Fabtek Bar Oiler Assembly Adjustment

[c greenham]

Good Day,

Just wondering if anyone knows how to turn the flow down on the bar chain oiler assembly.  The one on the Fabtek seems to run out quickly, 4 liters in two hours of operation.

Any help greatly appreciated.

[c greenham]

Is there a way to adjust the oil feed rate, if so how is it done?

[Corley5]

Mine had a flow control valve near the bar oil tank.  According to the manual it was supposed to have a knurled handle.  Mine was gone and I used a crescent wrench to adjust the flow.

[c greenham]

Thanks,

I will have another look, but I couldn't find one on my first inspection.

[c greenham]

I can't see either valve   
 

 

 

[Firewoodjoe]

I've been waiting to comment on this. Because I wasn't sure. I don't think mine has an adjustment. But I do know I have two saw mounts. When one needs work I just swap it out. (The sliding block with the 4 studs in it) One uses half the oil the other one does. So that block itself will affect oil flow. Haven't been into it that deep yet to see if it's seals or just bigger oil passages that create the extra flow. Sorry I can't give you a better answer. I'd follow your oil hose back. If nothing is inline then something in that block is affecting it I'd guess. 

[c greenham]

I cant find a way to turn down the flow no valve on the line from the pump to the bar.  Can I put in a manual valve on the line before it goes in the bar?

[BargeMonkey]

 I put a valve in my Timbco barsaw yrs ago in the hose below the tank because it used way to much, haven't had a problem since. 

[Firewoodjoe]

I put a valve in my Timbco barsaw yrs ago in the hose below the tank because it used way to much, haven't had a problem since.

That's what I'd do. And I may on mine. I notice sometimes not always which is weird but sometimes the saw box will be full of oil after sitting overnight or all weekend. Thought maybe I could shut it off when I shut down. Kinda sickening we have to save that small amount of oil but these days with prices it all adds up. 

[Skeans1]

@Firewoodjoe
Sounds like the plunger o rings are bad, I'm trying to remember exactly how that style works. I'd have to go into the shop in the morning and see what I have still laying around from those but my head says it's a spring and plunger setup.

[c greenham]

Hi All,

Over the weekend I had a chance to do some more cutting. I did notice that the saw chain had a few links broken, the side plates.  This was a new chain with only roughly 10 cords cut.

Do you think lack of oil could have caused this?

I ended up with pinching the chain and kinking it, I guess I will figure this harvester business out someday.

Thanks for your help.

[Firewoodjoe]

Lack of oil? I thought it was getting to much. These chains are crazy tough. I've had mine smoking and turning the bar blue so I think you'd notice lack of oil to cause that kind of damage. I kink my chains sometimes. I lay it on a soft stump and hit it with a hammer. Works most of the time as long as it's just bent. You'll get the hang of it. Will the machine lift the tree off the stump? If not, that is prolly the worst because your bar is in danger zone. I'm really happy I got this bigger machine vs the fabtek carrier. I can lift most trees depending on height and top. Just keep working at it. It can be frustrating. 

[c greenham]

Thanks Firewoodjoe,

I'm wondering were the unit goes through so much oil the tank might have emptied before I noticed it causing it to break a side plate.

I took the chain off and got the kink almost out going to try it this evening.

The machine can easily lift the timber I'm cutting mostly 6 -8 inch fir.

[chevytaHOE5674]

I've ran out of bar oil and the chains will smoke quite a bit, turn blue, seize, grenade the bar tip,etc, but never had the chain break side straps because of heat that I remember.

[c greenham]

I got the kink out of the chain I did notice one of the side plates broken and a tooth missing.  I continued to use the chain it worked will until about two cords then the chain went flying in the woods. 

I learned the hard way always repair the broken links.  I found the chain after a bit of effort, got it repaired will try again this evening.

Thanks for your help boys.

[Firewoodjoe]

We'll keep trying lol but I feel like there's something else. Like maybe your hitting something🤷‍♂️ I'm just trying to think why you'd have broken side straps and a broken tooth. I can crank my saw arm speed up in 20" hardwood to the point it starts jumping in the cut and will blow a saw seal and have never broken a chain unless it's been bent or pinched. 6-8" fir should be a cake walk. I've had the same chain on for the last 600 cord. And sharpened  maybe 6 times. But it is mostly boring, dead boring, aspen and pine. 6-24". 

[c greenham]

I think the chain was stretched that much it actually hit the sire of the saw housing, I ended up taking a link out to shorten the chain.  I believe that may have caused the tooth to break.

[Skeans1]

Check the sprocket I seem to remember something like that happening once with a bad sprocket.

[Ed_K]

 Please enlighten me on the use of the saw chain if it's been stretched, broken a side link and broken a cutter tooth? That chain should have been throne away. That chain throne out into the woods could cause harm to you or someone out in the area. I'm sorry to say that but I've seen a chain stuck in a window of the harvester.

[Firewoodjoe]

True but it's his time and money not ours. And I think the bigger question is why was the harvester operator working with the chain in line with the window and why was the person within 300 feet of the machine. Or even on a active job site. 
 
Not that it matters but these old fabtek heads and being 3/4 chain don't spin fast. 

[Skeans1]

@Firewoodjoe
You're still spinning 3500 rpm's at the shaft if I remember correctly. That said when you're bucking even if you're not looking at the tip you're still in the line for chain shot which is as simple as something coming out the snow holes. I've seen a lot more pictures of 3/4" chain pieces in the windows of machines. The system is normally one and done on chains so one fix of any sort then the next time it needs fixed toss it. 5 chains, 2 bars and one sprocket is what's normally what's recommended for cutting system.

[c greenham]

Thanks Guys for the input.

I have no experience with operating this machine, its a learning curve forsure.  I will definitely keep an eye on the repairs made to the chain.

Just wondering if its normal for them to be breaking routinely.

Also another question, when tightening the chain with the bar out, when it retracts it seems to loosen up is this normal??

[Ed_K]

 Thanks Skeans1, for pulling me out of the hole.

The chain stuck in the window I saw, was after the fact ten yrs ago on a 425 timbco with a ctl head.

[Firewoodjoe]

Nobody is saying it isn't dangerous. It's all dangerous. I still see no reason you have to have the cab area in danger of the saw. Tip or snow holes either one. But I guess we do it all different. I'm sure i do to but I wouldn't blame the saw chain if it hit the cab or a person. If you put your leg behind a chainsaw it will get you to. 🤷‍♂️ And those are what? 10-14,000 rpm. 

[Firewoodjoe]

Thanks Guys for the input.

I have no experience with operating this machine, its a learning curve forsure.  I will definitely keep an eye on the repairs made to the chain.

Just wondering if its normal for them to be breaking routinely.

Also another question, when tightening the chain with the bar out, when it retracts it seems to loosen up is this normal??

It tightens when the oil is supplied. And your seals may be getting bad. 

[c greenham]

Any one have any tips on the plunger rebuild.  What is the purpose of the plunger