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Peterson vs Lucas

Started by alhas, February 08, 2004, 11:30:15 AM

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woodbeard

QuotePictures of the mill?  How 'bout mill, trailer and truck.
Chainsaw too! Husqvarna?

That is definitely a good case for the blade guard. Mine is under a pile of sawdust. ::) I have been working on the double cutting thing.

I was a Ford guy until recently. Replaced it with a Toyota ;D
Also have another old Ford and older Chevy, but the Toyota is my daily driver.

Captain

That was the customer's chainsaw.  This is the day that I discovered my trailer was broken into and 2 of my Stihl saws stolen (036 Pro, 046 Mag) :(

On the upside, they are replaced with newer MS models.  The MS460 has the complete John Walker package.  What a screamer!!

Captain

Tome

Quote  Chainsaw too! Husqvarna?

That is definitely a good case for the blade guard. Mine is under a pile of sawdust. ::) I have been working on the double cutting thing.

I was a Ford guy until recently. Replaced it with a Toyota ;D
Also have another old Ford and older Chevy, but the Toyota is my daily driver.

Woodbeard,

What do you do to get your double cuts to match up?  I tried to cut a 7x9 tie today and my kerf didn't match.  I have a 8" ATS, I cut about seven inches on the left side then about two on the opposite.  Any suggestions?  

By the way, I am new at this sawmilling but I sure am enjoying the sawdust.  I cut a hickory the other day, boy was that thing tough.  Cut a lot of one by stuff trying to get some consistency, I'm getting better but a long way to go.

Thanks,
Tom

HORSELOGGER

Hey Tom ;D. You will never really get a "perfect "looking double cut intersect. If your blade is adjusted right, it should have a SLIGHT lead in to the right side of th log. This will , of course leave the left side of the blade a wee bit higher than the right, so when you finish the double cut with the left side of the blade, you get a ridge. >:( Try to split the dimension in half instead of seven inches with the right side and 3 with the left, try 5 and 5. Also a small thin metal shim at the horizontal blade adjustment bolt / stop will keep the blade a little more level. If you are going to cut a bunch of wide stuff, just readjust the blade to cut a LITTLE flatter ( reduce the lead in ) and it will make cleaner doubles. Just remember to re-set it  ;)
Heritage Horselogging & Lumber Co.
"Surgical removal of standing timber, Leaving a Heritage of timber for tommorow. "

KiwiJake

Tom, you can get the intersection line pretty near spot on (You'll never get rid of it completely, you'll be able to get it to the point where it is "just" visable only on areas of tension or knots on the board".

1)Flatten your top slab.

2)Adjust both winches 1 click down.

3)Cut into the slab about 4 inches (skimming slow) horizontally.

4)Bring the mill back in vertical.

5)Cut an additional full width horizontal (Skimming slow).

? Is there a line between the first cut and the second cut, if so this line should be just visable only on certain parts of the slab where there are knots. This means your mill is set up pretty much perfect (your double cuts will have a real minor line between them, approximately double what you see on your resurfaced transition line). You can check this by lining the left side of the horizontal blades tip to the furtherest right skimmed edge of your last skim. Basicly skimming the back cut to match the front cut, checking this without waisting any wood.

No doubt that your transition line will be around a mm, so your going to have to adjust it.

1) loosen the bolt on the ride side bottom of your "half moon" locking mechanism.

2) Wind the mid halfmoon centre bolt hex nut adjuster in (follow it with the right side bolt) so it slides the right half to the left. (Only 1 fractional 30deg turn). This should make your horizontal lock arm a little looser to lock. Once you've done this tighten the bottom bolt and relock the mid bolts togather once again.

3) Check the blade lock in horizontal by wiggling the blade if solid as a rock, it's fine. If it's too loose you'll have to wind the centre contact bolt (1/2unc) out the same 30deg turn and once again lock its locking nut.

Check the reskimming process again, the transition line will be much reduced. If you cant see it you've gone to far.
Basicly when you've got it right so its "just" visable you can adjust the halfmoon just a tweek more so it completely dissapears, like what Horselogger suggested, make sure you tweek it back when your finished all your double cuts. Check that it's right by matching the blade from front cut to back cut of your blade by reskiming.

If all's well and there is no line. Try your double cut board. I allways do the first standard cut deep as possible and the reverse cut with the remainder. It's important to note that you should always meet so that both cuts do not overlap each other more than 5mm. This is easily done by leaving about a 10mm uncut area between cuts (small support ledge). Just simply "climb"(cutting the remainder 10mm forward with the left side of the blade, holding the unit firmly)the ledge is much more visable to the sawyer this way giving an exact 5mm overlap. Wedge correctly. If it's not wedged to keep the beam off the blade the line will be from the beam sagging as its cutting.

Normally as I'm climb sawing the ledge, halfway down my offbearer twists the board sideways to prevent the blade from resawing the beam. If your by yourself you'll have to wedge the beam as you progress.

Hopefully you'll be getting some quality double cut boards. Any probs give the factory a ring and ask for Jake, I'll be glad to help you out.
Chears.

Chears.

woodbeard

I have been dropping the height down a hair on the second cut, and that seems to be doing pretty well. Horselogger is right, the line will never fully go away, so this for me is a way of minimising it without a lot of fussing around to get unattainable results. I am not sure if this technique is as easy on the ATS, though. Most of the time, what I am cutting is either for construction, or will eventually get planed, so it's not much of a big deal. I don't think the railroad will care much either. But that ol' hobo walking down the tracks might notice and say " Hmm, swingblade mill. Didn't get his cuts lined up right. Shoulda listened to that Kiwi feller. " :D If I need wide cuts where the saw cuts will be left as the finished surface, I will flatten the top of the log with the Peterson, and continue with my chainsaw mill.
Good luck,
George

Captain

Hey Jake,

Although I have not tried it yet, when double cutting, what about cutting with the LEFT side of the blade first, so the cut is completed with the right side of the blade and you have the support of the riving knife?  I also thought this procedure would potentially allow for wedging as I proceed with the double cut.  Since the material will only be about 2 1/2 inches thick and about 10 to 12 inches wide, I think I am safe without the support ledge by cutting the left side last.

I have a lot of double cuts to do this weekend in some smaller oak logs for a trailer deck, and I thought I would give it a try as I will be by myself for most of the sawing.  I just wondered if you (or anyone else) have tried it.

Captain

KiwiJake

Gidday Cap, I have tried on our 10" but it didn't give the effect that I desired as the 10" riving knife is short 4" from the tip so the difference would be minimial. On the 8" you might get a much better effect cause the knife is only two inch shorter.
I will get around to trying it and I would think it may give some benifit on the 8. Still, the line is really mostly from the board falling on the blade, even with the riving knife to help so wedging is the ideal solution. Have you got some plastic ones?

It is absolutely crucial to leave a 10-20mm uncut ledge between both cuts. Once you are at the normal operating starting point "climb" mill forward cutting the ledge, wedge the cutting side as you walk forward, effectively twisting the board off your blade.

Goodluck




Captain

Thanks Jake, that all makes sense.  Yes, I do have a pail full of plastic felling wedges in the mill trailer.  I was just trying to think of a way to accomplish the double cut with fewer trips down the log.  

I'll also give it a try and report.

Captain

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