iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Sawing thickness for tongue and groove paneling

Started by fluidpowerpro, September 14, 2022, 09:55:42 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

fluidpowerpro

I have an upcoming sawing job for someone that will use the boards for tongue and groove paneling. I have never sawed boards for that use before. Is there a standard thickness I should saw them to allowing for kiln drying and planing? If the species matters, it will be sugar maple, red oak, birch and ash. 
Thanks,
Tom
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

beenthere

I'd venture to say saw 4/4 and it be 1/16" over actual 1". (corrected)

After drying should plane out to final size of 3/4" finished dry. Somewhat dependent upon width of the paneling boards.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Southside

Standard finished T+G is 3/4".  For wall paneling I can see getting away with it being a bit thinner.  The issue becomes face material thickness to the tongue, but on a wall I don't see that being a problem.  I normally saw all my T+G blanks at 1" and don't have an issue finishing at 3/4".
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

fluidpowerpro

Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

stavebuyer

1 /1/8" green. Shiplap is much more forgiving than T&G. I would mention and recommend for it for walls and ceilings.

customsawyer

I would saw hardwood at 1 1/8 or 4/4 on the hardwood scale. In line with what Stavebuyer said you might check with the customer and see if they are wanting V-Groove (lots of customers call this T&G) or ship lap.  Both are lots easier to install with ship lap being the easiest. To me by cutting at just 1" you might gain a board or two on a few logs but might lose more than that that (Tom) don't clean up on the finishing side.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

jpassardi

I assume you are cutting pine for this? We just planed and machined 4/4 white pine for the ceiling for a closed in gazebo I'm building for the Wife. We shiplapped it and put a 45 (V) cut on the face. If you RC it 1 1/6 they'll be in good shape once dry.
For the walls we made bead board with shiplap (rabbets) they are 9/16 finished. Had to make 5 cuts on each one with bead cutter in table saw and rabbet cuts on shaper. A lot of handling but they look pretty sharp when done.
LT15 W/Trailer, Log Turner, Power Feed & up/down
CAT 416 Backhoe W/ Self Built Hydraulic Thumb and Forks
Husky 372XP, 550XPG, 60, 50,   WM CBN Sharpener & Setter
40K # Excavator, Bobcat 763, Kubota RTV 900
Orlan Wood Gasification Boiler -Slab Disposer

Don P

If 6" or narrower 1" will clean up at 3/4" pretty reliably. 1-1/16" will clean up, 1-1/8" will sometimes take another pass for me to get through the planer depending on cup, it is eating a mouthful. I like 7/8 clean for a lot of things or if wider to allow for cup, so generally saw 1-1/8. I just did a whack of 1x6 sheathing I knew would all be 3/4 so we sawed 1", kd, and just about everything cleaned up. I'd say the very few that did not were probably scants.

I've never seen the point in shiplap. If you're working the edge put on a T&G. You get a concealed nail and continuous edge support.

kantuckid

My basement is paneled in shiplap EWP and my upstairs bedrooms and baths are T&G EWP. Both wood projects were done using my wood provided airdried by me. Some people like the esthetic of ship lap and it's much easier to nail no matter nails hidden both ways. No parts to FIT! together matters for labor time. It also utilizes boards that the edge processing don't get cleaned up when running T&G, thus a higher yield of usable product. I suspect the latter is the main value. 
The shiplap was KD and processed by a local commercial poplar processor who specialized in poplar wall & floor panels. They did walls shiplap, floors T&G.
They burned out and never built back but other mills in Morehead, KY still produce much poplar shiplap and T&G. I saw some of the first any mill there had done back in the late 1980's/early 90's, as a local lady whose brother owned one mill gave her some for her antique shops extension room. it was the very first I'd seen use of yellow poplar for interior millwork.  Fact is, he was one of the first there to produce something besides lumber & export logs as an end product. Now its in very common use.  
If it was my job, done for myself I'd saw for 4/4 spot on, for someone else to be KD, I'd do the 1 1/16" rough to save them saw bill time vs. end product. My point is that done by me and for me I can selectively plane the lumber as I have a one sided planer and can choose the best face on each board and still have a proper edge joint.  Commercially the machine is less forgiving.
I sawed and air dried 3MBF of 2x6 T&G for my own use which was finished last winter & early spring. I got by OK sawing 1 3/4"-1 7/8" with a few that are a bit shy both faces. Maybe 10% are partially rough on bad side. The worst, tad thin ones I marked the ends as I T&G'ed them and they will become eaves, i.e. rear overhang on the back of my cabin project. It's structural so shiplaps not a candidate of course. 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

OlJarhead

I'd ask the customer what their final project thickness would be.

In my case, I milled all my cabin paneling at 3/4", dried it and planed it down to 1/2" and made T&G out of it.  It's held up very well.

Most would do it at 1" and dry/plane to 3/4 though.

Oh and since it's all going to be hardwoods, make that 4/4 ;)
Cheers
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

barbender

I've had operators of smaller planer molders like the Logosol machines not want it thicker than 1" if planing to 3/4", because it works the machine harder and if the material is well sawn it is just extra to take off. So I'd agree with the comment if the paneling is 6" or under in width, 4/4 should be good. 

I think the industry term for tongue and groove with the beveled edges is WP4.
Too many irons in the fire

beenthere

barbender points out the paneling pattern WP4 which is the pattern shape with specifications spelled out by WWPA (Western Wood Products Association).
https://westernwoodsinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/WWPA-Standard-Patterns.pdf 



 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

barbender

I would plane it on one side at a minimum, to keep the material a consistent thickness and help it lay flat.
Too many irons in the fire

Don P


Ljohnsaw

WP2 was used in the two cabins very near my cabin build, which were constructed in the 1920's.  It is very common in real cabins and older ski lodges up there in the Sierras.  The newer "cabins" are just houses build in the woods. ::)  I was really thinking just WP4 for my cedar wall boards but maybe I'll see if they can do WP2 to add interest to the walls.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: Don P on September 15, 2022, 05:01:44 PM
What do you all call WP-2?
I call it "Nice".  :)
 When my Dad fished our basement when I was about 5 y/o he used WP-2 for the lower half of the walls and sheet rock for the upper half. I really liked the way it finished up and it looked just great.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Don P

I know it as "Pickwick", I don't know if anyone else knows it as that  :D. Yes in homes through maybe the early 50's. I've seen it in chestnut in one of the mill owners houses up here.

I'm trying to figure out some T&G bead and center bead 1x6 poplar for replacements in the old farmhouse. I think it'll take the planer, routers for the sides and a craftsman molding head in the tablesaw to do the beads.

So I was replacing the lawn mower spindles the other night and they ended up on the radial arm bench where there were 2 craftsman molding heads sitting. Yup the molding heads slid on the ball bearing spindles pretty as you please and there was enough nut to lock them down. So I set them up like side heads on a molder, pulleys still on the other end of the housing, thirty bucks a spindle, bolt it on the back of the planer... hmmm.

beenthere

Pics of that going together would be nice to see. And what brand/model lawn mower spindles? Gives some new ideas.  tks
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Don P

It's a Lowes Troy Bilt, I think any MTD 42" deck of recent vintage. The spindle slides apart easily. It sits on it well enough but I think I'd have the blade drive "star" removed and machine that collar nice and flat for big full support.

Thank You Sponsors!