Need advice on sawing locust

[TmbrWlkr]

I have a Norwood HD36 and am still learning.  Got it to augment my main business which is salvaged industrial timbers ( pretty much all softwoods).  Now I am going to be sawing locust posts for a retaining wall.  Any advice on blades wood be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

[Bruno of NH]

I have sawn lots of black locust logs as of late.
WM turbo 7's have worked well for me when the logs aren't frozen.
The dust is the not so fun thing about it.
You also need to flip the logs alot as sawing.

[Wudman]

Is the locust dry or green?  Dry locust fits on the spectrum somewhere between cast iron and mild steel.   :D

Wudman

[Patrick NC]

I use 7° kasco blades on my hd36 for everything from white oak to yellow pine and cedar. It's the same profile as the Norwood 7° sabertooth but $5 cheaper per blade. I've never cut locust, but I have cut some dry white oak with no problem. If it's harder than white oak I'd probably try 4°

[terrifictimbersllc]

7 turbo for me. It's hard but not as hard as steel. 

[doc henderson]

a straight log with be great, any branch point will tend to pull you blade a little.  very dense.  cut a bit thick so you have some room to flatten and plane.  I have only sawn honey locust

[dgdrls]

Center your pith posts,
If they're green you should be fine
dry is a bit tougher,
Strip the bark off before you start sawing.

D

[TmbrWlkr]

Ok guys - thanks for all the advice. Cut 6 posts today with the blade that was already on the mill (ashamed to say I don't know the brand (1 1/2" 7 degree). Seemed surprisingly ok - but logs are only 3 weeks out of the woods.  Back at it tomorrow and will switch to a Norwood 7 degree - seems the key is to cut it green?  Will keep you updated.

[Gary Davis]

I have been cutting black locust with 10 degree with no problem