x 4' steel plate in 3/4" thickness. I had some nice heavy steel casters left over from a different acquisition a number of years ago that were also allocated to the project.



 



I decided to install the legs in a splayed out position in order to allow me more external room for clamping at the top, yet not sacrifice stability. This also allows good room for me to sit on a tall stool while TIG welding.  Some wedges were made to take care of the leg angles.






The top was drilled and tapped so as to be able to bolt the leg assemblies in place.  Bevel washers were used to keep the bolt head alignment in the proper plane.



  



  



Today I took delivery of a 16mm annular cutter for my mag drill so that I can drill the top for some Bessey style clamps. I'm pleased with how it came out. It's nice and tall so I don't have to bend over when using the MIG or stick, and a stool works fine for TIG work. It is very stable too. It's not as nice as many of the ones that I've seen fabricated by fellow WW members, but it works well for my purpose.



 

[mike_belben]

Looks great.  Now i want to know more about the... camper chassis service trailer ???

[Walnut Beast]

Looks fantastic. Pretty sharp looking red 👍

[scsmith42]

Looks great.  Now i want to know more about the... camper chassis service trailer ???

Not a camper chassis....

A few years back I picked up a surplus utility bed that came off of a Class 6 welding supply truck to use as a mobile shop trailer around the farm.  

I fabricated a chassis with 7" channel with a pair of 7,500 lb brake axles. 
 
Mounted at the front of the trailer is a Miller Trailblazer Pro 350D with 250' of welding cable lead and 71 gallons of available fuel.  There is a suitcase MIG, plasma torch, carbon arc torch, oxy-propane set, 80 gallon air compressor and a drill press all on the trailer.

I keep pure CO2 and tri-mix on board for the suitcase MIG.  Also have a push-pull gun for aluminum.




 


 


 


 


I still have a few more mods to do to the trailer before painting it.  Mainly I'm planning to lower the center deck section about a foot so as to have a more convenient height for working.

A hinged bumper in back allows access to under-deck metal storage.

[mike_belben]

Wow is that thing rigged out or what.  

I was on the fence about being a camper frame. The hubcaps and steps made me think it was a good guess.