I share Troy-Bilt hydraulic splitter with other families and it has developed a leak at a gasket on the valve. It is a simple matter to remove the part and replace a gasket but I don't know what, if anything, will fall out when I remove the part. It is marked with masking tape in the pic. The manual doesn't show a breakdown of the valve parts which is the reason for my inquiry. Concerning the gasket: I will probably have to cut a new one so is there a particular gasket sheet material designed for hydraulic fluid or can I use the same I use for motor oil?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/IMG_0354.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1648492724)
The piece of tape is on a cover. If that is leaking, then there is a leak in the seal for the spool further into the valve. The cover contains the stuff for the detent auto-return. There is a sleeve, spring, and a ball bearing if memory serves me correctly. You can look up a Prince wood splitter valve to get a schematic of what it looks like. Any brand will have a similar design.
I agree. mine has oil coming from a disc with a c clip. I got the schematic, and it is a U shaped cup that seals that end of the spool. I ordered a packing kit. not all O rings but some special seals as well. see if you can find a number or contact the manufacture to get the make and model of the valve.
Thanks, guys. I was just reluctant to jump into taking it apart because I am one of 6 owners of the splitter. I have good info to go on now.
You should be able to find a new complete valve for less than $150. It might be less aggravation to simply replace it and be done.
Agreed. Surplus center new changeout. Hundred bucks split 6 ways is nothing.
If you can find out who made the valve and the part number Surplus for one does have rebuild kits for a fraction of a new valve .I doubt if Troy Built as a company actually made that valve .It could be something as simple as saw dust, dirt etc. could have gotten stuck in the valve .Things happen .
Look at Surplus Center Lincoln Ne It appears to be a Energy valve $69.95 Part number 9-12696. Most of the time the spool or housing is worn enough if you put seals and O rings in it will be leaking again in short order.
even better, 11 bucks each. save the old one and take it apart to see if it is repairable.
I think mine is a Prince 20 gallon per minute it was a lot cheaper than listed these days though .Only once has it leaked although it won't hold the cylinder up for a long time these days ,about two weeks it sinks .It sucked in a piece of something that allowed the detent not to hold ,kicked out early .It's got a return line filter but evidently that doesn't catch everything . All I did was clean it out .Surplus has some tutorials on these valves .
If you do intend to take it apart, google lost/flying detent balls before you do. If done without care, at least one of the balls will find a nook or cranny you do not know exists.
Putting the detent assembly back together is easy IF you know the trick. I find a 1/4" nut driver works best with my non-energy valve. YouTube is your friend.
i find detent balls are best reserved for dropping down into the transmission you just rebuilt and installed. sorta like the best place for a lifter to fall off the pushrod and land sideways is right there under the cylinder head you just put back on.
learn to wrench they said...
I contacted Energy and they have a valve for my splitter but the handle has to be reversed. They even told me how to do that. Also contacted Surplus Center but they couldn't say for certain it (the same one hedgerow cited) would replace the Energy valve I have. So I will go with the manufacturer. I'm waiting to hear from all the co-owners of the mill before I order. Thanks to all.
The replacement valve came today and I thought it would be rather straight forward to replace the old one with it. The fitting that connects the valve to the hydraulic cylinder is a 1/2"-14 pipe nipple and I could unscrew it from the cylinder but I could not unscrew it from the old valve. (I need it for the new valve as it did not come with any fittings.) I put the old valve in a bench vise and used a 7/8" open wrench with a 30" pipe inserted around the other end for leverage. The fitting would not budge. The hexagonal corners of the steel pipe nipple rounded under the high torque. :( No problem getting a new one but my question is: Is it OK or wise to use a sealant when I re-install the fittings? They have to be so tight that I might not get it tight enough to get an adequate seal and I'd hate to end up with my own leaks. Are sealants prone to leak under high hydraulic pressure?
Pipe dope. No Teflon tape for hydraulics.
Most high pressure hydraulic fittings use beveled end connectors to make a wide seated seal. If it leaks, then one of the two surfaces is marred and should be replaced. Moderate pressure systems will use O-rings or soft metal washers such as copper.
For attaching fittings on the ends of hoses or cylinders, it is recommended to use a teflon based paste. The reasoning being the teflon sealing tape can sometimes get a piece in the fluid and it can clog holes in valves and cause other problems. Loctite makes a highly regarded teflon based paste. The teflon acts as a lubricant to allow a tighter connection with less effort.
You can use teflon tape, but it is not recommended.
All parts received and installed. I used Teflon based paste for the sealant. It splits and doesn't leak. Thanks for all the tips.
Teflon tape is relatively new and some people prefer it as an option over pipe dope mainly because it's neat and tidy .However good old gooey pipe dope has been around since old Shep was a puppy .If it worked in 1922 it will still work in 2022 .Good old Rectorseal will get er-done but always remember tight is tight ,too tight is broken .
Quote from: Al_Smith on April 18, 2022, 01:22:20 PM
Teflon tape is relatively new .
Not sure why you would call something in use over 50+ years ago new Al. Back in the late sixties I was plumbing up compression mold die hydraulic cylinders at GM with teflon tape as a tool and die maker. The pipe fitters were also using it to plumb the steam heating lines on the molds. I started in the tool room in 1962 and it was in common use in our plant.
Okay so it's as old as dirt but that wasn't the point .-----
Quote from: kelLOGg on April 18, 2022, 07:18:54 AM
All parts received and installed. I used Teflon based paste for the sealant. It splits and doesn't leak. Thanks for all the tips.
Glad to hear you have it fixed. Now on to splitting wood.